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Facelift step bars are not compatible with pre facelift. They have different mounts

Had fun I did. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Swapped the front ends on @ferrariowner123 1996 and the Pines to Spines 2003 today. He graciously donated the 2003 last year to @hawairish and I with the request that we swap front ends at some point, which he and I knocked out this afternoon. All body parts and lights bolt on with only the hood latch on the 2003 and wiring for the lights on both rigs needing some modification. The 2003 uses 9003 series headlights and has the corner/turn signals combined where the 1996 has separate signals and corner lights and uses a 9004 series headlight. With both rigs present and @ferrariowner123 's electrical knowledge it was a fairly straight forward job to swap and modify the plugs to get everything sorted out. The fender flares do not swap over and have to travel with the appropriate fender but once paint matched shouldn't be too noticeable. All in all a neat project with both rigs fooling you at first glance.

The trip yielded some important R50 items I needed. A set of factory VDO Oil, Volt and Oil Temp gauges out of a Volkswagen Cabriolet convertible 89 model. Probably going to refurbish them and put them in my 97 Q. Also got the passenger side Pathy front right trim that connects to the bumper and the covers for the rear gate hinges#97jlr50 #infinitinorthamerica #r50speedoandtach #r50obsessed Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

If you don't have a 4 wire trailer plug already, you can either get the factory adapter, or this device from Curt that has factory plugs to splice into your left rear brake light. If you want to manually do this by splicing in yourself, there are several other generic versions of this. But I wouldn't mess with it. https://www.suspensionconnection.com/55361-nissan-pathfinder-trailer-wiring-kit.html Good luck. It took me several years of on and off work to get my 7 pin plug and electric trailer brakes installed. I already had the 4 pin. I estimate at least 20 hours of work and 20 hours of research. But I was being too picky about how I did it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I had Westin steps on my QX4 and they were reasonably beefy and looked good. No rock sliders by any means, but they were a very effective step, as my stock ones also rusted out. Didn't buy from here, but this is them: https://realtruck.com/p/westin-e-series-3-black-nerf-bars/v/infiniti/qx4/2002/

WD21 and D21's have a body on frame construction. The R50 is a unibody. The inner fenders of the older trucks could be cut out without causing too much structural issues. Not so much with the R50. The TT part of the VG30EDTT is for twin turbos. Those attach to the manifolds right in the narrowest part of the engine bay and where the steering shaft goes. Not saying it is impossible, just that it will be very difficult and really won't be too much of an "upgrade" over a VQ35. Then again, I am more interested in in torque than hp with my truck. The VG33 I have in my 93 allows me to keep up with traffic. The tires and suspension keep me from wanting to go over 80. That and I am old, so not generally in a big hurry anymore. I am the old guy camping out in the right lane that oddly still seems to get to his destination at his planned time.

Keep the strap intact, place the top side on the truck, cut the strap and as the shock slowly extends guide the lower bushing over the axle side mount.

I BARELY got them on brand new, gave my arm a workout. According to @02_Pathy, you’re best bet is to connect bottom bolt first then push down from the top, although I’m living proof that it can be done the other way. Orientation is boot down for the most effective draining, but I run opposite cause I like seeing the chrome. I’ve seen other vehicles do the same

To restore your odometer accuracy, get a speedometer recalibrator. I have mine set to within 0.5mph with 285-75-16 tires. A Dakota Digital SGI-5 is a good choice. I think the Yellowbox is the easiest to install. http://yellr.com/yb_home.htm

Rears lower than front?...that will all change soon. Random pic today working at Honda

Nope, not Cavalry blue. I mistyped when I wrote Heritage Blue. I meant Cavalry Blue (although they do also have a Heritage Blue too!)I initially was going to go with Heath Gray (old FJ color) or Cement. Then saw the Cavalry Blue awhile back and liked it too but was like man if they mixed Cement and Cavalry blue, that would make one sick color. Well, I believe they did just that with this color. Released on the 2018 Toyota 86, it's called Thunder. I saw it in person and my mind was made up immediately! The previous pics show it as a little more blue than the eye sees due to the lighting. The pics were taken early this morning just after daylight, around 6:15 or so. Here's a comparison between it and Cavalry Blue: Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

We did a 72 mile off-road overnight trip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Before and after's The photos need to be swapped, but you get the picture Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk