NissanNismoZ Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Yep..its practically leaking out as soon as i put it to it..also, when its installed on the truck it makes a purring noise anyway...ill probably just cap it since it doesnt do anything but steal my air power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 You can bypass the BPT valve easily. Just disconnect it from the t-fitting and cap the t-fitting. I would just bypass the entire EGR system until you can get another BPT valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Ugh..now its back to waiting. Letting the EGR sit all night in Carb cleaner still results in me having to pump it a few tines before leaving or it falls on its face. Can't afford a new EGR and the junkyard doesn't have one. Ha. Who knows maybe the people junked that Pathy because of its EGR and I grabbed one in the same condition as mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Toss it in the can and plug the holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Looks like im cutting up a can and blocking it off until i can either get a new one or get a plate made.i think messing with the EGR by pumping it may have cracked or ripped the diaphragm because now it wont even reach over 45mph on flat ground! ah well. itll work until i can get it fixed properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Pepsi to the rescue! I cut it to fit the EGR gasket exactly and put it in and at first it idled way down..to where it was showing 0 RPM and an occaisional bump..tehn straightened itself out..either way its better than before. I know this isnt permanent but its going to work until i can get a block-off plate made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 So i made a REAL block-off plate today, and used some RTV sealant to seal it off, and bolted in the EGR to hold it tight.. i let it sit for an hour and test drove it..meh. it's doing some better but it's still not right..there's still that hesitation.. Looks like i'll be re-adjusting my TPS... Also, i've noticed my exhaust tick is extremely loud lately....can that cause a power loss..? I have a friend with the same year pathy with an exhaust leak and in need of new plugs/wires and it still outdoes mine by a LOT. Acceleration used to be to 3k rpm..and id be up to speed..lately i have to drive it up to 4500 to get anywhere 'fast' It just seems like the less pedal i give it, the better off it is..so im guessing the TPS may be adjusted just a hair too far? can the TPS adjustment mess with it this much? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 How did you block the exhaust manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 Its not, its just conntected to the EGR. I don't have a way of blocking it yet. Good news: I actually adjusted the TPS until it finally idled right (my multimeter can't stick in the connector far enough to read voltage... ) So I adjusted it by test drives of most power..and hesitation is gone! It idles at 550 - 600 rpm instead of shuddering at 450rpm. I will adjust it properly as soon as I figure out how to get my multimeter to read it..ill do it properly. It actually just spun in wet pavement. Ill give more results when I get it adjusted right.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) Oh ok... So there is a plug between the intake manifold and EGR valve? Keep playing with the TPS sensor, you should have good results soon. Edited July 16, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 It should spin easily on wet pavement. On my way to work I never really go past 3000rpm and I'm keeping up with traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Okay..can someone please help me? I need clarification on how to adjust my TPS... Okay, so. At idle, it was reading 4.23v...ok so i shut it off and review the FSM..it says it should read .4 - .6 volts. 4 volts seems way too high..so i open the throttle wide open, and adjust it to .49v and take it on a test drive.. WOW. HUUUUGE power increase..but wait. Why does it shift so late and why do i have to let WAY off the pedal for it to shift now? Can someone clarify on how its supposed to be adjusted, and maybe a picture of their TPS adjustment...? It would be really appreciated...Thanks! Here's a pic of my adjustment now...: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fman Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 this shows the basics hope it helps 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) Aha. So, apparently i hooked my leads backwards.. I find it shifts smoothly at .50v and tada! Power is restored. I'll confirm this tomorrow after its had time to cool down..but so far, so good! Thanks fMan for the video! Edited July 19, 2012 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 That's the manual TPS, correct? IIRC the auto has some kind of potentiometer as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fman Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 That's the manual TPS, correct? IIRC the auto has some kind of potentiometer as well. yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Nope, it's the auto TPS Well, i mean mine has the auto, the on e in the video does look to be the manual one. Edited July 20, 2012 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 Okay..so. I can confirm it feels like most power is back but the hesitation problem is back now I was backing out of my driveway and felt it stumble unless I let off slightly or push it harder.. so what could this be? Sometimes it feels like I have to fluctuate the pedal some when it's feeling powerless..any ideas? I noticed the manual Pathy doesn't have a potentiometer..so does that mean the auto's tps has no effect on fuel mixture? Thanks. Just trying to track my problem down..unless the maf is screwing up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Was the engine warmed up (above C mark) when you were backing out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 Engine was cold, it only seems to do it when its on its cold start phase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 If you have a bigger aftermarket exhaust and/or a cold air intake that's normal. The hesitation should be gone when you hit the C mark. The issue here is the MAF sensor reading a value that's slightly off to the factory ECU programming. Once the engine warms up and the oxygen sensor starts sending data to the ECU, everything goes back to normal. If you don't have any mods, I would check for the exhaust leaking or an intake leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I do have a CAI. So I guess that could be it..but I do wonder ..when it started hesitating it would sometimes go back to full power or bog.. since this adjustment it hasn't bogged yet, but I'm worried it will as it seems there's still some power loss up hills..but 90% better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Check for any carbon deposits around exhaust manifold studs and such. Exhaust leaks will really screw things up for a computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Yep..i think you got it now..ugh. My exhaust studs are broken worse im guessing by how loud it is now.. Looks like ill have to dish more money into that part..as long as thats the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I was quoted 200-300$ to do the job..is that bad? And worth it? I really want to know if leaking studs can cause a power loss..thanks guys.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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