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Items in the works: I've got a handful of things still to do short term but the list is finally getting shorter. Firstly the important items learned from the recent Moab trip would be that I need axle limiting straps and a taller spring would be ideal. I want to eliminate the HDPE spacers I've used for years and get an all-spring setup. I may also move the spring perches forward and fabricate new lower shock mounts that will provide more clearance. Still have some research to do on that front. While I was coming through Oregon I took advantage of a sale+no tax+IST coupon to walk out the door with a 12K winch for $260 bucks. Just need to swap over my old 9.5K Smittybilt synthetic rope and figure out where to remote mount the solenoid. The front suspension really isn't terrible, especially given my KYB's are approaching 10 years of age, but my roots in high speed off-road really have me wanting to build a better front end. Long term I have plans to make a LT front setup that should fit the bill very nicely but it'll be a ways off. For now there are a set of motorsport coilover struts that should work with the Nissan suspension components after a few changes. I think the weakest link of the whole front setup is the lower control arm mounts and overall method of stamped sheet metal manufacturing. A set of chromoly tube arms with through-bolt mounts and the motorsport coilover struts would be pretty slick and get me closer to the machine I want. I'm sure there are a few bits I've missed but this should be mostly up to date now. A few pics from the recent Moab trip with @hawairish

Forum has been restored and secured for now. Further safeguards will be put in place soon. In the coming weeks software updates will also take place. An exact timeline has not yet been determined, but some of this work may result in the forum being offline temporarily.

I have not yet been given an actual cause for this nearly week long outage, but after spending hours on the phone with the host company today, repeatedly reminding them that they had assured the site would be back up before this past weekend, here we are back up and running... finally! edit: Turns out the host utilizes AWS facilities, so this was related to the major AWS outage that occurred at the same time. Don't know why they couldn't just say that from the beginning.

Falling behind on updates again... My guys' trip to Moab has come and gone, but unfortunately the truck was not ready in time for it. I still made it up there and had a great trip riding shotgun in Towndawg's truck (recently fitted with 4:1 t-case gears and a rear ARB locker...front ARB didn't get installed in time). Long story short, I was able to get the truck out of the garage and around the block a few times, but the steering and alignment didn't feel right, and the gear box started leaking. I had already rebuilt the power steering lines again (they had sprung a leak a 2nd time) so I have little confidence in their ability at the moment, but they seem to be holding now. This time around I snugged the fittings up a little less thinking maybe I was over-tightening them and compromising the liner. But frankly, if they're this sensitive to assembly, I probably don't want them. For now, they'll do. Parts are on order to rebuild the gear box, which I probably should have done in the first place. Beyond that, the setup has not been tested at all...but at least it drives now! Here were the finishing pieces of the build... The driveshaft adapter turned out great: Got the new rear 5.13 (41:8 = 5.125) gears installed. That took a lot of effort, though. I've surely mentioned it before, but the H233 used thick rings/spacers/washers of different thicknesses to set pinion height and preload, and practically all of those pieces are either no longer available, or several bucks each (and you don't really know which piece you'd need unless you have the proper setup tools). It didn't use traditional shims, and even then, there aren't really any good options available due to odd metric sizes. Fortunately, the new pinion gear sat high, so I was able to grind down OE spacer pieces on a flat belt sander. Unfortunately, it was a lot of trial-and-error to dial in the height (a lot of pressing pieces on and pulling pieces off), and I basically took the pieces down to the minimum factory dimensions to get it as close as I could. It sucked and took a lot of time, but the pattern is good. I also managed to strip some threads on the bracket that holds the actuator piston for my TJM, so I had to pull that off to weld some nuts on get some threads. I got the switches wired up for the overhead console the other week. I ran some 8-conductor wiring up the passenger A-pillar and into the engine bay. Six of the wires are for the overhead panel, and the other 2 I'll wire up for powering a USB port for the dash cam eventually. I ended up drawing ACC power, ground, and illumination from the compass module. Opened it up, soldered on leads, and crimped on terminals and harnesses. The panel is for a Patrol, and while the color isn't a perfect match for my gray "K" trim, it's close enough for me and I'm super happy to finally put it to use. Things are wired up in a way that's consistent with their usage; i.e., you can't engage the front locker unless the rear locker is engaged, and you can't engage the sway bar disconnect or rear locker until the compressor is on. Remote Air is for the tire inflation setup; it can either hold the air, deflate, or inflate. I was not able to get the compressor, relays, or solenoids wired up until last night, and tonight I needed to sort out some leaks from having to shuffle around my setup. These are not the finished pics, but close enough for now. I opted to use some modular solenoids that stack together instead of the ARB style solenoids...that 4-solenoid modular unit costs less than one ARB solenoid, but was a little tough to find. That funky rubber boot thing is an adjustable pressure sensor switch that I was hoping to use for the tire inflation (Remote Air) switch, so that it would stop inflating at a set PSI. Unfortunately, it's so sensitive that it'll just flutter at the set temperature and cause the compressor to keep cycling. So, I'll probably just retain it as a safety cut-off. Also determined tonight that gauge is garbage...it's way off. Lastly, this is how it sat as of yesterday before a powerwash. I spy something SASsy.

Pulled it out to give it a wash today.

I just stumbled across some info on the 190F thermostat. It does exist, but Nissan warns of cats and dogs living together if it's used in a VG. The problem with the 190F thermostat is that the VG does not run at the temperature of its thermostat. The VG's thermostat is located on the lower rad hose, the cold end of the system, so the engine actually runs 10-15C hotter than its thermostat. Nissan's target for max engine temp is 90C (194F). 76.5C (170F) plus 15C is right on target at 91C. 82C (180F) plus 15C is pushing it at 97C, but apparently Nissan was comfortable with this, because NTB94-020 recommends swapping in a 180F thermostat to help the heater keep up with winters on Hoth (like Adam did), and (as Adam noted) they later spec'd 180F thermostats for the VG33E. 88C (190F) plus 15C is 103C, and apparently that's out of Nissan's comfort zone, because they warn that it could cause overheating, detonation, engine damage, computer trouble, and a voided warranty. The 190 thermostat was used in earlier (pre-VG) Nissan engines. They had the same 90C/194F max temp target, but their thermostats were on the upper rad hose, so they didn't have that 10-15C offset to factor in. TL;DR: 170 is stock, 180 is OK, and 190 is not recommended.

Changed out the front axle shafts for the Trakmotive extended travel units. Much beefier than OE and they come with the Thermoplastic boots. That said- they skimp on paint or any kid of coating so they rust quickly. I suggest immediately painting them if you get a set.

The rear arms I built years ago got an axle side change to some beefy heims in recent years. I'll start by saying I don't recommend them and will be changing them to Johnny Joints in the near future. They are super high maintenance and started squeaking within a year of install. They're probably fine for a trail toy or someone who just doesn't care about the noise. The performance was impressive but not worth it in the end. I started by media blasting the arms I built to get rid of the damage from DOT liquid de-icer's used in recent years. Then painted everything and applied a healthy layer of anti-seize. I kept the body-side rod ends poly to provide some insulation from noise and vibration and the combo worked well prior to the heims making noise. At this time I made a driveshaft spacer from 6061 AL to allow me to push my axle further back into the center of the wheel arch. Pretty easy job and solved an issue with lifted R50's that most folks don't account for when going higher. At some point during all this I started rehabbing a spare HB233 housing for the eventual rear disc brake setup that I picked up from @hawairish. I had the axle housing media blasted and coated it in POR-15. My OE axle shafts needed to be turned down to fit the WD rotors but later models apparently don't need that modification as the axle flanges were smaller in diameter. All new seals, bearings, rotors, pads and refreshed calipers. When I eventually get the axle done it'll be a short period of down time since I should have everything ready to swap in.

I said goodbye to my old set of KM2's on vintage mags and K02's on Tacoma alloys. Picked up a new full set, including a matching spare, of KM3's on some 15x10 AR alloys. With the impending long distance road trip the 8 year old rubber was a liability and it was time for a refresh. While I was at it I installed a set of OEM Nissan manual hubs that @hawairish sent my way. Much nicer kit than the Warn units I was running and they only need a 1/4 turn to engage. Gave the refurbished bumpers a quick coat of rattle can black to clean up the truck and get ready for the Southwest trip. I installed some universal mud flaps since the OE units wouldn't clear the tires to complete the look and so far they've held up really well. They come without brackets or mounting holes so it left a lot of room for interpretation but overall I think they're a great solution for my needs.

The entire cooling and belt drive system was refreshed. New radiator, pump, thermostat and housing, hoses, belts, power steering pump, alt, idlers, fan bearing bracket, fan and clutch. During my repairs I've been finding that many components, brackets, bolts etc...they're all succumbing to rust. I started ordering full sets of all bolt and nut sizes/pitches of yellow zinc JIS hardware to have on hand as I go through my truck and other projects. Additionally, i found that electrolysis is a great way to clean up super rusty parts prior to painting.

The universal sliders I've been holding onto for as long as I've lived here finally got mounted. Again, thanks to the brilliant engineering that @hawairish cooked up I mounted them via the OE locations using a set of QX4 step rail brackets and the adapter plates that he generously designed and cut out at his lab. They're robust, can easily support the weight of the truck and completely bolt-on. The truck also got a complete set of 2nd hand Coastal bumpers with a swing out that was conveniently located locally. The kit was professionally welded at a SoCal race shop so the fit up and quality was superb. Just needed a respray and some minor cosmetic repair. I bought the correct color matched silver to paint them but the window to paint outdoors here is very short and i have not managed to get the time in the 3 years since owning this set. I wasn't much of a fan of the Coastal options so I shaved most of what was on the bumper with the intention of 3D printing my own AUX/Fog light housings when the time comes around to painting them. For now its just clean and simple. An element of the Coastal design that seems pretty wild to me is the disregard for the power steering cooling line. These trucks use an aluminum tube that runs directly across the lower radiator support that the coast kit neglects, forcing users to bend it up out of the way. I opted to run a remote oil cooler next to my trans cooler and avoid what could be a disaster on the trail from a bump or collision.

The truck now has 4.6 gears. Initially I installed a SuperPacked LSD rated at 236.5 ft/lbs of breakaway that @hawairish built but after driving it for a while I found it wasn't really appropriate for my intended uses and the wet PNW environment. Would be great for a trail toy or sport truck application. So I ended up going with ARB lockers front and rear. The front hasn't made it into the truck yet but is on the bench as the next major item. The truck is already plumbed for it so I just need to finish the install into the housing and stuff it under the truck. @hawairish hooked it up with a slick bracket that he cooked up for mounting my old ARB single in the engine bay. I had originally mounted it in the rear passenger cubby and it worked well for the last 10 years in that location serving the sole purpose of inflating my tires after trail runs but with the ARB's it was time to relocate. I installed the switch panel that @hawairish and I ordered a while back that replaces the sunglass holder to run everything- Compressor, front and rear lockers, light bar, trail lights and AUX backup lights. Super stoked with the result.

Long time with no update! The truck is back from a recent trip to Moab with @hawairish and his build has inspired me to bring this thread up to speed... The truck has seen lots of trips and a handful of upgrades. Most notably is the rebuilt trans. Had some water intrusion in 2024 that prompted me to have it professionally rebuilt with a couple minor upgrades for durability and longevity. I paired that with a set of low-range gears for the transfer case that @hawairish helped make happen. Legend has it these gears are made by the same group that manufactures OEM gears but I have no proof so take that with a grain of salt. They are manufactured in Japan and have proven themselves in Moab but the install had a few hiccups that leave me curious how others have done this DIY in a garage setting. The large 4WD shaft required machining to match the OEM length otherwise it binds on the case. Not a problem as I chucked it in the lathe and made the needed modifications but unless you can machine the case or the shaft I would say this would be a show stopper. I drilled and tapped the output shaft so that I can run a SYE in the future while I had the case apart then reassembled everything and delivered it to the shop performing the rebuild so they could install everything and get the truck back up.

When I helped a friend swap the trans in his S10 Blazer, we just shot a spot of paint on each torsion bar adjuster. We used a different color on either side so we couldn't mix up the parts. Then when we put it back together, we just lined up the paint marks. Worked great.

When removing your torsion bar X-member, measure the tail of the adjuster bolts , that way you can get your suspension pretty much where it was in height, then you only need a small fine tune if necessary.

Not tearing the carpet is an incredible feat! I've definitely pulled the manual trans out of my 93 without cutting/removing the Y-pipe, but I did have the torsion bar crossmember and front diff out. Was a bit of a puzzle to get the transfer case tail housing down past the fixed crossmember, but it is doable. Front diff is very annoying to get back in because of the weird balance, but torsion bars and crossmember are pretty easy, even if a few rusted bolts give out (as they did for me). For posterity's sake, pulling the Y-pipe down off the manifolds early is very nice. With that and the trans mount disconnected, the motor mounts allow quite a bit of forward/backward tilt which can make reaching those top bell housing bolts easier. For install, I found it handy to cut the heads off a couple of spare bell housing bolts and thread them into the block. Definitely not necessary but helped a bit with aligning trans and engine. Also, since the engine can move so much it can be hard to eyeball the alignment. Having someone to watch from a wheel well while you wiggle and push is very nice. Not sure if any of this is helpful at all, but good luck!

When I bought my 92', it had many issues. One of which was one of the rear disk rotors was ground down, for whatever reason, halfway through the rotor material on one side. I didn't think much of it until the calipers seized. I rebuilt them using brake fluid as the lubricant to reassemble them. That's what I was taught years ago, and I have been doing it ever since. Every 2 years or so, for the past 10 years, I have been tearing apart the rear calipers, unseizing the piston, cleaning the rust out and reassembling using the same process of using brake fluid to lubricate the assembly process.... When the calipers were seizing, the symptoms were pretty obvious sometimes. A smoking rotor is one of them.... One of the things that threw me off a couple of times that I didn't really put 2 and 2 together on for years, was that the ABS light would occasionally light up and stay lit when the calipers were starting to seize, and would go away for a while after the rebuild. I was making an assumption that it's old electronics and mechanical gizmos that are starting to fail. The last time I tore apart the calipers, I reassembled them around the dust boot with a one-time-use packet of synthetic brake caliper grease as recommended by one of my co-workers. I'm not entirely positive that is it's the intended use for it, but it's what I used. Ever since then, the calipers have been working flawlessly and the ABS light no longer lights past the initial POST (Power on Self Test). What I think was happening is that the Mechanical gizmo on the frame was throwing a fault when it couldn't push fluid. So... With this observation, maybe that ABS light you have on your dash being lit isn't a symptom of your module or gizmo starting to fail. Maybe it's a symptom to something else.... in my case at least. Just thought I would share one of my experiences that I learned over more than a hot minute....

Well, this weekend was very productive. Wasn't able to roll it out, but we're getting close. Last update I mentioned the axle was being done. It's officially done and back on the truck. The bulk of the weekend was getting the axle back under the truck and slowly completing the final assembly. Right now, everything's torqued down and ready to go. Axle's centered, thing's aligned as best as I can get them with my eyechrometers. Got it to the point where the truck is resting on the axle, and tires were slapped on for a while. Still needed to tweak the steering stabilizer a bit. I finished up the mount v3 today and it's finally in a position where I don't think it's going to contact anything. Also figured I'd work on the center caps while some parts baked (powder coating). Limit straps, driveshaft adapter, and custom brake lines delivering tomorrow, among other small goodies. Been waiting on the brake lines to start the ring and pinion swap in the rear, so hopefully I get started on that mid-week.

I've done 15,000km on my reconditioned transmission using ATF dex III and had no issues. The gent who recommended it has been building these gearboxes for decades. I dismissed this at first and put 80w90 in it, then 75W/90, and couldn't select gears when cold. Now it shifts great.

I've heard of people jacking up one side/parking on a slope so the fill hole is higher. Might be worth a shot.

Time to necro this post. Found the source of the rattle... loose springs on the clutch disc. I guess at low rpm they would rattle around in there until about 2k. New clutch is in and no more rattle!!!

Today had enough progress that it deserved its own comment. After spending a couple weeks designing a few ideas that gave me some adjustability, decided the other day to just get on with it and make a static mount in what I seemed like the right spot. Pretty straight-forward at this point. This is the first mock-up with a tire...finally! There's so much space in there, that it makes the 2.0 coilovers seem puny. But hey, no more farting around with the stupid coil bucket on the McPherson strut! There's about 4" of space between the springs and tires, and about 2-3" from the inner fender. The first two pics in this post show a different attachment method, but this will be the end result. There will be a strut 'ring' atop the strut tower with bolts welded in, then the coilover mount attaches from underneath. This way I won't need to remove all the crap above the strut towers to change anything. After getting the mounts all welded up, I decided to see if the spring selection was the right one. So, time to see if it can support itself! Ride height compression... And so, I have coilover mounts! Right now this is about 1.5" taller than I predicted. I'll eventually put a bumper and winch on to pull things down another 0.75" or so and hopefully they'll settle the rest. I can't lower it any more unless I change springs, so I'm going to see how this does. Overall, I'm satisfied. I'll eventually make some changes to the rear suspension to level things out better, but I think I'll have some squat for a while. Painted the steering links today, too. Panhard and radius arms refreshed with bushings and paint the other week. In this pic, the axle is supporting the truck, so I must be doing something right! The axle is at ride height so I have some pretty good clearance.

@Lock Glad you found this useful! No ban on posting links. Amayama is a great source for these and many other parts that are difficult to acquire or not available here. In fact, I actually have two open orders with them right now. I have purchased clutch pieces from them in the past, though at some point the supply was exhausted, particularly for the thicker pieces. Looks like there are many in the UAE at higher/normal costs, but it's the less expensive supply from Japan that was always questionable or long lead times. As for the ramp-angle LSDs, those were in Patrols. There's not really as much of a difference between those styles and these in terms of functionality, though. The spider gears in ours will apply outward force on the side gears to compress the clutch pack, because the clutch pack rests directly on the side gear. In the Patrol units, the clutch pack rests entirely on those inner housings, which compress the pack when the cross-shaft ramps up on them, which means the side gears might not exert significantly on the housing (or it's a combination of both). In both cases, there's varying outward force when differential action occurs. Might also be the case where less, but bigger, clutch pieces has about as much friction as more, but smaller, clutch pieces. Speculation in the absence of factory specs and dimensions. That all said, I'd surely rather have the Patrol units because of the beef factor they add, but I'd be curious to know if it's a drastically better solution that what we have available. Just another thing I wish they'd have here.

Not able to upload photos with insert image 2" AC coils with 4" SFD, kyb struts, missing link, LR RKB101060.C8 about 6 inch rear lift, Bilstein 5125 33-185569, Warn Hubs, -3.75 backspacing, 33x12.5R15 Duratrac Wrangler, tire carrier with full size spare https://imgur.com/gallery/AIvp4br

Alright, got it through emissions and re-registered! Only 8 months late... Last night I installed a non-fouler on the downstream driver's O2 sensor and it seemed to do the trick. Not only did the P0430 not move to stored to screw up my day, but it's also no longer in pending. Steering was a little more squirrelly today. I need to get to the bottom of that. But otherwise, the truck is operational. Hoping to do a shakedown run soon.

Rat Trap's steering wheel was starting to get gross. Hand sweat, sun damage, and the previous owner's lung darts had left the outer rim cracked, turning brown, and starting to smell. Then I remembered that aftermarket steering wheels are a thing. Maybe the minitruckers are onto something, I thought. I figured I'd keep things simple by going with a wheel and a column adapter from the same company. Grant's website showed an adapter kit for these trucks, #3560, so that was a good start. I had a look through their catalog and decided on their #1160. Simple, black on black, leather grip. No rainbow chrome, no trucker babes, no flames. http://www.grantproducts.com/images/product-images/lg/1160.jpg Summit had it well below list price, so I ordered it from there. They didn't have the column adapter, and Grant's website's checkout didn't work, so I ordered that from elsewhere. The folks I ordered the column adapter from emailed me the next day to say that they didn't actually have one. I checked around, and found a bunch of other retailers listing them as discontinued or out of stock. The few who claimed to have them either didn't get back to me or confirmed that they couldn't get them either. Grant's site also listed a fancy billet adapter, #5560, but I couldn't find one of those, either. There are a bunch of cheap D21 column adapters on eBay. They're all drilled for six-bolt wheels. And the #1160 wheel I had ordered, which by this point was already in the mail, is five-bolt. Nissan Nut's page suggested that Grant #3596 would fit instead. I found one on eBay. It came in an "American Products Company" box. (Made in Taiwan, naturally.) It doesn't say Grant on it anywhere, but it looks just like the Grant kits, the splines are correct, and the three-bolt pattern matches the spacer. Is it a knockoff? Is this Grant's own off-brand? It's what I could get. The wheel came with a spacer. The spacer adapts between Grant's three-on-1.75" pattern (which the column adapter uses, as do some of their simpler wheels) to their five-on-2.75" pattern, which their "Signature Series" wheels (including this one) use. It's made from welded steel, and it feels sturdy. Unfortunately, it spaced the wheel too far back, to where I had to reach for the lights and wipers. It's also stuffed into a rubber sleeve, which doesn't fit it very well. Flipping it around doesn't help, either. Either it's so loose at the front that you can see the metal part of the spacer through the wheel, or it's so loose at the back that you can get your finger in between them. And it's tight enough in the middle that it gets stretched into a polygon by the spokes of the spacer. I suspect its primary function was to sell the billet adapter kits. Naked spacer in the middle, misshapen rubber thing on the right. On the left is the Forever Sharp MG15-B billet spacer that I used instead. It's half an inch shorter, which fixed the gap to the stalks, and it looks way better than the floppy rubber turtleneck. It actually looks quite nice! It also solved a dumb problem with the column adapter, which is that you need a special three-bolt puller to remove it. The Forever Sharp spacer is drilled for both 5 on 2.75" and 6 on 2.75", so you can bolt a standard wheel puller across two of the six-pattern holes to pop the hub assembly off the splines. (The holes are threaded #10-32, same as the Grant spacer.) Either spacer goes in between the column adapter and the nut. Unfortunately this leaves the end of the steering shaft slightly short of the end of the nut. I don't think it's going anywhere, but, yeah, I don't love that. I have yet to decide if it bothers me enough to take it back apart and do something about it, but I'm leaning towards swapping that nut for one that doesn't have a washer attached to it. The turn signal cancel mechanism fought me a little bit. The APC column adapter has two holes for roll pins, which take the place of the tabs on the back of the stock wheel. The pins aren't long enough to hit the cancel lever on the switch if you push them in all the way, which I found out the hard way. The second time, I installed them about a quarter inch into the column adapter. That sorta got them working, but, strangely, only in one direction. I figured the pins were just a little too close to the center, so they weren't engaging the cancel lever properly. To fix this, I removed the turn signal stalk (as pictured below), stuck a 1/4" extension in through that hole there, and used that as a punch to gently persuade the pins outwards a little. This might not be the right way to do it, but the signals cancel perfectly now. Actually, they cancel a little better than they did with the stock wheel. Round and square dash have different turn signal cancel mechanisms. Square dash has a single cancel lever on the switch, and two tabs on the back of the wheel, spaced about 120* apart from each other. Round dash has two separate cancel levers on the switch, with a space between them, so Nissan moved the tabs on the wheel out to 180* to account for that space. (Square dash wheel on top, round on bottom.) The APC hub has the 180* spacing of the round-dash, but my truck is square-dash, so the steering wheel has to turn 90* for the pins to hit the cancel lever (I think stock is about 60). I thought the factory setup was a bit trigger-happy, so I consider this an improvement. That rounded sheet metal cover came with the column adapter, and it doesn't cover it very well. It's got a pretty big gap to the clamshell. My clamshell is a redneck abomination of my own devising, so I can't say for sure that it wouldn't match the original clamshell a little better, but I know the stock wheel was not gapped out that far. Maybe the correct kit comes with a longer cover? I'll probably make up a new one that actually fits at some point, but today is not that day. I've read some complaints about the horn buttons on Grant's 3-bolt wheels. This wheel doesn't use that design. The five-bolt wheels use a self-contained horn button, which friction-fits into the trim ring. It's got two spade terminals on the back for the wires. One wire comes from the column adapter (which uses a piece of circuit board for the slip ring), and the other goes to a ring terminal, which I put under one of the three bolts holding the spacer to the column adapter. This system works just fine with the factory horn contact on the column, and I didn't have to modify or adjust anything to get it working properly. Sadly they don't have any amusing replacement horn buttons, or even a Nissan one. Just domestic brands, their own name, blank, or "4x4," in case you need reminding of that sort of thing. I've driven around a bit since installing the new wheel. The leather grip feels nice, and it doesn't have a rancid mixture of hand sweat and lung dart residue festering inside of it, which is a welcome change. The smaller diameter clears my knees better, but it's not so small that I feel like I stole the wheel off the riding mower. And I like the look--it looks upgraded, without looking like I've mistaken Rat Trap for a racecar. That said, the fit and finish could be better. There's a little glue residue on the spokes, the leather wrap ends closer to the spoke slot on one side than the other, and that one out-of-place white stitch at the bottom bugs me a little. The horn trim ring has a garf under the paint, and came with some paint scratched off around one of the screw holes--screw holes which mysteriously don't exist in Grant's product picture. The picture conveniently omits the spacer with the can koozy around it, too. So, yeah. This turned out to be a bit more of a can of worms than I had hoped, and if I was going to do it all over again, I don't know that I'd do all the same things. Now that it's all said and done, though, I like it, and it's staying. One last thing: I did reach out to Grant's customer support about the adapter. Grant's tech support guy confirmed that the #3560 kit was out of stock, but said he'd managed to track one down. (Naturally I had already ordered the other kit by the time I got that email.) So if you need a Grant column adapter, try their customer support--they may be able to hook you up.

I tested a 192 ° on my VG30E last winter, and indeed it heats up faster and stays more stable on short trips. On the other hand, the summer it rises quickly in temperature if your cooling system is not nickel. Personally, I returned to 180 °, a good compromise in my opinion. Mini Militia App Lock

It's 100 percent for the EGR, to connect to the BPT valve. Goes in this hole here. Then there is this little disc thing it that connects to that pipe with short 1.5" piece of rubber hose.

I rebuilt mine in 2023. I had the service manual and followed that, but also found the below video and follow-up assembly videos the most useful. I also downloaded the below website, which went offline but is still available on Internet Archive. https://web.archive.org/web/20170224101545/http://beergarage.com/PathTransmission1Remove.aspx The Pathfinder trans is just the 300ZX trans with a pull clutch and different (replaceable) rear on the 4WD models. Means for 01-04 we have double-cone synchros on both 2nd and 3rd. The bearing kits (BK240) are all the same for this model of transmission, it's the kits with synchros that are different (which you generally can't get anyway). I couldn't get the complete kit with bearings and synchros at the time, so I just bought the bearing kit ZMBK240, identified each synchro part # from Amayama and purchased them separately. You might find like me that you can order and pay for the full kit, then they'll refund you and say it's not available. Given their ages now I wouldn't install a used transmission without first opening it up. I bought my used trans from B&R and when arrived it was full of mud and wood chips and rust as it was obviously left outside in the rain. It 100% had to be cleaned and parts replaced. When in there I found the reverse gear missing a tooth, the reverse gear design is weak and its synchro doesn't work well so I replaced all those gears too. Apparently you should never put a 300ZX/Pathfinder manual into reverse until you've stopped and waited a second for the gears to slow down. I replaced all the synchros because you wouldn't reuse them condition unknown. I also replaced the smaller inner gear bearings that don't come with the kit and are ignored - the new updated versions were minus one needle, probably for better oil flow. Shifts are smooth as butter, well worth the time. If you're interested I could put up a post on my rebuild. Pro tip, I used a toaster oven to heat up then drop the 'press fit' gears in place, made it so much easier and I don't feel like a caveman hammering on precision parts.

Long overdo update - turns out the source of my intermittent front passenger wheel-area screeching was the brake. Pad was completely gone, and I pushed it a little too long, ended up melting the pad's backing plate and blowing out a piston in the caliper. Good thing I was already planning to replace the front rotors... it was a bear of a job but got it done, and it finally stops reliably, doesn't pull anymore, and doesn't make that terrible noise! Next step in restoration/repair, new muffler.

There are actually two switches on the brake pedal, but you're correct in assessing that if the brake lights work then the switch is good, because the AT interlock is triggered by the same switch. The other switch is for the cruise control system. The likely culprit is the park position switch on the back of the shifter assembly. When the shifter is in the Park position, it closes the ground leg of the shifter solenoid that unlocks the shifter when the brake pedal is pressed. If you supply 12V to the solenoid (also on the shifter assembly) and it latches, then the solenoid is good. You can check for continuity on the switch. In my case, my truck's previous owner tucked a chunk of tubing into the shifter override (the hole you can stick a screwdriver in to manually get the shifter out of park) because the park switch had failed. I found a replacement switch on Digikey (.com) for a couple bucks and soldered it in. You can use the tubing approach in a pinch, being fully aware that it will allow the truck to be shifted out of Park without a key and without the brake pedal being depressed. I'd just keep a screwdriver or tool in the truck until it's fixed. Don't forget there's also an interlock cable that provides mechanical functionality. The shifter moving from park also requires a key in the ignition and turned to ON. It's unlikely it's the problem, but you'd want to confirm that the correct slack/length is set where the cable connects to the shifter assembly. Full details are in the Factory Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. Check the Automatic Transmission (AT) chapter, "A/T SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM" section after all the diagnostic code stuff.

Sweet. Always nerve wracking firing that up after doing this job lol.

SUCCESS! https://imgur.com/a/qWyHVX8

Thank you, @Slartibartfast and @gamellott! I will source those connectors, once I take inventory of what I need. Disassembly is complete as of this AM, taking Heads to the machine shop for pressure test today. No obvious blown gasket, but the PS Head between #3 and #5 smells like burnt oil. I also found a bunch of coolant in #6 which makes no sense to me...need to figure that out. Good news is that all cylinder walls look cherry and only minimal carbon on pistons. She definitely deserves a refresh, I'm happy with what I'm seeing so far. Also, almost no rust anywhere - other than EGR and exhaust manifold heat shield screws - I broke 2 off. I got lower EGR tube nut off after a bottle of penetrating fluid, 60 secs of heating the manifold and sledge hammering a wrench connected to the nut. And 3 beers.

This is your Rear Windshield Wiper Motor, you will need to remove your rear wiper arm and then there will be a plastic nut that you will need to remove from around the wiper motor shaft which will then allow you to remove it from your R50 hatch. Chris.

Spark but no fire on carb cleaner suggests it's either massively flooded, or the timing is way off. Do you have a timing light? The ignition timing should not have changed if you haven't moved the distributor, assuming everything's as it should be behind the timing cover. I'm also assuming the last guy had it set up properly, given it ran before you opened it up. Confirm that you've got 40 teeth between cam dimples, 43 cam to crank. If you had the sprockets off to do the cam seals, confirm that you reinstalled the sprockets on the correct sides. Left and right are marked from the driver's perspective, not the mechanic's. I've never had an issue with it, though I have heard of people washing the oil off the cylinder walls by using too much. Some starting fluid has oil in it, that's probably better for extended use if you have to run it on spray. I mostly just use it to make sure a small engine's worth buying a carburetor for. I don't know if it's the ether or the stuff they add to stop people from huffing it, but starting fluid gives me a headache real quick. Not that carb cleaner is healthy, but it doesn't hit me like that. I see guys on Youtube using brake cleaner, and they seem to get away with it, but I don't want to know what's coming out the tailpipe when that stuff burns!

+1 on this. If you have all three, check timing, especially if you've had the distributor out. It's easy to install it at top dead exhaust instead of top dead compression. I've done that. Might also be worth running codes. The computers in these are not very perceptive, but you should get a code if it hasn't heard from the dizzy in however many seconds of cranking, or if there's no ignition pulse to the coil. Either way, that would give you a road map for what to check next.

To follow through... I put John Deere HyGard (standard, not Low-Vis) in my 2000 Toyota Echo this week and have done a little driving around town so far. Initial impressions: it shifts really nice, the stick moves more freely in neutral, it *seems like the car accelerates a little more "freely." It's been quite warm this week but we're getting another cold snap so I'll get a chance to see how it feels on an actual cold morning. The oil I drained out of the transmission looked decent, it wasn't utterly filthy or runny or milky. I have no idea what fluid it was or when it was last changed to be honest. It was obviously much thicker than the HyGard but I didn't know if it was spec fluid or regular 90 weight or what. It was also low, drained out 56ozs and poured in 72ozs before it dribbled out the hole. I've owned this little car for about 5 years and put over 40K miles on it so I'm pretty familiar with how it feels while driving in various conditions It's all seat-of-the-pants at this point but I'll say I'm pleased with how it feels. My son is gonna try it his Pathfinder and I'll report back again. His is grindy going into 2nd when it's cold so that'll be a good test.

There is power to 87a, but it works opposite to 87. If there's power to the coil, 30 and 87 connect. If there's no power to the coil, 30 and 87a connect. This is wasted in most circuits (which is why many relays only have four pins), but it can be useful in some applications. If you had halos or markers or something that you wanted on only when the headlights weren't, you'd wire those to 87a.

I think I figured it out. I went back and started over. I went with a 5 pin relay so I wouldn’t have to put 2 wires together. My plan was to use pins 87 and 87a. I assumed that 87a would be powered up the same as 87. Apparently that’s not how it works. 87a has no power when the relay is activated. That is where I went wrong. Lesson learned.

People have swapped VG33s into turbo 300ZXs. Find their build threads, copy their homework. Should be easier for you given the engine's already in the truck, so you don't have to mess with the pan and whatnot. Not sure what options are available for tuning the R50 ECU or how best to get it running off a standalone. I don't think I've seen a turbo 3.3 R50. 2milehi turbo'd a VG30 WD21 (and sold it to snowboard419). There was a guy on here who turbo'd a 3.5 R50, but IIRC his transmission was not happy about it. There's also a guy on the Farcebook page (not sure if he's on here?) who's got some crazy super turbo system going on, on an Xterra if I remember right.

Failing at startup is probably the best case scenario for not bending a valve. You might've gotten lucky. Don't know that I'd bet a grand on that, though. Before throwing a belt on it, I would stick a borescope down the plug holes and see if you can find any obvious valve marks on the pistons. I did that on a VW once, told us real quick that the engine wasn't worth messing with. (That one let go at highway speed.) If you don't see valve marks on the pistons, throw a belt at it (+1 for doing it yourself!) and see if it hits on all six.

After a good wash. The paint is pretty bad, I think it's been rattle can touched up a few times. But the body is remarkably straight, one dent in the rear bumper and a simple in the front if the hood. Removed the bent up roof rack and took this picture so we could noodle on a design for a custom roof rack. It's sloped down in the front pretty good, we've since adjusted the rotation bars to sit close to level. Well... An unknown server error limits my upload to 51kb so I'll try to get this and the next pic uploaded another time...

[A proper] FSM-worthy explanation as always, slart, thank you!

I'm honestly not sure when ABS started in these, and whether it was a trim thing or a federal thing. The part numbers for the ABS valve block go back to '90, but it's not in the '90 manual. If yours has it, the valve block is under the truck, on the inside of the passenger's side frame rail, sorta under the passenger's seat area IIRC. Should be an aluminum casting with a bleeder, an electrical plug, and two brake lines going into it. The control computer for mine was under the driver's seat, but IIRC '92 (and earlier?) had it under the stereo. The sensor reads from the pinion flange on the rear axle. If yours doesn't have it, you're not missing much. All it does is release the rear brakes if it sees them lock up. There's no pulse action, no pump, no improved stopping distance. It's just trying to stop the rear end from stepping out and potentially rolling the truck. I guess if road conditions are bad enough to allow the rear brakes to lock, and the driver doesn't know to pump the pedal to regain control, then it's safer to nerf the rears, keep it straight, and take the hit in the crumple zone.

Alright, bit of an update... First off, I did not meet my goal of having it rolling by the end of Feb. Maybe this weekend, we'll see. Right now, the axle has been removed from the truck for hopefully the last time. Pulled it off to finish welding the bump stop pads, steering stabilizer mount, whatever touch-ups, and then paint. To that extent, axle work is DONE! Will get some pics when it's daylight. The last couple weeks have been super busy. Almost every day and/or night that I can. Updates... Finished the air conversion for the sway bar disconnect. Big thanks again to @TowndawgR50 for making the piston rod and all his support on this project! Have yet to test it on the truck (my OBA setup has been pulled for re-work) but it's ready to go. Not sure I showed this previously, but I made it so that I don't have to pull parts from the engine bay to access the strut tower/mount hardware any more. Now I can just unbolt the upper coilover mount from underneath. Maybe one day I'll pursue a strut tower brace. Finished the brake caliper mounts! Well...almost. Still need to powder coat the RH side, but the LH side is done. This f$kc!ng pic just reminded me right now that I forgot to grind the knuckle for clearance to install the lower caliper bolt, which I needed to switch out to socket bolts due to the space. Well, guess that's happening tomorrow and some repainting... ... I did have a bit of a setback with the power steering setup. I was mocking up the steering stabilizer and had the truck running with the wife turning the wheel so I could change for clearances. *SPLOOSH* ATF spraying all over. The aftermath... After assessing the failure, I deemed it operator error on two faults: Despite being as gentle as I could to push the braided sheathing back using a small screwdriver per instructions, I must've weakened the PTFE liner enough. I must've pushed the braids too far back with insufficient overlap on the ferrule. So, I can tell you that ATF absolutely sucks to clean up. It is a nasty, nasty chemical. (And for those wondering, yes, I am using ATF as my power steering fluid...it's what is spec'd.) That $hit got everywhere. I cleared the space out and power washed the engine and concrete shortly after this happened and the engine is still dropping ATF in spots...and I only worsened the mess during the repair process. I can't wait to get the truck out of the garage to really hose it down! Anyway, I ponied up for a proper tool from JEGS that pushes the braid down uniformly and to the correct depth. I was reluctant to drop $50 initially, but I paid the price and then some for not getting it in the first place. I pulled all the lines (two; four fittings total) to inspect and redo them. My original fitting installs were showing a little bit of fatigue that likely would've let to failure again. I have a little more confidence this time around having used the tool. Here's the new line, shown on the concrete where the spill occurred as indicated by the silhouette where my foam mat was. This was the direction the steering stabilizer was heading before the busted line: After doing all the other work on steering angles and such, this is basically the only place I had left to mount it. It hangs about as low as the axle tube, so it's not really eating any more ground clearance, but it will likely be the first thing to be struck. I tried to keep the brackets simple, and while this piece worked great, the plate came too close to the diff cover for my liking. I went with a different design that rotates the plate around (the u-bolts have plenty of clearance) and allows me to slide the bracket a couple inches towards the passenger side just in case. Pics to follow. ... I received my front driveshaft! Ebay special for $300, custom length for my project, intended for "hack-n-tap" Jeep applications where they do a slip-yoke eliminator (SYE). Double-cardan unit with a probably generic Spicer 211229X/Neapco N2-83-388X flange and uses Spicer 1310 series u-joints. The TX10 flange is equivalent to Spicer 2-2-1309. They're fairly similar, dimensionally, but an adapter is needed. I fired up my CNC router to make a mock-up adapter based on Nissan Nut's version. He pockets one side to hide the hardware used to attach it to the TX10, and then has threaded holes bolts to attach the Spicer flange to it. I eventually realized either it's not a good design, or I still can't understand half the stuff he writes. Probably both. There's not really a good way to get a wrench on those bolts. Use of socket bolts wouldn't be much easier. (I came up with what I think is a better design, discussed below.) As far as clearances go, this should do nicely! Clearance over my crossmember is perfect. At full compression, there's "enough" clearance under the sway bar. This is what full compression would look like (I didn't have the bump stop pads welded on, but you can see I'm nearly maxed on the coilover), but I will be limiting compression beyond what is shown in this pic, so my max compression will be less than this. After confirming the driveshaft fitment and clearance is good, I went back to thinking about the adapter and bastardized my v1 to make it v2: This actually uses rear wheel studs for the truck and the leftover axle shaft studs from when I did the disc brake swap. The lengths on these not only end up being perfect, but they're the same size and thread as the OE hardware for both the TX10 flange and the H233B flange, so I've got new OE hardware on order to replace everything (I still need to pull the rear diff to swap gears). This adapter will be 3/4" thick, with 1/4" pockets for the stud heads. Master TownDawg will be producing the finished piece from aluminum, since neither of us are convinced redwood is a suitable material. And unrelated to the SAS, I bought new terminals and really like them. I made something similar using replacement lugs and terminals, but this is way cleaner and better for some of the stuff I need terminals for. Ok, that's it for now. Getting closer to having it back to being on the ground.

If it's made it this far... Either it was well cared for or replaced. it'll be fine

OOOOooooooof... This is a Novel!! And a bit above my head on the technical aspects of it. As far as the injectors go, sourcing, I had to replace 2 of them on my VG30 not tooooo long ago. Maybe it's been a couple of years now... maybe... I replaced them with the Beck-Arnley version of them. Found them on Rock Auto. I don't recall how many they had, but I only got the 2 that I needed at the time. I looked not too long ago to get the remaining 4 done, but finding NEW was becoming unobtainium. I wound up getting 2 Standard Motor, and 2 Rebuilt ones that I haven't found the need to install yet. The 2 good "New" brands that I would stick with are Standard Motor Products and Beck-Arnley. Beck usually re-boxes OE stuff, or that's what they did in the past. For imports, they're pretty solid. Standard is usually pretty solid as well. If you punch the part numbers into Amazon, you might be able to find them there as well and not get gigged for shipping like Rock Auto. I would always buy new if you can avoid the rebuilt ones. I have no real experience with rebuilt ones aside from 2 that I got off of Rock that have not been installed. With the age of these, you get what you can get I suppose. BTW, the 2 injectors that I replaced made a world of difference in the idle and perceived power. I have some steep hills that I don't lose power on anymore that I used to before the swap. Upgrading the injectors might not be a bad idea, but if the rest of the engine is stock, you're probably better off keeping it stock.... but don't go the cheapest route. That doesn't always work out in your favor.

Couple updates since the last post... Got the Rubicon sway bar mounted. Still a few more things to do before that whole component is done, but for now, it's at least mounted. Awaiting some parts to finish the pneumatic portion of it, and need to make the mounts to attach the end links to the axle. The end links are from a late model Mustang, to add to the Frankenstein parts collection. Also finished the radiator shroud. Turned out well enough, I suppose. Tasked my CNC router to make the ABS panel and then spent some time heating it into shape before riveting it on. At this point, all the radiator is back in the truck and the engine is basically waiting for coolant. I'm waiting to do that until I figure out how I'm mounting the steering lines. Ordered new switches for the overhead console. Not sure who remembers, but a few years ago, I picked up an overhead switch console made for Patrols. I installed it in the truck long ago, but it's only had blank panels installed since. Looking forward to putting it to use, but not looking forward to redoing the wiring. I'll also be overhauling the pneumatic setup...and also dreading that, too. Got these from https://www.otrattw.net, except the ARB cover. Found sway bar "diconnect" switches all over the place, but since OTRATTW lets you customize the text, I just decided to make it spelled correctly. The remote air switch will be used for my tire inflation/deflation setup. Ordered all the power steering line kits and fittings. I have a pretty good idea how that's going to work, but still figuring out how I want to route the lines. No real update beyond that.