KILLVOX Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Im wondering if this is a possible reason for this problem. A little while back i got an error code 33 which in the ecu code book i looked at from 88, says that it is a (Heated Oxygen Sensor) I am going to replace this anyway because i believe it is the original one and i have close to 180,000 miles on it. BUT! In my Chilton manual Code 33 stands for ( Exhaust Gas Sensor ) Could a bad Exhaust Gas Sensor be the cause of the idle problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 next im gonna check the wires for spark make sure its not running on only 3 cyl.. haha.. and ill check the cap and coil from there... just wondering if anyone knows any easy way to do all of this? Did you buy a timing light yet? You could hook the lead up to each plug wire and see if the light fires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 14, 2006 Author Share Posted May 14, 2006 so i pull the plug wire and connect the timing light to the metal iside of the wire and turn over the truck ans see if the tiing light flickers?? and do this for every cylinder?? Oh and i dont beleive the o2 sensor would be it.. i unplugged it from the harness and it still is doing the same thing.. its not idling rough.. it wont stay running!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 (edited) Wow, I just back read all of the posts and thats a lot of stuff. Like someone said, buy the timing light. No ifs ands or buts, just buy it and use it. Now, I have seen this before. One of you fuel injectors may of failed, mechanicaly. This wont set any codes. Its is acutally very easy to test to see if they are both working. On the top of the TB, the injector wires go back and down to the connector. Just trace the 2 wires for each injector and diconnect one wire per injector one at a time. Once one wire is pulled, plug the connector back in and try to start and run it. If it dont run, the other injector is not working. Then try the same on the other injector, just plug the other one back in. This will tell you if they are operating. You will need a small pin to disconnect the wire. Replacing the injectors is actually pretty easy. Just replace them one at a time! Try this! If you can wire a stereo, you can do this. Edited May 14, 2006 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 14, 2006 Author Share Posted May 14, 2006 ok i tired the unplugging of the injectors.. keep in mind this model is electoinjection.. thats what it says on the top of the aircleaner.. so all 4 wires are connected to the same connection.. i poped the connection open and it was caked with a red brown liquid.. looked kinda like a wack load of engine oil.. so i cleaned it out and plugged it back in.. also there is a 2nd plug right beside this one that looks to be grounds.. i cleaned that one as well.. tried it and no go.. still the same ole crap.. although i did notice on the passenger side right by the fire wall in the corner there is a blue plug thats not connected to anything.. i looked for the other 1/2 but found nothing... anyone know what that goes to??its got 2 purple wires going into it and 2 black.. but nothing to plug it into.. NEXT STEP IS THE SPARK... gonna go grab a timing light asap... see how that goes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Im wondering if this is a possible reason for this problem. A little while back i got an error code 33 which in the ecu code book i looked at from 88, says that it is a (Heated Oxygen Sensor) I am going to replace this anyway because i believe it is the original one and i have close to 180,000 miles on it. BUT! In my Chilton manual Code 33 stands for ( Exhaust Gas Sensor ) Could a bad Exhaust Gas Sensor be the cause of the idle problem. The Chilton's is wrong. Take a look. http://nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refgh0v/...thfinder/EC.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 so i pull the plug wire and connect the timing light to the metal iside of the wire and turn over the truck ans see if the tiing light flickers?? and do this for every cylinder?? Oh and i dont beleive the o2 sensor would be it.. i unplugged it from the harness and it still is doing the same thing.. its not idling rough.. it wont stay running!!! Nooooo, read the instructions that come with the timing light. The O2 sensor doesn't provide any feedback for the ECU until it's warmed up, so when cold it doesn't matter if it's unplugged or not. I looked and didn't see....have you run the ECU error codes? Nothing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 but did you unplug one of the wires for each of the injectors? Remember you have to disable one at a time. I know its electroinjection thats why you have to do this. sounds like you found the right connector, but just unplugging the connector wont do anything. you have to pull one wire then reconnect the connector to make the other injector operate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Im wondering if this is a possible reason for this problem. A little while back i got an error code 33 which in the ecu code book i looked at from 88, says that it is a (Heated Oxygen Sensor) I am going to replace this anyway because i believe it is the original one and i have close to 180,000 miles on it. BUT! In my Chilton manual Code 33 stands for ( Exhaust Gas Sensor ) Could a bad Exhaust Gas Sensor be the cause of the idle problem. The Chilton's is wrong. Take a look. http://nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refgh0v/...thfinder/EC.pdf The Exhaust Gas Sensor is the Heated Oxygen Sensor Chilton's (Chapter 4, page 14): The oxygen sensor, located in the exhaust manifold, senses the oxygen content of the exhaust gases which varies according to the air/fuel mixture. Haynes (Chapter 1, Section 49): 1 The oxygen (exhaust gas) sensor, used on all 1984 and later models, should be replaced at the specified intervals.2 The sensor is threaded into the exhaust manifold and can be identified by the wires attached to it. The Nissan Factory Service manuals refer to it as the "Exhaust Gas Sensor" in early manuals (based on my 1989 FSM) and as a "Heated Oxygen Sensor" in later manuals (Based on the 1995 FSM) Both Chilton's and Haynes strive to make the best combination of all systems throughout the year range, as a result there are some flaws in it. In this case they both say that it is located in the exhaust manifold and make no reference to the exhaust pipe location that we all know. Although not completely accurate they are not wrong either, they just supplied half of the info. It is true that our VG30 sensors are located in the pipe, but the Z24i's have them in the manifolds. They also use the codes from early FSM's while using the more commonly known name of "Oxygen Sensor" (or "Heated Oxygen Sensor") that Nissan switched to in later Factory Service Manuals. At least Haynes did link the two names together by making reference to the old name along side the new... even though it was easy to miss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KILLVOX Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 16, 2006 Author Share Posted May 16, 2006 hooked the timing light up to each individual spark plug wire and the light came on for each one.. so looks like there is spark to each of the plugs.. now its time to take the plugs out and set them against the valve cover to se if they park... could be a crappy plug.. but even if should run at least.. as well i dont know if my problem would come from bad wire resistance??? lost there?? i talked to a nissan mechanic and he said to first check the tps and the maf.. i cleaned the maf but didnt work any better.. also unplugged the maf wire harness.. didnt run any better.. am i missing something??? and how can i test the tps?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 did it run worse when you unplugged the MAF? It sure should have. If you pulled the MAF and there was not change, there's your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 16, 2006 Author Share Posted May 16, 2006 see its weird because it wont stay running.. i have to pump the petal to keep it going... but when i unplug the maf it doesnt run any better.. the thing doesnt even run unless i pump the pedal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 The more you describe the problems and the progression of them, the more it seems just like the ones I was experiencing not long after I bought my truck. I have not mentioned it because it was unlikely that your problem is the same, but again it is sounding more and more like it. I went through many of the same problems and over a period of time it steadily got worse. Starting as just a slight hesitation at 2500RPM and ending with it being undrivable because it would not stay running.. and like yours it would run fine for the first 10-maybe 30 seconds then the fight was on to keep it running. I trouble shot timing, fuel pump (even replaced one I was sure was good) took it to a shop for diagnosis and was told that the distributor was bad. Replaced it after a local parts girl I used to work with gave me a huge break on a reman unit, only to have NOTHING change in the way it ran. Even the fuel regulator and about everything mentioned in this thread. The whole time I had a thought.. a feeling that I knew what it was, but instead I went with what other said because they "doubted" that I was right. Finally a friend of mine was using the Ft. Lewis (Army Base) facility to swap a 454 into his Chevy (in place of a 350) and got to talking to a guy who was a diehard Nissan man. He had me write down everything it did from day one and everything I had done to it (in order) and took it to him. He commended my efforts and said that I did everything that under normal circumstances you "should" do, but he said that it did not seem to be "normal" and said that he completely agreed with my belief that it was the computer that was bad. That was really what I needed, someone to agree with me for once. With a little searching and a ton of luck, I found an identical ECU in a wrecking yard for under $100 (most places wanted at least $250). Took it home, plugged it in and turned the key, she started right up (first crank) and ran perfectly! As it turned out, I had wasted a ton of money because I did not go with my gut feeling right from the beginning pssd Now I cannot say for sure that this is the problem with your truck, just figured I would toss it out. The idea of buying a replacement is not typically a cheap one... maybe you know someone with an identical truck (2Door/VG30i same transmission) that would allow you to try it before to fork over the money on something you might not need, but with that there is always the risk of your truck damaging the good computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KILLVOX Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 What does it mean when you unplug your MAF and it shuts down instantly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 (edited) What does it mean when you unplug your MAF and it shuts down instantly? I believe that's normal. Maybe it just runs like crap cause if failsafe operations Edited May 17, 2006 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 anyone know where i can pick up a used or even new maf?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 (edited) got any u-pull-it yards in your area? I think mine charges something like $20 for one if they have it. Nissans are scarce around here. Not sur eif this might help but... The procs for troubleshooting an unstable idle (in the 94ish era VG30s) are: 1. check to see if your EGR valve is sticking 2. do a power balance test by disconnecting the connector at each injector one at a time and look for any that DOES NOT cause a momentary engine speed drop 3. check fuel pressure 4. check O2 sensor 5. check for air intake leak (clamp PCV hose and see if engine speed rises) 6. check idle adjustment screw clogging 7. compression test 8. check your ECM harness connection (look for bent pins etc) I actually had a bent pin problem which was causing a malfunction in my alarm system 9. try plugging in a known good ECM (borrow from a friend) Edited May 17, 2006 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 all these problems that people have been giving me are cures for idle problems.. for starters it wont run.. it sparks and turns over and if i keep pumping the gas it will stay running but like crap.. if i dont touch the gas after it starts it dies... i cant check vacuum and all that other stuff because it will hardly run let alone idle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 patience young jedi... we're trying. Not running can be interperated as a very severe idle problem. If RPM's wanna stay too low to sustain the running condition, you'll die. milking the gas will raise the RPMs and allow it to run but not well. If you can find someone local with a similar year vehicle, you would do well to see if you could borrow their ECU for a test. Check your pins, that's easy and any number of them could cause problems. we have not given up... I'm still looking into possiblities that won't cost you a ton of money to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 i thank all you guys for your help.. its been great.. ive checked things i didnt even know i had.. haha.. but still no go.. but hey it will come.. im gonna try the injectors next.. see how that goes.. then maybe the throttle pos sensor.. see what i can do with that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 all these problems that people have been giving me are cures for idle problems.. Not all of them i thank all you guys for your help.. its been great.. ive checked things i didnt even know i had.. haha.. but still no go.. but hey it will come.. im gonna try the injectors next.. see how that goes.. then maybe the throttle pos sensor.. see what i can do with that... If you can find an ECU that you can try (hopefully free to try) I would REALLY recommened it, if for nothing else but to rule it out. -thnkboutit- I too changed the injectors and it resulted in nothing but wasted money (even after being cut a hell of a deal on them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 RedPath might be on to something. I'd hook your ECU up to a running Pathy instead of trying to sweet talk someone into letting you borrow theirs. Less liability if something does go wrong and your truck shorts it out or something. If you can't find anyone local, you could pull it and ship it to me or someone else @ NPORA with an '87 V6. I'll plug it in and see if mine fires up or runs like crap. I'm in Tampa, FL 33594 BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 Once again a member of this board offers up more help that you would likely find elsewhere:Aok: JJ Excellent idea and I commend you greatly on your offer to help. stikky p, this may seem like a risk but JJ is a good man and a longtime member of the board... a little in shipping could end in a ton of money saved or at the least confirmation that your ECU is functioning properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 you can't find anyone local, you could pull it and ship it to me or someone else @ NPORA with an '87 V6. I'll plug it in and see if mine fires up or runs like crap. I'm in Tampa, FL 33594 BTW. Thanks Jason for the insight and generous offer ! If you take him up on it, JJ won't jack you around. He's good peoples... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now