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Precise1
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So I was jacking around at my buddies shop tonight, and started to sand blast this brace. I gotta give it to Calmini, there powder coat job on this one was solid. Impressive actually.

I still have not gotten it all off...

 

Gloss or flat?

Edited by tmoore4512
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So I was jacking around at my buddies shop tonight, and started to sand blast this brace. I gotta give it to Calmini, there powder coat job on this one was solid. Impressive actually.

I still have not gotten it all off...

 

Gloss or flat?

Semi-gloss... :D

 

Gloss is fine, all the other parts are shiney too. Thank you!!

 

Paint it pink as a joke

I fed you, sheltered you, worked on your truck and gave you parts and this is the thanks I get you bastage??

Do not mistake me for Nunya again!! :bwack:

 

B

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Sorry to hear about your experience, that sucks. I live about an hour away from them and one time(a few years ago) I went to check it out and ask for a catalog.I have yet to get my catalog and they just didn't seem to know what they were doing. I was looking into there products before but now I'm never gonna buy from them.

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their A arms seem to be ok...but they do squeak...my turck used to only have the typical nissan crack and pop from up front...but listen to this guy....

 

 

the bum bum bum sound at the end is the tires grabbing the rear fenders...i need to do some more trimming

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  • 5 weeks later...

That looks really beefy!! thumbsup.gif

 

I like the tie rod set up also. Your own design?? How is that working out for you??

 

B

 

yes beefy is good but. how are the tire-rods?

I do like that the joints reduce the overall rod angle too. the added stiffness and reduced angle means less slop under travel.

I thought about doing that but, what becomes the next weak link if the tie rods are bullet proof?

I like the Idea of bending or breaking a tierod because it hopefully means someting else didn't

what do you think?

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Yes, my own design, The drag link is 5/8 hiem joints and the tierods are 3/4 hiems with 5/8 high misalignment bushings.

The only weak link is my hands,LOL If you stuff a wheel in a rock or ditch it will jerk the wheel out of your hands.

The only draw back is the changed geometry will give about 2" of bumpsteer, but for off road only I dont notice it.

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  • 1 year later...

I looked at buying some calmini products as well, Im glad I did the search and found out they are just a nicely done website to get your money. In the end I used a another steering box for my idler brace

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  • 4 months later...

I know this is an old thread, but in defence of calmini.....I've been making a few idler braces for the guys over here, and there is some variation in the idler arms. I thought there were 2 different one's (stock 12mm, and an aftermarket 14mm shaft one), but there seems to be more. Mostly variations in the length of the shaft, but at least one was slightly different in the offset. And of course if it's already bent it wont fit either....

It's no excuse for poor service though....

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  • 3 weeks later...

They should all have the same exact bolt holes. The frame doesn't change with idler arms even if they vary.

 

417998_10150615554314075_1854908138_n.jpg

 

I had a small issue with my AC brace not lining up properly either. The error probably comes from welding precision error. I just took it to a machine shop and they corrected it for me.

 

480165_10150643200204075_1508895304_n.jpg

 

Works perfectly well now and fits great. My only complain is the bottom protector plate sticking out a little too far down.

 

292567_10150841431809075_902938606_n.jpg

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Yes, cut it like this. You can do a steeper angle; there is a bit of extra metal that accomplishes nothing structurally speaking. It's just the same angle iron rounded so it makes sense from a manufacturing stand point, if not aesthetically speaking. Part of why it is cheap...

 

007-1.jpg

 

I know this is an old thread, but in defence of calmini.....I've been making a few idler braces for the guys over here, and there is some variation in the idler arms. I thought there were 2 different one's (stock 12mm, and an aftermarket 14mm shaft one), but there seems to be more. Mostly variations in the length of the shaft, but at least one was slightly different in the offset. And of course if it's already bent it wont fit either....

It's no excuse for poor service though....

I would understand if it was a case of wrong fitment/model year/whatever but this one was just so far out of square it wouldn't seal on the bottom or the holes would have to be opened at least 50%, allowing it to shift. It was simply made incorrectly. Working in manufacturing, I know how bad product can get out the door but how you deal with it afterwards is the other 1/2 of business. :shrug:

 

Hopefully they have it all sorted out now. :aok:

 

B

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  • 1 year later...

Necrothread never dies!! :lol:

 

Thats brutal that knowone got back to you

I don't know about brutal, but definitely not standing behind their product... :shrug:

 

B

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  • 2 weeks later...

After spending some time on this websit i'm finding alot of info about everything , and it sounds like people are not happy with Calmini. I'll make my own stuff for my pathy but is there anything i need to know about making my own brace. Any tips? :FartExplode-vi:

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Make it square and put the bolt holes in the right place... :D

 

An idler arm brace and pan hard mount drop are probably the more straight forward things to make. I'd just look look at existing designs and copy one per your preference/fabrication methods. I'd argue that most designs (Calmini for example) are probably overkill. It doesn't hurt anything, just putting it into perspective.

 

B

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