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Pathfinder Studder, Stall, & Hesitation


stikky_p
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ok... tried the distributor... turned it a little left then right to see if it would change anything timing wise... one way it made it try to stay running but reved like crap... the other way reved awesome just dies right away.... but i did notice some cheese in the coil when i checked the plug wires.. tried to clean it best... didnt help at all... im so lost... anyone need a 4x4 project?? haha... this is making me sick.. but i cant give up.

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before dumping it... make sure it's not MAF related. Just because you cleaned it doesn't mean that's not the problem. Mine had a bad connector. start it up and then pull the connector from the MAF. If it makes no difference, I would guess is that your problem is there. If it get's noticably worse, it's not the MAF connector/sensor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There's been quite a few folks (myself included) who have noticed that their engine had one of the cams a tooth off before they changed the belt, so your motor will run ok under that condition. I'm not saying the timing belt couldn't be the issue, just that it would take a bit more than one tooth to make it bog down like you say.

If you really think your belt might have jumped, why not pull it apart and take a look-see? I'm still leaning towards a sensor problem like the MAF or throttle position though.

Wish I could be more help to you, good luck.

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is there any way to check those sensors?? it wont stay running to test to see if they run worse without them plugged in or anything? anyway to test the throttle pos sensor? or even the maf ?

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if you need to fight to keep it running... to check the MAF, you can get a buddy to play with the connector while you keep it running. Let us know when you find the problem so that others may also benefit from your investigations

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I can't tell from your posts, but has the problem gotten worse, better or the same since you replaced/cleaned/checked the things you listed earlier?

 

I'm kinda out of ideas, but maybe the K.I.S.S. method (Keep It Simple, Stupid) might help:

 

Try a bottle of Dry Gas in the tank

 

Double check the plug wire locations since you replaced the dist. cap. If you're standing in front of the truck the cylinder order is:

 

5 6

 

3 4

 

1 2

 

And the dist. cap is:

 

6

2 4

 

1 5

3

 

 

Make sure you're reading/running the codes correctly. The ECU should detect a sensor problem, but maybe the truck isn't running long enough to register or something.

 

Check your vac. lines again, then check them again.

 

If none of that works, take a weekend and pull the timing cover off and be sure your base timing is right.

 

Whatever you do, don't give up. There's a few of us who are really curious to find out WTF it is!

Good luck, bud.

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by the way yeah the problem has slowly gotten worse... used to run fine.. then took a bit to get running but when was warm ran great.. then started running bad when warm too.. now it wont stay running...

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ran through a bunch of stuff again yesterday.. feels like im getting nowhere.. i think i might just start again from scratch of break down and buy that timing light to see where i stand.. of corse id have to have a friend to keep it running... btw will the timing light even work if its not constant.. if hes reving the engine up will the light work?? i may just end up riping the front off and checking the belt.. i have a weird feeling it might be that... hmmmm or injectors.. anyone know where i might be able to find a throttlebody for a 87 pathy??

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A quick check to see if you're timings in the ballpark would be to hand crank the crankshaft to the 12 degree mark then pull the dist. cap off and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug contact.

I still think you have some sort of sensor or electrical issue though seeing that it's getting progressively worse. I could be wrong, but I figure if the problem was mechanical it would have been more immediate.

 

And the dist. cap is:

 

6

2 4

 

1 5

3

 

BTW, these numbers were in a circular pattern like a dist. cap when I typed them out before. The forum must've changed them once it posted.

Edited by jj big shoe
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is it ok to look under the cap.. i dont wanna effect anything that im gonna hyave a headache getting it back.. i was told to leave the cap and rotate the shaft to see if that helped any... and it was a little lose when i twisted it.. but nevwer helped anything at all.. so i put it bacjk...

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The Distributor cap was loose... you could turn/twist left and right by hand????

 

That could be the problem... the compter controls the ignition advance, and if the cap was loose it could drastically effect the Timing/running of the engine.

Edited by Casey.T
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The distributor shoudn't be loose. Its position is what determines when the spark plugs fire. Rotating it one way or the other changes when the spark happens and that's what you're adjusting when you "do your timing".

Yes, you can remove the plastic distributor cap w/o any worries by removing the two screws on either side. Once the cap is off, you'll see the rotor. Hand crank the motor and check to see if its pointing at the #1 plug contact when the crankshaft pulley is at the 12 degree mark. That will tell you if your timing is in the ballpark or completely out of whack.

You really ought to break down and buy a cheap timing light and a Haynes manual, though. It could end up that those two things wouldv'e had you fixed three months ago.

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i have a haynes and a chilton.. just really unfamiliar with timing. ill try that crank think again tomorrow.. and the dizzy wasnt totally loose... but if i used a bit of force it would turn... but like i said.. i went from the bottom of the adjustment to the top to see if it would get better either way but didnt.. one way made it rev nicer but die right away... the other way made it chug and try to stay running but would idle like crap when i stepped on it.. if anyone has msn messenger i can send a video clip of what the engine sounds like and all that.. pm me or add me at stikky_p@hotmail.com...

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ok i unpluged the maf sensor and it still ran like crap.. plugged it back in.. ran like crap.. i looked at the plate under the dist cap and its clean... when i aligned the 12 deg mark up best i could and took off the cap the rotor was pointing in the direction of #1 now i cannot see and arrows or anything to line up it perfect on 12 deg dont know where the mark went.. i just assumed that the arrow is center and adjusted it off center to the 12 deg and is was pointing in that direction... i was told its either sensor or fuel/carb problem.. is there anything i can check carb wise or any other sensor i can check?? i dont knwo how to check those other sensors...

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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

 

Thats the ECU read out info... Didn't back read but it sounds like you are zeroing in too much... Check the ECU first. Then remember, the motor wants air, fuel, and spark, then timing, sensors and vacuum. Maybe I'm not helping but perhaps you are former one before the latter ?? Intake vacuum can be checked by something like wd-40... if the throttle increases where you spray, you have a leak. Vacuum control hoses are harder, they take visual inspection/replacement. Back up to where you KNOW basic engine needs are good, then isolate and test.

 

B

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thanks for that infor but i have tried the ecu many times.. even when it ran ok i tried and it came back all good.. normal operating blah blah... i dunno what it is.. i may have a lead with the previous owner.. he's kinda giving up info about the problems he had before too.. hopefully i can fix it.. i guess he replaced the cap and 2 wires of the 6.. all the wires look the same and in good condition.. but i did notice the screw on the rotor wasnt in all the way.. i have a new rotor but i cant seem to get the other one off.. i took out the screw but it wont pop off... it should shouldnt it?? im going to try the wires and coil next to see if there is spark.. does anyone have a easy way to do this??

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it might be.. but when i had a bad ignition coil on my civic it wouldnt even start.. this truck starts just wont stay running.. next im gonna check the wires for spark make sure its not running on only 3 cyl.. haha.. and ill check the cap and coil from there... just wondering if anyone knows any easy way to do all of this?

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