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CDN_S4 build thread


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Ooooooo. Do tell. Which did you go with, and does this mean the unibody width for bumper mounts on face lifted R50s is the same? I saw theexbrit's write-up but wasn't sure if the widths are the same. I would think so.

 

I've searched for his write-up and have had no success in finding it...any chance you could link it in here?

Thanks

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Here you go!

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36674-xj-cherokee-bumper-mod/?hl=%2Bcherokee+%2Bbumper

 

 

While connecting some other dots, I saw that he indicates that the width for the XJ mounts are the same for his R50, while Precise1 noted in another thread that he put a brush guard for an older R50 onto his newer one (or maybe it was the other way around). In terms of mounting width, I interpret it as XJ = R50.

 

I think you meant Rough Country for your bumper, right? P/N 1057? If so, it's what theexbrit got (linked in his thread).

 

One major advantage to this particular bumper is that the mounting brackets are separate pieces. So even if the widths weren't the same, you could mount the brackets inside or outside of the tabs, and even use plate steel to adjust the width further (to an extent). Keep us posted!

 

 

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Here you go!

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36674-xj-cherokee-bumper-mod/?hl=%2Bcherokee+%2Bbumper

 

 

I think you meant Rough Country for your bumper, right? P/N 1057? If so, it's what theexbrit got (linked in his thread).

 

 

 

 

Thanks for that. Strange that I couldn't find it. Turns out I even posted in that thread. I suck! lol

 

And yes, I meant Rough Country, not Rugged Ridge. Was looking at their winches just moments before.

 

I will definitely take lots of pics and detail all the "issues" to make this thing fit. My fabricator guy is pretty good, so I'm kind of hopeful this will turn out real nice. That thread just reminded me that I'm going to have to relocate the windshield washer fluid.

 

My front HD springs should arrive tomorrow, according to UPS, so hopefully on this rainy weekend, I'll get them installed without killing myself. I hate compressing springs.

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About the washer bottle...I know theexbrit mentioned that it would look pretty stupid hanging low, but it reminded me of those Calmini prototype pics that XPLORx4 posted long ago. On the pic of their front bumper, they just spray painted the thing. It still hung down, but was much less conspicuous. I'm sure it will be hanging down more with the RC bumper, but maybe explore that option?

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And hey, while you've got that bumper off still, mind taking some basic measurements? Maybe...

1. Full width

2. Distance between the outside of the mounting tabs (i.e., space between mounting tabs + 2x tab thickness)

 

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Yeah I will see what options I'll have for the washer bottle. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

I will make sure to take plenty of pics and measurements during the process.

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Front OME HD springs are in. Plus 2" spacer from Fleury still. Technically this should be close to 4" of lift. It doesn't really look like that much. It settled as soon as I test drove it. Compare before, right after and after test drive pics:

 

d8010e775beba3814b70ad8ecc423d87.jpg

 

be2b0e3e262ddb360b307859ce8ede60.jpg

 

38a4469dc22245248df7779204f634f5.jpg

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Man that still has some rack to it! I did OME HD and 1" spacer up front only.

I drove 45 miles so far today. Settled some. But the truck is pretty level.

f2ba46b28ed37ce1fec559b6556e3a94.jpg

 

Sent from fat fingers on S6

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I wonder if the spacers cause the springs to compress more?

I am bit dissapointed in a way. At first it looked great, almost level and I was happy. But within minutes it settled into what you see in the last pic. In a way it's still good as it will be level when I tow and load it up, but once I add my jumper and winch, that will add another 150-200lbs up front. I need a SFD!!! Hawairish, I need you take make one for me lol.

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You may be at you max limit. As the CVs and Tie rod ends will only allow the lower A arm to extend so far. Considering mine were at full droop and I only had to lift the lower assembly maybe a inch, if that to get the spindle to strut bolts in. What do your front CVs look like? \ instead of -- ?

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You may be at you max limit. As the CVs and Tie rod ends will only allow the lower A arm to extend so far. Considering mine were at full droop and I only had to lift the lower assembly maybe a inch, if that to get the spindle to strut bolts in. What do your front CVs look like? \ instead of -- ?

 

oh yes my CV's are like this very angled / I have no doubt I'm maxed out the suspension travel angles. Time to get a SFD. Might just have to get the Krypton kit if I want to make progress on this. Although I will run it like this for a bit and see it performs. I'm going on an organized 3 day trip in Maine end of May. A bunch of people from over on Expo are going on this. Mostly just gravel and back country dirt road travel.

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Yup, you need an SFD.

And I need it fast!! I might get one fabbed up by my "guy". Only thing I'm not sure about how to do is the steering extension. Surely I can just reverse engineer the krypton kit.

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Yes I got it. Thanks. As long as my camber bolts and an alignment can get me straightened out, then there won't be a big rush on the SFD but it will need to be done.

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I AM TOO!!! I'm actually more confused now about SFD's after checking out the krypton kit for info. I have apox 4" of lift all around, maybe 5 in the back, but the setup is the same. OME springs and 2" spacers all around. The SFD only requires front parts, so if I were to go with the 4" SFD, would I have to revert back to my Nissan springs? Otherwise I'm going to be sitting at 5-6" inches up front. I suppose I would have to lose the front strut spacers. But then again, the kit comes with strut spacers. This is where I get confused. Would I then be able to keep my suspension set up as is now, but drop the sub frame through spacers and a steering link extension only?

Thanks

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Would I then be able to keep my suspension set up as is now, but drop the sub frame through spacers and a steering link extension only?

 

Yes.

 

You basically have three options:

1. KRFabs #1. Don't use the included strut spaces, but use the subframe/motor mount spacers and steering link. Keep existing OME springs and strut spacers.

2. KRFabs #2. Use entire kit and stock springs. Don't use OME springs or current strut spacers.

3. Custom SFD. Fab what you need, keep everything you currently have, for half what the KRFab kit costs.

 

Keep in mind you'll still need to fab a spacer if you want to keep your purdy skid plates (#3 includes instructions on how to keep that and still under $250).

 

I'm crafting a PM response with the details. Sit tight.

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This is what my CV joints look like. Far from straight but should I be concerned for DD? I'm not doing any serious off-road until I have the SFD installed. I do get the occasional "clunk" or "Pop" from the passenger front side. My sway bar bushings are pretty much toast so I attribute it to that. I'm just hoping it's not the CVs. Although I looked them up and they can be had for $100 a pop so not bad at all. Should they be changed anyway every 100.000km or so? Might just do them when I get the SFD.

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