daczone Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Are there any rebuild kits for these? It appears that mine are wore out, stuck or simply not working. Also my RD has a Limited Slip sticker on it, but with 285K on the it, I'm doubtful that still works. Any test I can there short of dropping the clutch? I think I've damn near wrenched on or replace every part of this Pathfinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 The old school way of checking for LSD was to chock the front wheels, put the trans in neutral, and lift the rear tires off the ground. When you spin one of the rear wheels, an open diff will spin the other tire in the opposite direction,and a limited slip will spin the other tire in the same direction (and also turn the drive shaft). A real world test might be going to a sandy or gravely area and punch it and see what the rear does - one wheel spinning or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 ^this, and a change of fluid, specifically for LSD, might help things if it has been a while. Try removing the hubs, disassembing them (one at a time so you have an assembly reference), checking for obvious damage, reassembling with very light grease coating and trying it again. Also, download a copy of the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the garage section to get an expladed view of the assembly. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daczone Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Ah yes the fluids... I need to do that for sure including my transmission. Good tip on the disassembly. I will definitely attempt that. I didn't really want to do manual locking hubs, but will if I need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I took one of my auto hubs apart last winter, cleaned and greased it, checked the clutch thickness vs the FSM spec (and found it was worn far past spec), reassembled with the old parts, and it made it worse. Binding up, coming unlocked while driving through town in 2x and making horrible ratcheting noises like the wheel was gonna fall off, fun stuff. Upgraded to manual hubs and haven't regretted it one bit. Knowing I can shift to 4x4 on the fly without having to think over my whole drive and try to remember whether any of it was done in reverse was totally worth the hassle of having to click the hubs on and off from time to time. Then there's the ability to engage the 4x in reverse. You don't think you need it until you unexpectedly run out of traction with the front end up against something. IIRC I found a rebuild kit somewhere online and discovered it wasn't that far from the manual hubs in price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daczone Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) Anyone rebuild their autohubs? I know there is a thread here, but I wanted to check with someone that has done it. Looks like it's about $70 + $26 shipping for new clutches, thrust washers and spring. I took mine apart and it was a mess of grease, With 285k on my Pathfinder I'm sure things are worn out. I'd prefer to have autohubs over manual locking. Edited December 18, 2014 by RedPath88 Merged from "Auto Hubs" - One thread is enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daczone Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Update: I took both sides apart yesterday and couldn't really see any signs of wear. I cleaned everything, reinstalled and still no go, 4WD just isn't working. So I just bought a set of Warn manual hubs. I wanted to go with the cheaper set, but didn't like the feedback of folks breaking them because of the plastic parts. So I paid a bit more for the Warn units. Just a new set of rubber on this thing and I think I will be done... Or am I never done? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 I was surprised when I had mine apart at how minty fresh they looked (apart from the black grease). With the noises they were making, I thought for sure I'd find some damage. It wasn't until I measured the clutch thickness against the FSM that I saw how shot they were. And no, there is no done, there's just better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 The clutch thickness is the only thing you need to look at, unless there is obviously broken parts. I still have my auto hubs and they have not given me any issues. They are real nice here in the winter to not have to keep the front end spinning all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 You might be money a head by going with manual hubs. This has not been proven but you might gain a small mpg gain. With manual hubs the front end is disengaged and not turning. One advantage is you are either locked or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 The MPG gain is only for the R50s, which come with drive plates (permanently locked hubs essentially). Auto hubs disengage the front drivetrain just as well as manual hubs do, provided they're working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BACONSTRIPDOWN Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Has anyone ever put the r50 hubs on a wd21? I'm going this route hopefully today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 My former 87 hardbody had the automatic hubs, I had that truck from day one for 14 years, beat the hell out of it and went 4 wheeling multiple times per week, never had any issues with the automatic hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Has anyone ever put the r50 hubs on a wd21? I'm going this route hopefully today. The R50s have drive flanges bolted together, not hubs. I think they should install without issue on a WD21 and would be the strongest way to go. The down side is that you have no selectivity and the front CVs would be turning all the time, hurting power and mileage. The only time I can think it would be a good idea is if the WD21 is a dedicated wheeler and/or trailer queen. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BACONSTRIPDOWN Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 I got them slapped on today as well as my tire carrier. I'm loving the direction my pathy is going, I just want to save up some money for a body lift and some tires. Then maybe a rear traction device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BACONSTRIPDOWN Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I took it out today. As borat would say "great success". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daczone Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 What are you thinking for "Rear Traction Device"? Mine's got the factory LSD but doesn't seem to be working. I priced new clutches and while they are reasonable, it looks like a huge job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BACONSTRIPDOWN Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I'd like an LSD. Seen one in the junk yard last week and didn't have time to pull it. Very heart broken about it. But I might just do a lock right. I only like others gettin stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daczone Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Got my Warn hubs today... Easy enough to install. Instructions were crap. Only thing I was surprised with was that the stock Lego wheels hole needed to be made slightly larger. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Yep, I had to router mine out a bit to fit around the Milemarkers too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fergyrock Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Got my Warn hubs today... Easy enough to install. Instructions were crap. Only thing I was surprised with was that the stock Lego wheels hole needed to be made slightly larger. I've got my Warns coming today and was curious is it just the center cap you had to enlarge or the wheel itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbley11 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Pretty sure it's the center cap. You should never have to cut the wheel itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fergyrock Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 That would be my guess too, definitely don't want to mess with the center bore of the wheel without a proper machining mill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Just the center cap, the wheels are fine 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I'll stick with my warns over autos any day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now