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I'd replace the rear main seal on the motor if you're able. Get a nissan part if possible, though.

Cool that was my undertaking but couldn't find a definitive answer. Thanks for clearing that up! I'll be ordering land rover springs and poly bushings next week, then the rear should be good for a while.

thanks for setting us straight!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Presuming Nissan didn’t change the design much for trucks in that era, there’s a rubber plug that the brake light switch makes contact with. It’s probably deteriorated, which means the brake switch has nothing to press against, leaving the circuit closed (brake lights on). But, I’d crawl under the dash, shine a light on the brake switch, and see if it’s missing the plug. This happened on my 98 Frontier just a few weeks ago, fully drained my battery as it sat for weeks undetected, and it was a pain to replace such a trivial and inexpensive piece.

got the 40s mounted. Sorry in advance if the picture is rotated. I have no idea how to upload pictures here. I have to use other websites to upload bc this site has a tiny size limit when directly adding pictures. I use a third party that makes the picture into a link, and the link shows up as a picture.

Those shocks will work fine without extending bumpstops. As for using F250 bumpstops, the perpetrator of that experiment would be me. I don’t know that I’ve quite bottomed out my rear suspesnion since putting those in, but they gave me another 2-3” of bumpstop. Typically, If you go to a shock longer than the 26” ones, you should extend bumpstops, as those shocks tend to compress at a longer length and may be the limiting factor in suspension uptravel, which they are not designed to do. Also worth noting is that the 26” shocks (2” lift shocks) should not require brake line/diff breather extension (from my understanding), but do check that on your own vehicle to make sure of that. It’s also worth noting in this discussion that pre-facelift and post facelift R50’s have different shock mounts. The info I just listed applies to my experience and the experience of others with post-facelift R50’s (1999.5-2004). @micahfelker put in 29” bilsteins and dropped a coil on the trail due to having higher shock mounts than me or @02_Pathy, who also run the 29/16 bilsteins.

I love this time of year. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Figured I’d update this to include my current set up. Currently running 9449’s in back with a custom spring perch bolted on top of the stock perch for an extra 1.5 inches of lift. Ground to fender lip measurements are with 285/75/16 tires. Front measurement: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Banned for grammar issues!

Just to add a little justification for the cost, even building your own kit isn’t cheap. I just added up what it would cost me to replicate everything on my truck as it currently sits, and it’s right around $600 that I have in it. That not only includes the material to fabricate the sfd components, but also the front and rear HD springs, extended shocks, limit straps, etc.. Once you factor in the labor time to fabricate the kit, and the fact that there needs to be enough profit to make it worth your while, there is a good reason that it isn’t cheap to buy a good pre-made sfd kit. If you’re not trying to make a profit, have the means, and just want to make a kit for your personal rig, then the DIY approach definitely saves some money. This also makes a good argument for waiting for the upcoming “pines to spines” kit. As I understand it, they are making the components modular, so if budget is a concern you can start with getting the parts for a mild lift, and then “grow into” bigger lifts later on by adding onto the basic kit. Correct me if I’m wrong on that....

So this can keep dumping fuel like clogged injectors do huh?...I've now gotten a 13 on the ecu and was thinking my injectors were clogged again...I just replaced the fuel line and filter and wanted to check the ecu one more time before I pulled the injectors back out. Is 13 a engine coolant temp sensor on a 87? I know some are different, like the 43 injector code was.

I got it! Cylinder Head Temp Sensor is all good! without having to take off the tbelt cover! Removed pulley bracket(Thanks to MY1PATH) See his post above for steps to remove its very easy. Using a maglite, locate the sensor behind the cover. Unplug the connector(Their is a metal clip holding the connector on) Once off, I cut 1/2" off of a 6point 3/8 13/16 spark plug socket and pulled the rubber piece out of the socket and it fit perfect over the connector....Put the socket on first.(worked it behind the cover w/ my fingers and lined the points up with the nut) then used a 6" 3/8 extension and 3/8 ratchet. Used this just to loosen the sensor( until it hit the back of the cover)then it came out by hand. Putting the new 1 in...Hand tightened the sensor and used needlenose pliers until it was in far enough to work the socket back on, then the extension. Tightened it up, plugged the connector back in, Put the belt and bracket back on and thats it....No more code 13, code 55 all good! Running alot better! (Pulley bracket off, Sensor is behind the curve in the cover in the pic...follow that harness next to the cap down) (Temp Sensor removed) ( You can see how close it is to the cover...Hand tighten until you can get the socket back on)