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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/18/2019 in Posts

  1. Thanks for the shout out! Unfortunately, bumpers from us won't become a reality as soon as we'd like (surely not within the timeframe you're looking), but they are on the long term road map. The Coastal bumper appears to be a great alternative, so we won't hold a grudge if you do go that direction, lol.
    4 points
  2. Cut the bumpers up today, long overdue
    3 points
  3. You bet, I would also keep your eyes peeled for a bumper from @hawairish and @TowndawgR50 thats supposed to be coming soon. They're planning on releasing a bunch of R50 specific products very shortly. More deets here:
    3 points
  4. Yes, in static and adjustable options.
    3 points
  5. Thanks everyone for the continued support and patience! I know this thread has tangented off a few directions so far, and that was ok since I think it spawned a little excitement in everyone (including ourselves) to get more products out there. Going forward, though, we'd love it if the discussion stay centered on some of the ideas we're working on and any related questions. We're aware that competing products do, or may soon, exist. But, that doesn't phase us, impress us, nor change our goals here. What we've been working on is far more dynamic than anything out there. We're due for another update, no doubt. We've got a big one coming very very soon (hint: tonight?). Let's just say that yesterday was a major R&D and prototype day for us. Stay tuned!
    3 points
  6. I have run across a couple of their products on US trucks locally & have inquired of the owners when they bought it, how was the experience & how was the fit. So far, a couple good reports - no negative. Definitely keep everybody posted. There’s been alot of talk about rears but the only recent ones I can recall are[mention=38818]MicahFelker[/mention] &[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] custom jobs. If[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] put a beveled corner on his & offered it, I think it would be a tough product to beat! However, I would imagine that’s a long way off, if ever, given the other projects they have underway & the low hanging fruit yet to be grabbed-so I wouldn’t hold my breath. I also think the very low price, and relative ease, of retrofitting the swingate makes it a low demand item (“ease” of course said by someone who has watched[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] do it twice (plus his own) & with at least 2 still to go).
    2 points
  7. Looks really good! I like the subtle approach. That area behind the wheel is where I had to do the most trimming when fitting 33’s. The pinchweld sits further back and really isn’t an issue. It’s the actual lower edge of the fender that sticks out. Pardon the crude drawing, but this pic gives an idea of what I had to remove from the lower fender. It’s barely even noticeable unless you’re sticking your head into the wheel well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  8. I'm patiently waiting to see the new available products and how much of my money you guys are gonna end up with!
    2 points
  9. Joshua tree Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  10. It’s been said before, and ya, the results vary, most people either get a placebo effect or notice a small difference. Though it’s worth noting that @Jax99 wheeled an SFD equipped rig that had no missing link, and his subframe actually cracked and tore. Pictures and explanation of it in his build thread.
    2 points
  11. I mentioned this in another thread but figured I’d share a teaser of what I’m working on next. It’s either going to be awesome, or an epic fail...lol! With the addition of the tube bumper, and plans for a winch in the near future, I need to finally upgrade from the stock springs up front. I considered ordering the OME HD’s, but I like to be different and decided to experiment a bit. I’ve been doing a lot of research on sites that supply parts for race car builders and have a lot of components for building custom suspension set ups. I settled on these springs And the plan is to pare them with this adjustable spacer on the bottom strut perch. Since the stock springs are wider at the bottom than the top, and the aftermarket springs aren’t, I went with springs that should fit the top strut mount and the adapter should take care of the problem of being a bit too small for the bottom mount. I’m going to keep the 2 inch strut spacers I already have, so my plan is to use this combo more for increased load capacity and not necessarily set it up for much more lift. But, if my calculations are correct, than this spring and adjustable spacer combo should able to provide up to 2.5-3 inches of lift without spacers. I’ll update this when I get time to actually dig into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  12. Honestly the missing link does very little. It’s one of those things that is so cheap and easy that there’s just no reason not to do it, but it’s not a game changer. If anything it does tighten up the handling a little bit. I 100% think all R50’s should have it because it’s that easy, I just don’t want anyone to get false expectations on what it will do.
    2 points
  13. After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!
    1 point
  14. I lifted my rig in stages- - 2" spacers up front, new KYB struts on stock springs, Warn manual hubs, rear OME MD springs with HPDE spacers, Airlift spring helpers and Bilstein monotube shocks - 4" lift via SFD with a full front end suspension rebuild, front OME HD springs and a missing link -6" lift with new polyurethane bushings on all components front and rear, adjustable upper and lower control arms and LR rear springs paired with bilstein 5160 rear shocks At each point, based on having drove it from the stock condition to its current 6" setup, the ride quality has consistently improved with my current setup driving better than it ever has. Not at all rough and bouncy nor sloppy on the road. The truck flexes well off road with fully intact extended sway bar links front and rear, helping it handle high speed turns on and off-road without any lean or instability. Its luxurious and very comfortable yet purpose built to handle some very demanding driving. Love it. The only issue I've encountered was at the first stage with a 2" spacer lift on stock springs- I was breaking CV's when I had full extension of the front suspension under load. The CV showed no sign of binding when up in the air on jack stands but with the load of the driveline in 4 Low in an off-road scenario the axles would detonate in that same full droop position. I was using, and still am, the brand new lifetime warranty imported CV axles from O'Reilly's. Without that warranty I would have been on the hook for 3 extra CV's. 2 lost from off road over-extension and 1 to a tear in the boot.
    1 point
  15. Hey all, don't know if this has been posted on here yet. Thought it may interest some of you. A local Vancouver (BC) company that makes beautiful front and rear bumpers has just started selling a weld together front bumper kit for the R50. I've seen their work in person on a number of other vehicles and can vouch for their quality and excellent design. Here's a link: https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/r50-nissan-pathfinder-high-clearance-front-bumper-kit Also side note, anybody know who's truck that is in the pics? It's a beaut!
    1 point
  16. If you already have spacers, and add springs, your overall droop and hence risk to the CV’s is still the same. When you do a spring lift, you’re just partially extending the strut within it’s travel range, so there will be less down travel left before it bottoms out but it won’t extend any lower than it does now. Hopefully that makes sense? With that said, there are two things to consider. Alignment could become more of an issue, but that’s easily fixed with a set of camber bolts. And if you don’t have manual hubs, then the increased lift will add a little more stress to the CV as it will always be riding around at more of an angle than it does now. The maximum droop won’t change but the static angle at ride height obviously will. Personally, I’d leave the 1 inch spacers, plan on camber bolts, and get manual hubs if you don’t already have them.
    1 point
  17. I’m tempted to order a rear bumper for my wd21 from Wam... Will see how it goes and let you know haha.
    1 point
  18. I just purchased my pathfinder about a month ago so I have many “to do’s” on my list. I started following you and will be looking forward to new products you will be releasing in the future. ??
    1 point
  19. Yup I'll be installing longer bump stops to prevent that and damaging the shock on full compression Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  20. Alright, from what I think I know, a .5" spacer on top of my AC coils is NOT a bad idea, but I could be wrong. I'm under the impression that a .5" spacer cannot under any circumstance cause binding. Is it a bad idea to try to cut my existing 1" spacers (I have 4 total) with a saw? I'm not sure what it takes to cleanly and effectively cut through HDPE
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. It’s not clean, trust me. Also, LR springs have now been ordered. NRC 9449's for me!
    1 point
  23. I'm running these exact tires right now on my daily driver. They are amazing on rocks and hard dirt, and they are actually decent in the mud and snow. They seem super grippy for the dry Utah trails that I ride and I can rely on them to get me through the mud when I need to. I only run them in the summer for I have snow tires for the winter. They are wearing evenly and slowly, but I will be going with more aggressive tires this next summer. Hope this helps at all.
    1 point
  24. I really like the subtle look, good job! I had to cut the same as @Bax03SE to fit 32's.
    1 point
  25. Clean work and subtle, but subtle is good! IIRC, there's a pinch weld behind the plastic liner in the rear of the well where you described your persistent rub. That can be remedied by pulling the liner out of the way, flattening the raised area, replace the liner, put some heat to the liner and massage it a bit.
    1 point
  26. And driver side... Went much smoother and almost in 1 continuous cut so I think it came out a smidge better I'm going to use some 3m body tape to keep the liner taut, as I get a tiny sub still right at the edge That's some decent approach! Ended up a little anticlimactic in the looks dept. Looks clean and I doubt will catch anyone's eye. Not sure if pathfinders have the same issue, but there will always be the little rub on the rear bottom of the fender corner. Is to me the real restriction of 32s on a pre-refresh QX4 with only 2 inches of lift.
    1 point
  27. Aaha I’ll just use my obII port for now. Just popping in as well for anyone reading, been at a standstill with any posts or replies as I’ve nothing new has happened due to school and sports goin on now. Still active daily (usually late) and keeping updated on the Forum [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  28. it seriously does nothing for your CV’s. The control arms have the same amount of travel, but they can’t pull away from each other in the lateral direction. So your CV’s still have the same travel unless somehow your controls arms could move far enough laterally that your CV’s are overextending, which would mean catastrophic failure for your front suspension. And that’s what a missing link helps with anyway, though no control arm should move that far anyway. Trust me, I had mine up on jack stands, the droop was the same before and after.
    1 point
  29. yup, those all look like they are coming out of the same factory. If you cruise that site they show them making them in piles laid out on the floor. I have inquired what the total damage would be to get them on the ground here in the US. We'll see. I will post it up when I get a reply. Maybe I will just become an ebay entrepreneur like all them other guys LOL. I personally would like to get an OEM one for a pattern and make a copy out of all aluminum or Stainless. That would be something. Cheers
    1 point
  30. Yes. From looking at the photo, it appears that on the compressed side, the shock is fully compressed but the axle is not sitting on the bumpstop, meaning you definitely need to extend the bumpstop. It also looks like you're about to get coil bind on the compressed side, again meaning you need to extend the bumpstop. Looks good overall though
    1 point
  31. Ugh.... Getting ready for complete engine rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  32. It works!!! Sill have lots of work to do to finish up the lose ends but I was able to drive it down the street today.
    1 point
  33. It’s a whole herd! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  34. Thanks for the welcome! I love it up here, not sure my pathfinder likes it up here though! I took it to work once and it don't like the mountains! Burned a half tank for the two hour round trip! got it floored going up most of the hills too! It sat for a few months in louisiana before I had a chance to bring it up so I'll give it a good tune up this weekend and try again next week. My Ram 3500 dully makes a whole week back and forth to work on one tank! Can't beat a cummins for power and fuel mileage!
    1 point
  35. Tempting! I'll have to take a long hard look at my dashboard and decide if I really want to pull it all apart again. It was so much fun the last time.
    1 point
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