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Well folks, had an awesome day yesterday, but my transmission started slipping pretty badly. It won’t go over 45 mph anymore. It’ll still rev, slowly, but I won’t go anywhere, and when it does finally shift it freakin bangs into gear. Anyone have one to sell me? I’m looking into buying a tan pathfinder with a 5 speed with higher mileage and running it into the ground and then putting in a new clutch/rebuilding the tranny and swapping it into my red one. I’m all ears if anyone’s got suggestions! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have been using the 110 filter for years now. It holds a lot more oil in it which I like. Never once had an issue with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the diameter of the seal is the same, and the threads are the same, you won’t do any harm. I’ve heard mixed opinions about using larger filters than the factory design, but most opinions have agreed that using a slightly larger filter can have positive effects. I know for older engines, it helps to have more oil in the filter to pull from when starting, and for some things like camshaft variable valve timing, I’ve heard larger filters prolong the life of that too. Regardless, compare the filter to another brand. If you’re at a parts retailer, ask to see another brand (like a Purolator), so that you can compare shapes and sizes.

I haven't messed with VQs but from what I've read, they can be real drama queens about having the TB cleaned. Not that it's damaged, but it's drive by wire, and the computer expects a certain angle to equal a certain air flow rate. It learns if that changes slowly (as it gets dirty), but if it changes suddenly, it assumes something is wrong and doesn't want to relearn. I remember doing some kind of reset on my dad's '03 (which involved doing a dance with pedals and the ignition switch and probably something else, it was a while ago) to try and resolve a different issue. Maybe doing that first would make it forget that it's upset, and then it would do the relearn procedure properly? If you haven't yet you can get the factory service manuals here. If you scroll past all the hand-holding for how to use the Consult system, there should be some actual diagnostics and instructions for how to do stuff without Consult in there somewhere. Good luck!

Made this up today to mount a kindle fire that wasn’t being used with torque pro and the pro gauge app on it. Pretty sweet to be able to monitor all this stuff

I'm the original owner of my 01, always use 5w30 full synthetic (whatever's on sale) & a good filter (purolator, Bosch, wix), change @ 5-6k, she's got ~185k miles and still runs super smooth.

For future reference, at least on web browser, type the “@“ and then as you add letters, suggestions will show up @Mrelcocko

I’ve just now seen this thread. It does sound like it’s a tooth off. If I’m remembering correctly, and Mrelcocko will have to confirm, when it’s a tooth off it does exactly what it’s doing with you. The timing belt on this engine in a quest has got to suck.. Only other thing I can think of is the MAF sensor or a super bad vacuum leak. I don’t know how to do the shoutout thing to get Mrelcocko’s attention. He had a tooth off and might be able to help nail down whether or not that actually what it is. I’d hate to dig back under those timing covers for no reason.

For 106K & 16 years I ran Mobil 1 & changed it every 6-8,000 miles. When my power valve screws killed my engine the inside was pristine, still with crosshatching on the inside of the cylinders. No sludge & essentially no “varnish”. The mechanics thought it was the nicest looking engine of that age/mileage they had ever seen. I now shoot for every 8K, meaning I’ll usually get it between 8-9K.