Leaderboard

I recommend checking, cleaning all of the connectors you have off to the left (Passenger side front of valve cover). I discovered that, sometimes, these connectors can get so dirty that they actually lose their connection. Short of the charging system, all of the wires that control/run the motor go through that bundle. Also, there is a ground tab on the distributor (Should be on the front of it). Make sure that is connected as well (When I went through the heads on mine, that wire broke).

I used an OEM top hat, not the pictured aftermarket one. I don’t think the aftermarket spacer needs to be welded - you just need to be sure to use it.

KYB struts are fine, noone has had a problem with them. There may be some improvement in road manners with the OME, but its incremental & probably imperceptible paired with AC struts; plus they are significantly more expensive. I believe it was [mention=38818]micahfelker[/mention] who experienced a failure with the Moog strut bearing, not KYB. Here was my part list: OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com Wish I had new rubber/plastic to go on the bottom of the spring but I just rotated my old ones since I did not. I believe@hawairish improvised with hose. @02_Pathy & [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] have excellent examples of 2” lifts; prior to their SFDs. 2” is all you really need & can make a great build. While manual hubs are all the rage, many of us, particularly the ATX14A trucks, are still running autohubs. In a part-time 4x4 truck there is no reason not to install them; but I wouldn’t get hung up on it. If you’re not spacer lifting, keeping it at 2”, & not rock crawling, you’ll probably never need new CVs but if you do, the manual hubs make it possible to replace them without removing the tire. Having owned my truck since new in ‘02 but having just started to refresh it about 4 years ago, you’re in for a treat. Just freshening the suspension alone will make it infinitely more pleasant to drive.

Go with KYB struts. You can purchase the rubber isolators separately from various online Nissan parts dealers. Replace the strut bearings and bump stop/boots as well. The correct Bilstein shock for a 2" lifted Pathfinder is 13-185552. With a 16" or 17" wheel with the correct offset, you can fit a 32" tire after some trimming or heat-remolding of the front plastic liners. You won't need to trim sheet metal, but you may need to remove or trim mud flaps. I have Ultra 175 Rogue wheels, 16x8 with 10mm offset. I was able to fit 265/75R16 tires with minor rubbing after trimming plastic wheel well liner. Tires cleared the strut tower as well. Camber bolts may be a good mod if you notice positive camber after lifting it. Manual locking hubs do prevent excessive wear and tear on the front CV boots while driving in 2WD. I have owned my 97 LE for 23 years. It has over 210K miles now. It's been lifted for 22 of those years. Ran 31x10.50R15 tires from 1999-2003, 32x11.50R15 tires from 2003-2006, 265/75-16's from 2006-2017. 285/75R16 tires 2017-present.

Barely streetable mostly just a offroad toy

Right under the Nissan emblem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A flush mount angled camera would be your best bet...single hole, one and done. Drilling into the liftgate (or truck, for that matter) takes a little courage, but mask it off, double check your clearances inside the liftgate (particular for the wiper motor and linkages), and take your time. It is possible to get wiring through the liftage tube/grommet going into the chassis. I've run wiring there previously for some LED lights I installed. Just need a rigid wire to fish/pull wires through, and removal of all the trim liftgate trim and weatherstripping. For the reverse signal, you've some options: Behind the front passenger kick panel, one of the harnesses has a yellow wire that is the reverse signal. The harness will depend on whether it's AT or MT, but they're in the same area. The FSM details it (I can help with more info about your truck). Many cameras will have a power wire "tail" at the RCA side and a positive and negative lead on the camera side. The camera-side wires can be tapped into the reverse signals at the tail light with the pos/neg wires (or just pos from the reverse pos signal and ground the neg wire). You can then connect the tail wire to the reverse signal on the radio, without having to use the reverse signal from the kick panel. (The tail light will power the camera and signal the radio.) If the camera side signal wires aren't long enough to reach the tail light (plausible in your case if installing on the lift gate), but you plan to use the reverse signal at the kick panel, you can cap the pos wire at the camera side and just ground the neg wire. You then need to connect the reverse signal, radio reverse wire, and the camera's tail wire together (this will send the radio the signal and power the camera). If the camera lacks the tail wire, you'll have to use the reverse signal from the kick panel for the radio signal, and also the tail light for the camera's power leads. Note that if your radio supports live camera viewing, you won't be able to utilize this camera for it because the camera will only be powered when in reverse. I recently added a reverse camera to my truck as a Phase 1 project, and while it fits the immediate need, it's not the end product. Because of the tire carrier, I made a bracket and ran the wires externally along the frame: This setup is temporary, and I may even redo the camera mount to center it in the hub. Phase 2 setup will require rewiring this camera completely as part of a quad-view setup using front, rear, and forward- and rear-facing undercarriage cameras for trail use. The live views of those will probably make my wife throw up.

With the clam shell spring Compressors , its all good and faster !!! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

My story wasn’t off road and wasn't a pathfinder but it still sucked! I was working as a fleet mechanic for a spring water company and I took care of two branch fleets. Once a week I would go to Alexandria, 80 miles away to just check fluid and general conditions because the drivers never would. I just brought basic tools because I didn't do any major work at that branch. I drove an 89 dodge half ton pickup with a compressor on the back that had no power so I pretty much drove it to the floor most of the time. I had been ignoring a separated motor mount for a few months because after recently changing it, it lasted maybe 8 months and tore again so I wasn’t in a rush to change it again. Around 9 pm I left the branch heading home and stopped at a convenience store for a snack for the 80 mile drive home. Getting back on the interstate I punched it as I usually do and somewhere around 3500 rpms the other motor mount let go and the engine twisted over a few degrees and the fan started digging into the shroud. I surveyed the situation and decided I could use the factory jack to lift the motor and push it back in place. So while I'm under there fighting with it the only flashlight I have burns out! Going from memory and feel I finally got the motor over enough so the fan wasn’t touching the shroud and drove home at 45 mph taking off really slowly! The next day I got two motor mounts from the dealer and two new flashlights! James

Fuel pump went out 80 miles from home and 50 miles from the pavement. A tow could have easily cost $600-1000 and I'm not even sure anyone would have taken the job due to the terrain. I had to leave the truck overnight and hope nobody would mess with it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and ECU fuse just to be safe. I returned the next day with a new fuel pump and everything I needed to get the job done. After pulling the bed to get to the pump I noticed that the wiring to the pump had been cut and spliced. When I pulled the connector it had pretty bad corrosion so I cleaned the contacts and plugged it back it. The damn thing fired right up after that and drove home just fine. At least I got to return the unused fuel pump.