speedy

Mine did the same thing a few years backs. Check to see you don't have a blown gasket where the "Y" pipe bolts right before the O2 sensor. You also might want to fix the hole in the floor board if you have one. When mine went (gasket), it was blowning hot exhaust through the top right at the floor board and since I had a hole in the floor board it was blowing right at the material under the carpet. Also if it's the gasket replace it with two gaskets (double them up) to help resolve the problem from happening again.

Thorley headers, with duel Dynomax 6" muffs that dump right before the rear tires, 2.25" from the headers back. Here is a clip of what they sound like....

I've done this job twice already once on my 87 and once on my wifes 91, and will be doing it very soon on my 89. Not to hard of a job, just real fun getting the old ones out. That link that Cuong posted will help you, I did mine the same way. Also, only pull, repair, and replace one link at a time since the axle may move a little when you remove them, makes it a little easy to get the links lined back in. Oh, and I've used AC's bushings both times, only because I can't find them any cheaper around here. And defenitely go with poly.

Thanks, I had one on the "real" 87, so when she past on to the junkyard in the sky, and I got the new one, my two girls wanted to know where the face went, so on went another. Only differance is the teeth.

Try it now...

Had a lead foot when I was younger, a very BIG one. One of the reasons I like wheeling is it keeps me off the streets, the pathy is just not up to running with the little cars with lights on top.

Sorry, the 50's are too big to fit, I really wanted the Hushpower II's but way too much dough. So I went with Dynomax 6" round for the room we have. They were about 60 bucks each, I'm also running Thorly headers and about 3' to the mufflers with 2.25" pipe then dump right before the rear tires. Enjoy!!!

Thanks but no.... I have enough of my own.

Thank you everyone who replied and for your opinion, but I found my answer, which is .006", again thank you for your help.

I'm not trying to be rude but, I didn't ask if I should or shouldn't do it, and I didn't say that I was or wasn't doing it. I asked how far you could deck the heads before it was too much because of the close tolerance. Thanks

Anybody?

This? http://www.purenissan.com/

Anyone happen to know for sure how far you can deck (shave, plain, etc.) your heads before it's toooooo much?

185,000 before it needed to be changed, would have lasted longer but I used the pathy to pull 1500' of wire an road the clutch to do it, other wise I'm sure it would have lasted longer.

Bought two yesterday for the liftgate at Advance auto for 26.46 each, Brand name "strong arm" P/N is 4758

Another thing to check is ohm's between the ECU and the injectors, if you don't have Zero ohm's then you have a break in the wire or resistence which would through it into safe mode and not let you go above 3 grand. Hope this helps also, it was another problem I had before when I had changed my plugs and had moved some wires around.

Under the hood on my 87 it's 12 deg. BTDC (Before Top Dead Center)

I was gonna take a pic of it but I didn't, sorry. But I rented it at Parts America for 32 and change and its called a pilot bushing puller. Had to return it to get the exhaust piece from the "Y" to the cat. Boy let me tell ya, thats what her truck needed was a stick. Kinda glad the auto tranny went. Wifes alot happier since I was in there we put in new torsions and headers

I just got my wife's tranny back in about 30 min ago. To remove and put back in I used a ratchet wrench on hers since I have allot of room with 3" BL, on the donor truck I used a socket and long extensions from the front of the engine to remove.

Well I finally got it, what a PITA, I broke the first puller and the secound didn't seem was going to work the all you heard was POP and it was out. But as hard as it was to come out, I don't think the grease trick would work, maybe for a pilot bushing but not this thing, heres a pic of it. If you look at slicks pic you can see where it goes. It sits in front of where the pilot bushing would sit. Hey slick, I think you had better luck with yours since it wasn't in the truck, I was fighting with mine for about two days with know luck. But then again I had no room for any prying action let alone getting a good swing with the BFH. Only cost 30 bucks for the puller which I can return since its a rental and get my money back, unless I want to keep it. Kind of a handy little tool.

So how did you get that pilot bearing for the auto out? I'm at the same problem and can't get it out. What did you use? The wife's motor is still in the truck. BTW I sent you a yahoo IM about the same problem

If it's been stilling for 5yrs, the gas may be no good (most likely) It turns into a nasty gel like substance which will plug up the pickup screen in the gas tank. Mine sat for 6 yrs and was the same way. Just another possibility.

Ok, to find out which wire is bad test from ECU pin 101 & 102 to injector "A" black wire. Next from ECU pin 103 & 104 to injector "B" black wire with a blue stripe. Which ever one has resistance is no good and you need to bypass. Good luck, Tim

Mine did the same thing this past spring, it puts itself into safe mode if the ECU dosesn't detect or the injector misses more than four times in a row. Check the wires from the ECU to the injector plug, you should have 0 resistance. All I did with mine was run a jumper wire from ECU to just before the injector connector and problem was solved. When I get out of work today I can give what pin number from the ECU to which color wire of the injector to test.

It took 3 Qts? The motor only holds 3.2 qts, WOW. Most likely you hurt your rings running that low on oil. The wifes pathy burns a little when getting on it cause of the same problem of low oil. Hope all turns out ok since you could have hurt a number of things.