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for the $$$ which is better? rear lockers vs front lsd?


Coucoui6
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Ok, I'm gonna be differant, my vote is for front LSD(if you have rear lsd) I been High cenered a few places where spinning one front wheel and both backwheels led me to desire more up front.

But If your open in back (not lsd) than I'd say get a locker.

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yes, i have a rear lsd... that is why i asked this very question... i too have been high centered at times. also the cheapest rear locker for LSD is a detroit locker and 4x4parts.com has them... and its not that cheap. about 600 bones.

 

R200A Limited Slip Differential 1987-1995 Pathfinder & 1986.5-1995 Hardbody R200A Front differential V-6 only $650.00USD

 

Complete Detroit Locker Assembly All Nissan's With H233B, 31 Spline Axle $595.00USD

 

i wish i can use the lock right but according to the 4x4parts.com site it is for open diff.

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Cheapest is to weld it solid....

 

Next cheapest would be to buy an open diff for the rear (junk yard, classifieds/ part out on here) then install a lock right in that. Probably looking at under $400 depending. I have known a few people who made a deal with another to swap LSD for open straight across.

 

Edit to add, unless you like to replace CV axels for fun, leave the front open. The rear is strong enough to take full lock and LSD lock up, front, not so much.

Edited by GrimGreg
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Edit to add, unless you like to replace CV axels for fun, leave the front open. The rear is strong enough to take full lock and LSD lock up, front, not so much.

are you saying an LSD up front will wear out CV's faster?(duh) Will cause CV's to wear out rediculousy fast?

 

you could also check a JY for a 300zx LSD(r200 rear end), but make sure its a cluch type LSD. theres info somewhere here for what year/ edition you should or should not find it in.

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are you saying an LSD up front will wear out CV's faster?(duh) Will cause CV's to wear out rediculousy fast?

 

you could also check a JY for a 300zx LSD(r200 rear end), but make sure its a cluch type LSD. theres info somewhere here for what year/ edition you should or should not find it in.

 

Yes

 

 

And it's the 87-89 turbo that has the right rear end IIRC.

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Cheapest is to weld it solid....

 

Next cheapest would be to buy an open diff for the rear (junk yard, classifieds/ part out on here) then install a lock right in that. Probably looking at under $400 depending. I have known a few people who made a deal with another to swap LSD for open straight across.

 

Edit to add, unless you like to replace CV axels for fun, leave the front open. The rear is strong enough to take full lock and LSD lock up, front, not so much.

 

 

welding it... uhmm. i never thought of that before. but how would that feel driving on the road and around town?

the inside and outside wheel would be in conflict? right?

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welding it... uhmm. i never thought of that before. but how would that feel driving on the road and around town?

the inside and outside wheel would be in conflict? right?

fully locked diffs such as weleded, spools, and remote engaged lockers(in locked position) all chirp exessively arround turns and can often be felt thru the chasis when doing so. this puts much wear on the tires.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
fully locked diffs such as weleded, spools, and remote engaged lockers(in locked position) all chirp exessively arround turns and can often be felt thru the chasis when doing so. this puts much wear on the tires.

 

Ok maybe I'm a bit slow so bare with me... I jus got my 95' PF and was thinking of doing a rear LSD. Is this the same as welding the spider???

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no, an lsd will allow the rear wheels to turn independently of each other. Welding the spider gears will force then to turn @ the same speed

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just my 2 cents

 

i had a detroit locker on my 78 datsun king cab......it screeched around every corner, and jumped a bit. i would never get another one for myself. i do like limited slip on my pathfinder, and would love a air or electric locker

 

fenderworks

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i thought about putting an airlocker in, and then i got a really good deal on a lockright that was already installed in an open carrier. I paid about 200cdn for the locker and another 350 to have it installed by a pro. If i had gone with an ARB, it would have cost me closer to $1600 to buy and install it. I like the simplicity of the mechanical 'lunchbox' locker (lockright and aussie locker style) over the ARB because you don't need to buy and install a separate compressor and do all the extra wiring and plumbing associated with it. The lockright makes a bit of racket and gets a few strange looks from others, but it is not enough of an annoyance to make me pay extra for an ARB. plus it feels cool when the locker starts to bind making your truck lean :D I'll really be able to give it a good test when i get on a trail, but so far it's night and day between the LSD on gravel

 

if money wasn't and object, I would have got an arb, but having a locked rear for under $600 installed was too much to resist.

 

by the way, you can pick up a nice portable air compressor for less than $100 to do your tires with. i believe the ARB compressors are a tad more pricey.

Edited by nige
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no, an lsd will allow the rear wheels to turn independently of each other. Welding the spider gears will force then to turn @ the same speed

 

Thanks for the reply but now I'm more confused, how is this different from a non-LSD???

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Thanks for the reply but now I'm more confused, how is this different from a non-LSD???

LSD locks the wheels together when one wheel is spinning faster than the other...so think of a situation, your stuck in some sand,(you have open differential) and only one of your wheel is spinning, right? This is because that wheel has the least friction, and energy is always looking for the easiest way out. If you had LSD, the difference in speed between your two tires would set it off, locking them together 50/50 with power, and turning the one that DID have traction, moving you to safety. LSD is good for street cars, because it doesn't usually catch on street cornering, think of a car, going around a corner, the outer wheel needs to go faster, as its going in a bigger circle, right? but if you have a lockrite locker, or you weld the differential (so they always spin together) then that outside wheel is turning the exact same as the inside wheel, and since that outside wheel needs to turn faster, it makes the inside turn faster than it can while still holding traction, and therefore 'chirping' on the street.

 

 

Welding the differential is the 'cheap' way of making a LOCKER. Remember, lsd is open until the wheels are at varying speeds, lockers are ALWAYS locking the wheels together. Its kind of hard to explain HOW they weld them without some pictures, and you having a decent understanding of how a differential works....But welding=locker=street chirping.....lsd=not locker=not chirping

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Thanks for the reply but now I'm more confused, how is this different from a non-LSD???

 

watch this video and then you will understand how an open differential works

 

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type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars="">

 

here's a link to google image search of lincoln locker. there are lots of pictures of differentials to look at. after watching that video you should be able to understand why people do that

 

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&...mp;aq=f&oq=

 

the limited slip differential does just what it's named. it limits the 'slip', or ability for the wheels to turn independently of each other. They do this using a series of friction plates fixed to the spider gear carrier and the axle shaft. now, it requires a certain amount of torque between the axle and spider gear carrier for the friction plates to 'slip' or allow the axle to turn independently of the spider gear carrier.

 

here's a link showing some pictures of an lsd being disassembled and reassembled.

 

http://home.comcast.net/~xterra/tech/LSD/

Edited by nige
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I would suggest rear locker too.

 

In most situations, you're going in nose-first. (Unless you like wheeling in reverse...) Even if the front wheels lose traction, they can still steer. So you can still power out of the mess/situation by locking the rear, which can take a tremendous amount of strain, and letting the axle push the truck onward. Of course, if you're caught in such heavy mud that you can't steer, your only option may be to back right out or take 94extreme's approach and get a front-mounted winch.

 

A front locker is much more limited unless you have a solid front too. Your range of steering drops materially when locked since the sheer amount of torque flowing through the front can easily overwhelm the CVs and they can snap. Also, you will get some binding since the outside wheel can no longer turn more than the inside wheel. That happens with the rear too, but if you think the rear outside wheel is grumpy about not being able to turn fast enough, wait till the front voices its opinions on the issue. Front lockers are awesome in low traction, straight ahead kind of situations. They can take a bit of turning and swiveling but I leave the ballet-dancing out. I now also carry spare CVs. :lol:

 

LSDs are neat. I'm not familiar with the ones mentioned here, but it may be worth investigating the strength and durability of the various options available. Some are much weaker than others and are really not meant for wheeling. Others could seemingly move APCs through mud.

 

:02:

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