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Pathfinder Studder, Stall, & Hesitation


stikky_p
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Went to the nissan dealer and they said that its probably the timing.. They were not 100% sure without spending big bucks to check it out.. SO im taking it to another mechanic to do the work. its 1/2 the price per hour.. so ill just get him to take a peek.. the previous owner did say he did the timing belt with him mechanic but didnt have the recipt.. maybe it skipped or maybe they just dont knwo how to do it... i dont know... they could be lieing too.. etiher way... would this all cause my problems??

Why would you pay someone to check your timing? A timing light is like $25 and it takes all of ten minutes to do.

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i do not knwo myself how to do that... plus i do beleive the dealer said something about checking it out but the timing marks weren't there anymore or something... i dont know 100%... they didnt seem to even care about it and didnt want the hastle.. ??? it was odd. im going to try the codes again run realtime and see if that comes up with anything.. i tried before but came up all working good.. ill look into the timing thing.. if i can check it myself i will..

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  • 1 month later...

Hey.. well heres an update... i took my pathy to the nissan dealer and well it was there someone broke in and tried to steal it.. broke the plastic around the ignition all to crap.. nissan dealer isnt resposible for any of it and wont help at all. They said that the timing marks werent there or very hard to read so they couldnt check the timing unless they dug into it huge to find out.. and at 95 an hour i didnt want them just to fool around.. anyway... just wondering how hard it is to dig in myself.. i did the timing on my dohc prelude but with some help.. should i just pay the $400 and let them deal with it? and do these problems sounds like bad timing.. like i said they were like 75% that was the problem.. but couldnt 100% determine without riping it off.. or ripping me off.. haha..

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dude,, to check your timing, find your timeing marks on the crank dampner/pully

mark them in white with white out or chalk.. get yourself a 10 dollar timeing light and point it down at the arrow to see where it hits.. I don't remember what the correct timing is off of my head but that easy enough to find out i beliver its like -6.. but don't quote me on that.

 

88, what is the correct timeing?

 

 

oh if you get a cheap timing light, somtimes its hard to get them connected to the spark plugs.. i just put mine on the distributor #1

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timing is an issue i dont really like to mess with... i mean its already bad so i dont think i could make it to worse... but still.. its something i've just stayed away from... maybe ill try it and go from there... do some digging.. anyone got a article on how to do the timing or check it on a 87 6cyl pathy?? my haynes and chilton books dont show that engine.. its mostly the 4cyl z engine...

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i would raise hell at the dealership if that happened to me.

 

 

complain to nissan of america

yeah, i forgot that part. what do you mean they aren't responsible? wtf? there are millions of lawyers that are waiting for your call. or do you like bending over? :shrug:

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only things that were broken were the plastic around the ignition and a couple things thrown around... nothing that i couldnt fix for $80.. lawyers wouldnt help my cause... just get charged through the butt.. and also doesnt help my timing issue...

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thanks for all the help guys.. im gonna try and see what i can do but unfortunatly i moved into a place that isnt so mechaniclly friendly... its got 1 driveway spot and its dirt.. it would be a joke to try and do anything.. im gonna see what i can do by myself just dont wanna cause more work for myself... but yeah.. ill get to it and we'll get er done...

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I've been having this problem also. So i decided to check my timeing. I put a white mark where i should on the pully. But when i went to check it, the mark wasnt on top. It was on the bottom. exactly opposite. Is that what they mean by 180 out? and is this a bad thing? Thanks for any info :help:

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I've been having this problem also. So i decided to check my timeing. I put a white mark where i should on the pully. But when i went to check it, the mark wasnt on top. It was on the bottom. exactly opposite. Is that what they mean by 180 out? and is this a bad thing? Thanks for any info help.gif

Someone probably just bolted your pulley back to the balancer upside down. IIRC, with the #1 piston at TDC, the keyway on the crank should be at about 10 o'clock (on my '87). Another check is to pull the #1 plug and hand turn the crank while plugging the spark plug hole with your finger. When you feel a rush of air blowing your finger off the hole, that's the compression stroke and you should be coming up on TDC.
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ive noticed 6 or so notches on the crank pully and a white marker mark on it as well... would this be from the last people that did the timing belt? what do these notches mean in the pully??? how would i check the timing with this.... i dont understand timing lights... i need a timing tutor... haha

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Yeah, the balancer is keyed, but the pulley attaches to the balancer with six bolts. If you take the bolts out it's possible to separate them.

ive noticed 6 or so notches on the crank pully and a white marker mark on it as well... would this be from the last people that did the timing belt? what do these notches mean in the pully??? how would i check the timing with this.... i dont understand timing lights... i need a timing tutor... haha

The mark furthest to the left is zero degrees (TDC), the next is five degrees, then ten and so on up to thirty. If the white mark is between the third and fourth mark, that's prolly 12 degrees. That's the timing on my '87.

Ever go to a club when they throw a strobe on the dance floor? Everybody kinda looks like they're standing still. All a timing light does is flash a light at the same time the #1 spark plug fires. If you aim it at the pulley, you'll be able to look at it like its standing still and see when its firing in relation to the marks on your pulley. By rotating the disributor you can adjust when that happens so the pointer lines up with the 12 degree mark and voila!...you've just adjusted your timing.

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Cool thanks man.. now i understand how they work.. i thought it was like that but wasnt sure.. now im unsure on what i need to do to the distributor to adjust it...

 

My problems..

 

1. there is 7 notches on the pulley and the white mark is on tdc (furthest left) notch.. if i understand correct it should be 12 deg? in between 3 and 4th notch. and what is this white line supposed to match up to? i know its supposed to match up somewhere.. anyone got any pictures of what it looks like or a video??.

 

2. does the problems of running for a couple second then dieing sound like the belt jumped a notch or the timing need adjusting? should i take off the timing cover and inspect and count the notches or adjust this timing first?

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I also havent cleaned my maf? simply because i had no clue where it was until the HOW TO section was revised.. AWESOME JOB 88.... I'll clean that and see if it helps.. what happens when one of the filiments is broken? would that cause my problem?? i've phone a couple mechanics and they said it doesnt sound like timing... i think the nissan dealer here must have been retarded... IDK!!! BAAAAH haha.. keep on pluggin.

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Look straight down at your crank pulley. There shoud be a metal pointer sticking out from the timing belt cover over the center of it. That's what you want to reference when you hit it with the timing light. Check to see if the 12 degree mark lines up with that pointer when the light fires. Like I said, it'll look like its standing still because of the strobe effect. Don't worry if its not dead on every time, just within a few degrees either way but averaging around 12 degreees. If it needs adjustment, loosen the 10mm distributor retaining bolt at the base of the distributor on the right and rotate the distributor CW or CCW until the timing mark lines up with the pointer then tighten the 10mm nut back down. Check the timing again in case you moved it and you're done. BTW, your prob doesn't sound like a timing issue to me either. You'll have to get it running more than a few seconds to adjust the timing anyway. Try the MAF sensor like someone suggested first. Good luck, bud.

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ok... apparently the fuel pressure is good.. and the pump is good.. so thats out... all vaccum seems to be alright.. when i disconnected the o2 sensor it did nothing because it wont run well enough to get warm.. computer reads nothing.. im going to try and clean the maf tomorrow see if that works.. any other suggestions.. im gonna try and get it done in 1 day...

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ok... so i cleaned the maf and all... did nothing... im thinking it something bigger.. like a throttle body... how would i tell if its something like that.. what exactly is in the throttlebody that can go wrong? i cant find a good mechanic that knows whats wrong with it.. one says throttlebody, other says timing, wtf is going on...

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There's a sticky with a website you can upload videos etc to for free around here somewhere.

 

Your issue isn't timing AFAICT...if it were that far out, it would simply run at much higher or lower RPM's, or not at all.

 

The dealership not being able to check your timing is a crock of sh!t! What a bunch of morons! That takes all of ten minutes to do!

 

#1, check the timing. If it's so far off as to make it run like that I'll be surprised, but at least you'll be able to see for yourself.

 

#2, check your ECU plugs and ground wire.

 

#3, check all of the TBI's electronic accessory wire plugs.

 

Let's see how it's timed and go from there. I have a sneaking suspicion about your catalytic converter, though...if it's clogged it may run like that too. Have you gotten underneath and visually inspected everything to make sure nothing's bent or broken?

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