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RE the hood light, I stuck LED strips under the hood of mine a while back and wired them through the anti-theft hood switch. Hood up, lights on. Honestly one of my favorite mods I've done to the truck.

Doesn't have to be a daily to encourage them to develop parts for it. Ironman has a wide range of products for various makes and models outside the USA. The R50 sold well internationally with many of them still being modified and used for recreational purposes. With the exception of engine options they don't change much from region to region so I think there's a chance we could see some offerings even if they aren't as plentiful as others available to the USDM Toyota or Subaru crowd.

95 M/T Pathy Been riding the Pathy pretty hard the past 6 months and the exhaust manifold leaks are getting worse. Truck sounds like hell. Looks like it’s time to think about some headers. I’ve been doing some research - on this board and elsewhere - and it seems like the Thorleys (short tubes) might be the way to go. Sounds like most people who have installed them have positive comments. Unfortunately, the price I’ve seen (Rugged Rocks) is now $600! That’s $100 more than the last time I checked. So, my questions…I’m working away from my garage right now (I have most of my tools) and don’t have the luxury of my car jack and stands. Is this possible to do without lifting the truck? I do have a shop down the street that does welding - in case I run into any fitment problems with the exhaust. Bolts or studs? I’m leaning toward studs. I’ve replaced this engine and had the bolts out - so not too worried about breaking any in the block. I’ve tried tightening the bolts - but doesn’t change a thing. Any prep work or stuff I need to have available for this job? I’m especially curious about prepping the surface before installing new gaskets. Feedback, as always, appreciated.

You've got a rare critter! Most two-doors had the TBI (VG30I) and the four-doors had multiport (VG30E), so that's why they're marked as two-door and four-door. The actual body shouldn't make a difference, AFAIK they're only different from the B pillars back. The smog controls are different between the two engines, which I assume is why there are two styles of header available. Unless Nissan did something really weird, I'd expect yours to take the '90-'95 headers to match the engine.

As mentioned above, the warning light says "BRAKE" not "PARKING BRAKE". This light does not glow when you simply depress the brake pedal, nor does it glow if the brake switch is stuck (which would keep the rear brake lights on all the time.) The warning light indicates that something regarding the braking system needs attention, whether it's the parking brake being engaged or low brake fluid level, which lowers as the brake pads become more worn. Don't just top off the brake fluid; check your front brake pads, too. They may be due for replacement soon.

Make sure your brake fluid isn't low, the "brake" light will come on if the fluid is low. But yeah if I remember correctly the "brake" light switch for the parking brake is at the base of the level in the center console. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I had a first gen honda civic. Someone had used an extension cord to wire in an electric fuel pump, had the orange insulation as well, haha. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Well I got the carb installed anyways. I still got some tinkering to do. I think I will need to buy individual jets. I got a high altitude jet kit, put the smallest fuel and largest air jets I had in, but it still smells really rich, and is chugging a little. I did also make the mistake of putting 4 and 6 spark plugs wires in the wrong place on the cap, so had a misfire for a bit. Will probably pull the plugs and make sure they look ok before I do more tinkering. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

If you need to download, my pearl of wisdom for Gaia is to load the Satellite layers separately as they’re the most likely to hit the cap. Also, if you’ve downloaded an area you’re unlikely to go back to anytime soon, at least delete the satellite imagery to give you more room before the 100K cap. If the download is hanging up for unknown reasons, it’s probably the MapBox cap. I wish they would just build into it a warning that said “This cannot be downloaded as it will exceed the MapBox Tile Limit”. It took me way too long to figure this out. I tend to aimlessly wander so I like having a large area in great detail.

Sorry for old bump; Im looking at getting headers for my 01/1990 2-Door WD21, 4x4, VG30E, manual transmission. Are the pace-setters and doug-thorleys only made to fit on the 1990-1995 4-door SE models? Or will they fit on my 2Door? I am confused by the fact that I have a early 1990 2-door SE, which seems to suggest I should look for 87-89 headers. But I dont have a VG30i, its instead a VG30E. Help? ----edit --- Here is what I've learned - From 1985 to 1989 Pathfinders were available with 2-door body, either the VG30i or the diesel -The four-door Pathfinder was introduced in October 1989, and in early 1990 it became only a four door. -Some US 1990 Pathfinders came with the two door body, but they are rare. (mine is one of these, apparently!) -1990 the V6 received an upgrade from VG30i to VG30e. ----2nd edit --- So I need to find headers that will meet requirements of 90-95VG30e fitment, and being a 86-89 2-door body style, and a manual 4x4...anyone can help with this? Mike at AC says " I have never ran into this situation with 2 door Pathfinder that had VG30E." ?

Well, the R50 offroad market is small, cheap & diminishing here in the U.S. Sadly, while Pathfinders are common here (I literally see a couple on just about every drive I make), they’re rarely used as offroad vehicles. In almost 20 years I NEVER ran into another one on the trail (AZ, UT, CO, NM, CA, OR, WA, BC, ID) & think I only saw one other one and it was as minimally modified as mine at the time. In the last 5 years or so, there’s been an explosion of interest in offroading in the US and at the same time these trucks are now dirt cheap. Sadly, they’be become a bit of a throw away vehicle. It doesn’t take long on FaceBook to have a very sad impression of the R50 community these days. Conversely, offroading has been a part of daily life for alot of Australians. My Australian friends here talk about things like how their Mom, as a teacher, checked a Land Cruiser out of the district motor pool for her teaching duties. Following PCoA & corresponding with a couple Australians, R50s offroad are fairly common there & suppliers are numerous - many of them laugh at us buying ARB because that’s the most expensive of more than a handful of options they have. IronMan is just one of a few of many Australian brands that already have a domestic product but are only now considering distribution in the US. That said, I concur that they are unlikely to find a market willing to pay their prices (anyone familiar with the Toyota market would find our products ridiculously cheap but our options virtually non-existent. Everything on my Pathfinder cost a literal fraction of what something similar costs for my 5th Gen 4Runner). The Toyota world is full if 20 & 30 somethings willing to throw gobs of their disposable income at their truck. I’d love to see more Australian manufacturers bring their products here. The video that sparked the IronMan debate was rife with oddities & we already have an example of a successful application. I suspect we’ll soon have a second. If the guy who decided to distribute IronMan products here has an employee with an R50, I expect it’s a personal purchase. Given our tiny market, buying an R50 would likely exceed any profit margin they can expect on ALL R50 products they’ll sell here. I imagine our best avenue to more R50 products is a personal interest by the staff who will be deciding which products to bother importing. Frankly, I’m impressed with a professional response on their part in the face of a non-compliant customer. I don’t really understand what that truck owner’s goal was? All complaint, no attempt to fix or get his money back. I doubt any of the forum regulars would have responded similarly. IronMan already has a rep outside the R50 community & it’s pretty good. It’s my hope that one guy, and an overreaction on our part, doesn’t get us labelled as a community not worth supporting. I have to admit I responded from a jaded perspective. I spent more time on FaceBook R50 sites in the last 2 weeks than I ever had before. The level of immaturity, ignorance & stupidity I observed was mind numbing & depressing. The NPORA forum is typically a respite from all of that & has tended to make me feel superior to what I read on the Toyota forums - FB negated all that.

I completely agree with adamzan, I did mine without a press just a ball peen hammer and if you give the inside of the ears where the bearing cap seats a light emery cloth scrub the new parts will go in easy, it took me a little while how to figure out how to completely dismantle the front driveshaft to clean all the old grease out of the slip yoke, i only needed to do that for the powdercoating since i had it all apart I polished the shaft with the splines and put in new grease and it slides a lot smoother. good luck and don’t drop the roller bearings on the floor when reinstalling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My info: OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] $167@Desert Rat/4WP Rear Brake Line [bHH BH381108] $19.79($17.99+$1.80t)@O’Reilly You don’t need to extend the rear diff breather to lift. I have the following & the stock line still works fine. If you are going to extend it, use 1/4” fuel line ~20-25’ & run it to the engine bay firewall while you’re at it. Britpart NRC9448 +4", 225# Spring Rate, Blue/Red; from LR 90 Defender-RearRH, 110 & 130 Heavy Duty-Front RH $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from LR Direct

I have pacesetter headers, they work great. They have an armor coated and a non coated set. I bought the standard ones, no problems. https://pacesetterexhaust.com/products/90-95-nissan-hardbody-pathfindr-4wd-headers-5-spd I have had good luck with them. It was a bit of work to get them in, I have the luxury of a lift, so I was able to move around as needed. I cannot remember what all I had to do, but to have it on jack stands or car ramps would be a good idea. It is a bit of work to get them into place over the manifold studs, but once you find the sweet spot it falls right in, bit of pushing and pulling to get them to mesh up at the y pipe to tail pipe. I think my hardest part was just getting the nuts on and tightening them without having much room. Both of my pathfinders with and without headers have had quite the leak at the joint below the drivers feet. Make sure that is mating nice and square before you bolt it up, not using the bolts to pull them together as I had done. I always formed a leak on the top side of those flanges. Make sure you go in after a couple hundread miles/ good ammount of heat cycles, and tighten up the hardware on the exhaust manifold. Mine took a set and worked themselves loose a bit. The only other problem I have had is that the Y pipe sits a bit lower than stock, so I have dinged 2 of them on rocks which kinda moved things around a bit, no big deal though. I have exhaust studs not bolts. Unsure on what differences it would make, might be easier.

Will double check everything tomorrow. PCV valve was changed during last engine repair. Before that repair it was eating a lot of oil, but plugs was good. And coolant level is always the same. Will check for visible leaks, because it is some smell like hot/burned oil under hood after driving. Thank you, I'm safe here as I'm on western part of country, and we have problems on the east (on border with russia). But your support means a lot to us these days. Thank you! Btw: recently started http://uatoday.tv, should be reliable source of news.