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Add one more to the successful Land Rover Defender spring install, here's my numbers: Rear: Spring - Land Rover NRC9446 from LRDirect for $77.27 shipped to WA Shock - KYB OEM replacement P/N 343379 from RockAuto Front: Strut - KYB OEM replacement P/N 335031 and 335030 from RockAuto Strut mount/bearing/boot - KYB OEM replacement P/N SM5329 from RockAuto Spring - ARB 2928 Old Man Emu Coil Spring P/N 2928 from Amazon Sagging suspension: RR: 31.25" (FSM spec: 33.31") RL: 30.5" FR: 32" (FSM spec: 32.09") FL: 31.25" Rake: -0.75" (FSM spec: 1.22") New suspension: RR: 34.875" RL: 34.5" FR: 33.25" FL: 33.25" Rake: 1.44" Note: I had a shop assemble the front struts with the OME HD springs due to the increased compression required and subsequent sketchiness factor.

CB Skip

Brake cable came in and they are an exact match. Crawled under the truck and measured the cables, same length. This thread was all over the place, so to sum things up for someone perusing this thread: Rear DISC and Rear DRUM are different part numbers. 36530-42G16, 36531-42G16 are the OEM part numbers for the REAR DISC Pathfinders (see post 16,18). I think the 36530-42G15, 36531-42G15 are the Terrano part numbers. New cables are hard to come by these days and Rockauto, among others, only carry the cables for the rear DRUMS. Post 20 illustrates the differences, so make sure you specify the cables you are ordering for the Terrano if ordering from overseas vendor. Paid $89 delivered for the set.

Thanks man, I had no idea! Looks like they’re great filters also:

Pretty interesting stuff here.

Alright. I've been ordering parts this weekend (I'm realizing that tubing, wire, switches, relays, and diodes add up... *sigh*), and hopefully I'll put together a high resolution diagram for you all.

Nice job. Looks great!

See, you guys have a real SouthernCal/AZ group started too. Funny, the ties between the SW & NW.

I love this forum. learned something new today

onespiritbrain - Thanks for sharing the vid Finally got a chance to watch it. Good stuff.

My solution to most of my paint problems is a black paint pen. No mess and it looks alright if you stand far enough back!

My guess is that the #4 injector has a slow fuel leak. When the engine's off, it's leaking fuel from the rail into cylinder 4 (or just its intake runner, if the valve's shut), flooding it and making it misfire when you start it up. Some of the fuel seeps past the rings to contaminate your oil. Because the leak is small, you don't notice it when the engine's running, at least not after the puddled gas has blown out of #4. I don't know the VQ computer too well but I wouldn't be too surprised if the high idle was trying to compensate for something. The mucked up PCV sounds like something to address, but unless the PCV is dripping goo into the runner for #4 or something, I doubt it's causing your misfire. Don't forget to change the oil after fixing the injector (if that does turn out to be the issue). Good luck!

I apologize for terrible photo quality, but for anyone interested, this is the wiring schematic that I'm planning on following. A relay that can be triggered by the dome and OEM reverse lights or manually powered. I already have a high current wire running to my sub-woofer, so I'm planning on powering the entire circuit off of that, as well as putting diodes on the taps into the reverse and dome wires. Using a SPDT switch, i should be able to turn on the rock and backup light when 1. Anytime the sub-woofer can be powered (Acc/on) OR 2. Whenever power is supplied to my OEM backup lights or the dome light AND the switch is in the bottom "on" position. Also, this way I can have the lights all manually turned off. Simply tapping into the existing wiring would not have given me that option. As far as I can tell, this is a viable way to wire my lights, but I'd value any input where I've gone wrong or could improve upon this setup.

Solved my paint problem. The spot that required a small touch up was on the roof under the roof rack cross bars difficult for most, particularly my small stature wife, to view. Heck .5 onces exorbitant prices is BS. Therefore, carefully sanded, wiped well with alcohol and painted with Rustoleum blue right out of the can. Ninety five percent of people will never see this. My wife definitely will not unless she climbs 6’ ladder. Problem solved! I am not a genius, merely handy with paint and small brush. Good ‘nuff! MTG

I swapped out the radio in my dad's 03 years ago when it crapped out. Installation was fairly simple from what I can remember, with no stupid security codes or anything like that. Should be plug and play.

Looks great! And you're totally right about those CV axles, they're not bad once you get the hang of it.

I've been slacking in the update department! Two weeks ago I successfully installed the front/rear suspension lift, honestly ran into just about no problems. I'm really lucky in that this vehicle has just about no corrosion so everything came apart easy. Thanks to everyone on the forum for providing a ton of info to allow me to prepare ahead of time! Front comparison with KYB struts (P/N 335031/0), KYB mount/bearing/boot replacement (P/N SM5329), and OME HD springs (P/N 2928). Rear comparison with KYB OEM size shock (P/N 343379) and Land Rover Defender springs (P/N NRC9446). Step 1 was build a little mini-workbench with scrap wood from the 'ol Depot. New goodies piled up ready to go on: Old front suspension (no pics of new assembled, just imagine much cleaner :P): While I was in there I threw in new CV axles, SUPER easy on this vehicle. Old OEMs were torn so I may rebuild them as back-ups. Camber bolts, I don't know if they needed them for the alignment, but figured might as well install 'em. New rear shocks. Had to get crafty with jack stands and jack to install the rear springs. Ended up disengaging the sway bar links, differential breather tube, and the trackbar from the knuckle side. This pic specifically is showing the set-up required to get tension off the trackbar bushing so I could get the sucker back on! At some point I took a break and threw some new #74 LEDs into the gauges and #196 into the license plate lights. Took maybe 15 min. Sorry I don't have any level side pics. I might take them later. I did get to test the suspension a bit out getting stuck on some forest roads near Leavenworth, WA though. 4x chains and 4Lo got me pretty far before my lack of recovery gear or back-up vehicles turned me around. So what's next after New Years? -trunk drawers to maximize organization -low pro basket mount -360 degree fog lighting to basket -new tires (currently 29" A/T, maybe 31" A/T?) And a smidge further down the line: -custom rear tire carrier off of trailer hitch Let me know what you think!

When all it takes is $4 and few hours of work, I can’t see a reason not to do it.

Time has come again and during my favorite season of them all! Will be back in hawairish’s shop again over the weekend. Have some really exciting stuff planned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally had some free time so I just drove on some forest roads, and I low key like the moon dust grey [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

As a follow up, I went through on this approach to the missing link. Definitely added some sturdiness to my ride, and I’m very pleased with it for what it cost

Thanks herotrooper! Ya I saw the one of sfcreation, but I’d like to not spend $100