Mr. Pickles Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Here is some info on the captive bolts (rear most two) for a 95 (Should apply to 90-95 4 door. M12x1.25 BTW. 150mm should work for the 2" lift, but 180mm will work for for both)I managed to uncaptive the passenger side captive nut and had to cut through the floor to get to it. Hopefully this won't happen to you. You can see where the spot welds were and the side tabs that aligned the nut, for the spot welding, I believe. This is what it looks like down in there... When I mapped it out, I was dead on one way and horribly off on the other. I'm still not sure what I did wrong other than I did it alone. Another set of eyes should help immensely. Regardless, here is an outline (black marker) of the ID of the body mount nut housing. The rulers are so you can extrapolate the bolt center for those of you that like to measure before cutting. Yes, it is a square nut, so bring your channel locks, vice grips and get creative!! The bright side of this is that I don't have to chase down the odd metric bolts; I can use standard bolts from the hardware store. The darker side is that I have to patch 2 holes in the floor. Oh well... I haven't opened up the other side, but I'm pretty sure the lay out will be the same. I post pictures of that side when I do it. B Hopefully this helps Ok, pictures of the other side... I had to grind the nut loose with a dremel and cut off blades. That was really annoying... Most of the way through the welds, I determined that a 13/16" socket can be hammered on quite successfully then torqued to break loose the remaining welds... I found a 1/2x13x7" grade 8 bolt was a perfect replacement fit. It might be short with a 3" lift, but I'll double check. B Nice duct tape. I would recommend on further exam, just cutting in like this, and removing the stock stuff and installing grade8 or such regardless to match the block lift kits. Those rear mounts were a beast to align anyways, and we ended up cutting in anyways to torch and oil the captive nuts. As long as those rear mounts are securely bolted, they're fine and so is the body. My 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Those rear mounts were a beast to align anyways I must have really gotten lucky...all of my bolts aligned perfectly...every post preached how bad those rear mounts were and I didnt have a lick of trouble...lucky i guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 They line up just fine if you undo the old bolts FIRST, and put in the longer bolts (without blocks) right away. Just a couple of threads into the captive nuts. That allows you to lift the truck to insert the other 8 blocks, and the 2 longer bolts keep the body straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 just a question, so the two larger black bolts are only for the 93-95? Cause I was under the impression all four doors use the black bolts, but they aren't the same bolt as what is in there right now, they are much thicker, this coming from a 1991.... I feel like an idiot, i coulda SWORN someone said the black bolts are for 90-95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I'm not going to color code the bolts, but yes, the 90-95 4 door WD21s have a different (larger) rear bolt set than the 87-90 2 door WD21s. I'm pretty sure it is listed above. M12x1.25? 150mm for the 2" lift, 180mm for the 3" lift? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I'm not going to color code the bolts, but yes, the 90-95 4 door WD21s have a different (larger) rear bolt set than the 87-90 2 door WD21s. I'm pretty sure it is listed above. M12x1.25? 150mm for the 2" lift, 180mm for the 3" lift? B Im so confused....my rearmost bolts are the exact same type as the third set of bolts (front to back, the other captives) they are the same width and everything, and the black metric screw will NOT screw into the bolt of the smaller stock metric screw...gah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I'm confused too; so 2" is easier than a 3"? If I'm going to go through all of this hard work why wouldn't I do a 3" lift? I'm not a big mud bogging four wheeling junky, I mostly like the look and also the knowing if I need to run over some stuff or need to go off-road I can! So 2" or 3"? confused Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I'm confused too; so 2" is easier than a 3"? If I'm going to go through all of this hard work why wouldn't I do a 3" lift? I'm not a big mud bogging four wheeling junky, I mostly like the look and also the knowing if I need to run over some stuff or need to go off-road I can! So 2" or 3"? confused If you want to run 33's, like I do, you will need to get a 3" body lift, or cut fenders. I just finished my body lift, and although I had a horrifying experience, I'm glad I did it, cause I really do feel alot more comfortable wrenching on the pathy now that i've conquered that mountain. Personally, a 2" seems like a waste of work, when you can do more with a 3", and theres only a little bit difference. The big thing, is that with a 2" lift you don't have to mess with some junk, i.e. radiator hoses, filler hoses, Tcase shifter, alot of unbolting of hoses and such etc...but a 3" just gives you so many more options, and I would personaly hate to put a 2" in, and then change my mind in the future, and have to remove the 2", waste $$, and most of all, have to do the xtra work ANYWAYS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 but a 3" just gives you so many more options What are all those options? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 What are all those options? B Um.....33's without trimming precious sheetmetal Just that much more entrance/departure angles, gives you another inch of space to wrench on stuff, prematurely replacement or checking of radiator hoses, the glamour, more space for articulation in the rear axle..... Idk, i did the 3".....so don't judge me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 LOL, no judgement at all. The 3" lift is the most common by far, usually to fit the largest tires possible or the more is better attitude. I just wanted to understand what options I'm missing out on... If you use that extra inch of lift to fit larger tires then yes, it will make some difference. Otherwise not so much... My Pathy runs 2600-2700rpm at 65mph with 235/75/15 tires. That will be 2450-2550rpm when I install the 31" tires. 33" would kill the rpms and I don't want that for my DD. Hence a 2" lift and no 33" tires. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 If you want to run 33's, like I do, you will need to get a 3" body lift, or cut fenders.I just finished my body lift, and although I had a horrifying experience, I'm glad I did it, cause I really do feel alot more comfortable wrenching on the pathy now that i've conquered that mountain. Personally, a 2" seems like a waste of work, when you can do more with a 3", and theres only a little bit difference. The big thing, is that with a 2" lift you don't have to mess with some junk, i.e. radiator hoses, filler hoses, Tcase shifter, alot of unbolting of hoses and such etc...but a 3" just gives you so many more options, and I would personaly hate to put a 2" in, and then change my mind in the future, and have to remove the 2", waste $$, and most of all, have to do the xtra work ANYWAYS. Thanks, make sense..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 In all honesty, how much help is a 2" lift when it comes to working on the truck? I'm thinking of doing the 2" BL even though I dont' currently plan to add larger tires. Mostly looking for a little more "wiggle room". Figure I might as well do an e-fan mod while I'm in there, remove the stock radiator and mount a new one + external tranny cooler, et al. However, i'm wondering if the 2" lift first would help make things easier for me to work on... Other question - if you undo ALL the bolts, can't you, literally, take the entire body off the frame? I ask mostly for access to rust and for body work reasons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Yes you can take the body off of the frame. Magregor did it to repair rebuild his frame. Pm him and maybe he can help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I think a 2" lift is a big help with clearance and access. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 does this appear to be a Hardbody transfer case shifter? I was reading thru this thread and how it says the Hardbody shifter is 1.5" or so longer and was thinking if my shifter was that much longer how high it would be so I was wondering if maybe my pathfinder already has a Hardbody tranny transfer case in it, as my buddy replaced the tranny/transfer case when they replaced the engine?? pics of the shifter below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 so does this look like the stock height of a pathfinder transfer case shifter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Don't know if they are still available or not but after re-reading this thread wanted to add when I did the 3" body lift on my 87 Hardbody I used a kit from Trailmaster, the trailmaster body lift had aluminum body blocks and also included a longer steering shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) so does this look like the stock height of a pathfinder transfer case shifter? That looks like the reguar stock shifter. The HB would be higher and also sit closer to your stereo. EDIT: oops, I already posted these on #13 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325&view=findpost&p=345421 Edited December 6, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks for the reply, I asked about that a while ago. All these write ups about doing the body lift and using the hardbody shifter or bending/extending the pathfinder shifter raises a question. I had a hardbody with a 3" BL and we still had to heat it up and bend it in order to engage 4 low, is that because the hardbody sits higher on the frame? And is why it works in the pathfinder's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 The body mounts on the 4wd D21 are about 1.5" taller than the 2wd D21 and the WD21. A 3" BL on a 4wd D21 is the equivalent of a 4.5" BL on a WD21. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Here is some info on the captive bolts (rear most two) for a 95 (Should apply to 90-95 4 door. M12x1.25 BTW. 150mm should work for the 2" lift, but 180mm will work for for both) I managed to uncaptive the passenger side captive nut and had to cut through the floor to get to it. Hopefully this won't happen to you. You can see where the spot welds were and the side tabs that aligned the nut, for the spot welding, I believe. This is what it looks like down in there... When I mapped it out, I was dead on one way and horribly off on the other. I'm still not sure what I did wrong other than I did it alone. Another set of eyes should help immensely. Regardless, here is an outline (black marker) of the ID of the body mount nut housing. The rulers are so you can extrapolate the bolt center for those of you that like to measure before cutting. Yes, it is a square nut, so bring your channel locks, vice grips and get creative!! The bright side of this is that I don't have to chase down the odd metric bolts; I can use standard bolts from the hardware store. The darker side is that I have to patch 2 holes in the floor. Oh well... I haven't opened up the other side, but I'm pretty sure the lay out will be the same. I post pictures of that side when I do it. B Hopefully this helps Ok, pictures of the other side... I had to grind the nut loose with a dremel and cut off blades. That was really annoying... Most of the way through the welds, I determined that a 13/16" socket can be hammered on quite successfully then torqued to break loose the remaining welds... I found a 1/2x13x7" grade 8 bolt was a perfect replacement fit. It might be short with a 3" lift, but I'll double check. B ok for my bit. instaead of cutting out the floor like this. i undone the bolt and used a 6mm rod of something like that with a point on the end. just put it through the hole and hit with a hammer. it will mark the position on the floor pan and useing a hole saw i drilled out the floor pan with a nice hole. and presto. then you can access the captive nuts and when finnished you can get a nice bung to fill the hole. looks more factory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 ok for my bit. instaead of cutting out the floor like this. i undone the bolt and used a 6mm rod of something like that with a point on the end. just put it through the hole and hit with a hammer. it will mark the position on the floor pan and useing a hole saw i drilled out the floor pan with a nice hole. and presto. then you can access the captive nuts and when finnished you can get a nice bung to fill the hole. looks more factory yea thats what i did... but you just need to get the correct rear bolts from someone like mcmaster-carr and you don't have to do any cutting...Steeevo (or Steve) from Rugged Rocks Offroad is working on getting Performance Accessories to get a kit together that has the right bolts. Hit him up and see if he can help at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatMacgyver Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Sorry to dig up old posts but I plan on doing a 3 inch body lift sometime soon and have some concerns. My first concern is with the steering shaft issue and having to extend it down pretty far. Does this cause a major issue? My second concern is with knotching the body. Why do you have to knotch it with a 3" and not a 2" lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Isn't that covered in this thread? If not, searching didn't bring up the answers? Not being dismissive, and old threads are good, they keep things in one place. The steering shaft has to be extended and it can take some effort, but many people have done it without issues installing the 3" lift. It works... The shifter is a lever with a fixed pivot point. The lower you drop the pivot point (raise the body), the farther the lever has to throw to make the same movement at the pivot, and at some point it will interfere with the size of the stock hole. Some have welded/bent theirs so notching the metal is unnecessary, and I have a 2" lift with a Hardbody shifter (longer and bent slightly different as Hardbodys came with a 1.5" 'lift') and have no issues what so ever. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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