All Activity

Apologies for resurrecting this post, if there is a better way, but... Need to finally get around to fixing the fuel gauge on my 94. The gauge reads incorrectly (or some times not at all?) like OP's, and I don't think the low fuel warning light works. Do the round dash units not have the voltage regulator issues of the square dash models? Do all signs point to a bad sending unit, and is there a way to test it, probably involving removal of the pump assembly?

I haven't driven it that much. The times I did drive it, I didn't notice the rpm issue. I would have to drive it again and pay more attention to things. I didn't think to use AI as possible help. At this point it isn't going to hurt.

I was driving back from work then had to come to a stop on a red light and the truck started idling at 2k rpm i moved the mtps as low as possible and it was then at 1.2k at home i resetted the tps to factory position and just adjusted the idle screw now it idlesll at 800 rpm stopped but then when you're in neutral or press the clutch while moving anywhere past 5mph it revvs to 1.5k and when you revv it and lift of the throttle in neutral the truck drops to 425~ rpm before jumping back to 800, today I tried going to work and it just cranked and didn’t start the dizzy cap was shot so I bought a new one, it didn’t work so i bought an ignition module and coil but turns out it might be the ckp but where is the ckp VG33E FS5R30A

Ah, sorry, I misunderstood! "For fun", have you tried using an AI-tool to help diagnose what might be the problem? You have pretty good data on components and systems you've inspected and/or replaced, plus you have what seem to be pretty clear (perhaps unusual!) symptoms. Something tells me you're on the right path with the lean misfire, I briefly looked it up and it sounded like what could be happening in your case. (If you've been able to test drive it, does it do the thing where the RPMs drop, say if you were driving at a steady speed/RPM, or is that just not under load?)

The old distributor was doing the same thing

Are you able to test if it does this with the used/core distributor?

2 years stock cv on 2" lift original cv with manual hubs. won't be a worry for you.

I cranked it as far as it would go until it hit something and stopped.

Well the distributor didn't fix the issue. Not sure if I mentioned this prior, when holding the RPM's around 2k, it will stay there for a short time, then it will drop about 500 RPM's for a moment, then go back up to what it was before. My tach doesn't work so I'm guessing at the RPM's.

lo tendre en cuenta bro gracias

So i have been trying to model some stuff for my game where you build an r50 from scratch like in my summer car but i dont have any pics of an empty engine bay or block etc etc so i'd love to get some pics specially the engine bay with not too much parts or no engine (if anyone has one) and more importantly if you can find one a block for the vg either way thanks

Never been on a continuous hard 10k trip but i have driven my 2” lifted pathy almost daily for the last 4-5 yrs with lots of offroad miles mixed in. I installed high articulating cvs specifically designed for lifted vehicles when i initially rebuilt it. I have manual hubs which i run in 4x2 when not in the dirt. Those cvs are from trakmotive at rockauto. 30-35k miles later I havent had any problems with this set up and have run the truck pretty hard when offroad. Hope this helps.

Hey guys, quick summary of my situation: I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern. Right now I see two options: 1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress. 2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this? Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term? Cheers!

Hey guys, quick summary of my situation: I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern. Right now I see two options: 1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress. 2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this? Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term? Cheers!

Hey guys, quick summary of my situation: I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern. Right now I see two options: 1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress. 2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this? Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term? Cheers!

Hey guys, quick summary of my situation: I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern. Right now I see two options: 1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress. 2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this? Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term? Cheers!

Gulp, I was gonna ask about the procedure for testing/replacing those eventually, that sticker shock has just caused me great sadness.

I know this sounds stupid but on that distributor, can you grab the rotor and kind of force it in the direction you need it to go? I had this happen on one of mine years ago. After a timing belt change it ran like ass and had no power, the timing was too retarded, couldn't get it advanced enough and the next tooth on the distributor the lowest I could go was 20 degrees. I was able to turn with less force than I thought was necessary, and was able to get it so I could time it properly. Obviously not "correct" but something is probably similarly off with yours. Not sure what happened during the timing belt change but assuming someone must have hit it or knocked it out of spec. 17 is close enough that I'd just leave it though... And you'll have a tickle more power (lol on these engines take all you can get). I remember at 20 or 25 degrees it had great take off but living dangerously. BTW. I went to go check mine on the weekend for the mixture, and my fuel sending unit has @!*% the bed, the wires are too corroded. Try finding another one of those that isn't $500.

Chris, I have been trying to message you but there is an error.

Great job and thanks for the photo sharing!

Glad you were able to find the issue and get it fixed! And thanks for updating the forum with your findings!

I have an extra distributor that I marked core. I have had it so long I forget why I marked it that way. I figured I would try and put that one in and see if the issue goes away. The issue went away. I couldn’t get it any closer than 17 degrees. That’s within the range the manual gives. I am relieved to know that it should be the distributor. I will get an another one and cross my fingers that it fixes the problem. I will report back after the new one is installed.

alr thanks for the help, i will search for one, about the coolant issue it was just because it was a fresh replacement it is not consuming it anymore

Yes. It is in spec

Have you done the Fuel Pressure Check?