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My favorite picture from 2018. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also a side note regarding the new front spring set up. With this configuration, any concerns about wheel backspacing and strut spacing are pretty much a non issue. I could hack off the offending first few inches of the strut perch if I wanted because it’s just kind of hanging out there as waisted space now. I don’t have any plans of changing my wheel and tire combo any time soon, but figured it was with mentioning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

NRC9449 w/32” tires puts my rear at 37” for now. Maybe it’ll settle down to 36.5?

Brake line fixed, and brakes bled! WOW those springs are good. Definitely tightened up my rear handling, and they’re not annoyingly stiff. Stiffer for sure though. Rear currently sits at 37”. Front is currently at 35.5”. The rear used to be at 35.5” with 3” of spacers. AC coils showed up late last night! They go on tomorrow morning at my local suspension alignment shop. Special thanks to @02_Pathy and @micahfelker to giving me advice and help along the way!

I used round steel tubing for the sfd spacers. I’m not sure I’ve seen other spacers made with round tube instead of square, but I like how they turned out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I told you all I was impatient when I get going on a project! I went ahead and made a 3 inch sfd over the last few days, and got it wrapped up this morning. All of the alignment specs look soooo much better! Also it’s a lot easier to work on things under there with the extra space. Getting the motor mounts and front diff out was a challenge, but putting it back together after the drop was in place was a breeze. I won’t lay out the steps as it’s been covered here enough, but I’m very happy I went ahead and did this. While I had the welder out, I also used the extra pieces left over from the front coil spring spacers to make new rear coil buckets that bolt on top of the stock lower perch. That netted another 1.5 inches in the back. So the rear is now LR9449 springs with a 1.5 inch spacer. I also welded in a proper panhard drop bracket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some friends here in Argentina have installed navara snorkel in their r50 and others in their d21 and they work well, here they are manufactured by a local company called airflow I will buy it soon and surely make a detailed thread

As long as you have a gap between tire and strut perch, you're good. That gap won't change, short of adjustment by camber bolt(s).

It makes your rig less capable. You run the risk of blowing up or binding a CV if you get a wheel in the air, because your CV axles droop (in my case) 2.5” below what they’re supposed to run at. No one who regularly off-roads their rig sticks with a spacer of more than 1” for very long, theyre just too unreliable. One guy blew 4 axles in one off-road trip because he was on front spacers. Not to mention, you gain no load bearing or handling performance that a spring lift provides, and your articulation doesn’t increase as much because your springs still aren’t very stiff. Until I got manual hubs, my passenger side CV clicked at full lock really badly, and that’s not uncommon. If you want to go off-road and carry lots of stuff and have normal handling, get springs. If you wanna drive to the mall in your shiny Nissan, get spacers. I only say this because of how many build threads I’ve read. Look at just about anyone who starts with spacers but is serious about taking their rig places. They eventually get coils springs, which hardly cost more than a spacer lift anyway. I’m really not trying to offend anyone, but that’s how I see it given the loads of research I’ve done on this forum and my own experience with a spacer lift. nobodies ever Blown up their CV’s on a coil spring lift, let alone experienced binding. Spacers have their place, but know what you’re getting into and why you want them. Again, I’m not hating on people who run spacers, I just see a lot of people start with spacers only to get coil springs later. Don’t make the same mistake as me. Save yourself time and money. Rant over

I can’t believe you did an entirely custom front suspension swap in so little time, that’s incredible.

Yeah I hadn’t even paid attention to that until I happened to really look at it from that front angle for the first time. That had nothing to do with my original reason to try this, but it’s a nice bonus. So far I still really like how the springs ride. I’ve had it around town and up to 80 on the highway and it rides nice. I don’t expect anything to change, a coil spring isn’t exactly a high tech item that wears out lol!

Glad to help you out! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Ya, it’s gonna sit somewhere between 35.5” and 36.5 if I had to guess

I think it looks great!

Thanks! I’m planning a trip to the pine barrens in NJ next month with some friends. Should be fun! That’s why I was in such a hurry to get it done....I didn’t want to be like “sorry guys, I know the truck looks tough but I can’t engage 4wd because I’m afraid of blowing a CV, lol! With the front jacked up and axles at full droop, I locked the hubs and spun the wheels and everything is nice and smooth without even a hint of binding, it’s a beautiful thing!

Now don't take this in a negative way regarding the choice you made as I sincerely hope it works well for you. But, for me personally, I'm not only done with, I've simply had it with Pioneer! When the news broke that they were facing bankruptcy I was actually happy about it because they ultimately did it to themselves by overpricing and under supporting their products. Unfortunately iirc I believe I read that someone had invested in them, which saved... or at least extended a life line to.... that piss-poor company. Full disclosure, I used to be a fan. Several years ago I bought a Pioneer deck for my car but they are absolutely horrible at supporting their products. "If" they even release updates to fix problems that should never have been on a released unit they only do so for a year, maybe two if you're lucky. And then you have a crappy headunit thats full of problems which you likely paid way too much for and they refuse to fix. Their answer is to sell you a new overpriced deck, the starting the cycle all over again. So for me, when this one that I have in the car gives up I will buy a new deck, but it will not be a Pioneer.

Sounds great!!

Every time you go out you learn a little more to make your trips better! It's part of the fun of it

JY let me have the part for free

Replace my carpet with actual OEM carpet matching my color from OEM surplus. Was $168 for first and second row carpet set including shipping. Fit perfectly! http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/pathfinder-5.htm

when i changed mine at 216,000 they looked even worse. the electrodes were burnt down to nubs. pretty sure they were the originals! lol. not sure how it even ran

from about a week ago we had nice weather and i wanted to start testing how i liked black stripes where the fender flares and bumper covers were. decided that i’ll use the entire line of where the fenders were and the entire area the bumper covered gets paint too. same on the front and by then i’ll have pvc pipe to make coolant and wiper fluid containers in the engine bay. that’s if i deem they stick out too far when the front cover comes off, which i’m pretty sure they will. if they don’t they’re turning black as well as the rocker panels of course. some areas of future derusting when it’s actually warm again i took the bumper off to clean up on same nice day as well because it wasn’t looking good. it didn’t end up back on the truck yet but truck does look cool ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 93 is my Jezebel, so that is her name. Jezzi for short.

Making it's way thru the SW Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Day 4 of our roadtrip, visited Arches National Park Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

oops, forgot the pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check the motor and trans mounts. also check the rear suspension bushings. I am going to bet it is the link bushings in the rear. Simple check, with trans in first(manual) or park(auto), parking brake off on hard level surface, rock a rear tire back and forth while watching the axle housing. If the yoke moves more than 1-2 inches up and down, you have worn bushings, Any side movement there is another sign of worn out bushings.

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Many years ago, I broke a rear swaybar endlink while I was in Moab. Couldn't see anything wrong because while the truck was sitting still, the ball end would go back into its socket. After getting pulled over and having the nice officer explain to me that when going around corners, it is not legal to have 2 tires up in the air, I decided I had to find the problem. when I grabbed the link and pulled, it popped apart and I found the problem that time. New link and I didn't have the sway anymore. I have also had to replace the rear link bushings for wear causing odd handling issues. Have to do it again actually. My right rear shock dumped all its oil about the time I wound up parking my Pathy for a while and I have noticed it has become a bit squirrely due to that. I will also admit that my truck is in rough shape since she has been neglected for the last 4 years and I am just getting back into working on it. 3" body lift and 4" suspension lift in the rear with soft springs have made things really noticeable.

Made it from WA to UT and having a blast out here, did Schafer trail/White rim Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Cut the bumpers up today, long overdue

I thought I was one the right track with this project, but so far the two people I’ve asked are on the fence. I wanted a low profile platform rack to strap on to my existing roof bars, kinda like the flat racks that you see on 4runners. I mocked up a frame out of EMT, I’d love to hear your guys thoughts on the asthetics of it. I’ll add crossbars if I like this shape. I just wanted something a little wider than the current rails, and with more cross bars than what I currently have. I also want low profile. Anyhow, thanks in andvance

I made this heavy duty in rail basket system using the stock cross bar clamps that I reverse engineered so you an just slide the rack in and clamp it in holds about 650lbs before things get sketchy

More mock up. I’m thinking 1” or 1.5” steel bar for a mini fairing up front. I have a coworker who can weld this all together for me. Dimensions are 60x45.

Hi All, Thanks for allowing me to join this group. Well let me start of by saying that I have a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder that I've been working on now for about 3 months. I've been working on little mechanical issues it has. But almost done. I've been looking for some steel black rims in 16" and have found them. But the problem now is that the store manager told me that NIssans and Toyotas have issues with Steel rims. So I have here to the pros to find out the answer. Have any of you who have steel rims on your R50 have you encountered any issues? Here are the rims that I want to install on the Path! These rims are 16" by 8 and 6X5.5. Tires will be a 265/75R 16 Also, I need to change my value covers which are leaking. Any advise you guys can share? I'm in Socialist Republic of California thanks

This site is AWESOME... I've learned a TON OF INFO, and my 95 WD-21 IS REAPING THE BENIFITS! Just wanted to say THANK YOU EH! Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

IIRC, Nissan calls for Pennzoil 80w90 LSD. Any 80w90 with limited slip additives should be fine. You can also just use 80w90 and add a tube of LSD additive. Ask about fluid for a "posi" rear end. They're probably Chevy guys and call all limited slips Positraction. If it's leaking out the fill plug it's over full. It's good practice to use a thread sealing tape or compound on your plugs. If using tape, be sure to get oil resistant type, and wrap it opposite of the way the plug tightens, i.e. wrap the threads counter clockwise since the plug tightens clockwise. That way the tape doesn't just unravel when the plug is installed.