Jump to content

New issues...


NissanNismoZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

So..figured out that the exhaust isn't clogged..and its actually extremely loud with no muffler. Ouch.

So..I could t bring it home with it still acting like that. Going g to try checking fuel pressure while driving and seeing how it goes. Thanks everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking the fuel pump from the start. I had a 89 toyota celica a few years back that was acting almost the same. It slowly started losing power, would be fine with little throttle, but when I gave it a lot of throttle it would bog down. It got to the point where it would die at stops, I had to adjust the throttle cable for it to stay idling. Eventually it got to the point where I couldnt get it over 3500 rpm's, it would start to die, and over time it the rpm got lower and lower. Eventually it got to the point that if I touched the pedal it would die. Then it wouldnt start anymore. Replaced the pump and it was good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine started acting dodgy a few weeks ago when it was almost out of gas... turned out the fuel pump sucked some crud out of the tank. The shop was able to clean out the pump and it's worked flawlessly since. It wouldn't even start unless you floored it, and when it did start, it sounded horrible. It was still pushing fuel (as my dad found out when he undid the fuel line and got squirted), but I guess it just wasn't enough.

 

Unless you've been filling up with some really nasty gas, the filter should be fine. I haven't changed mine since I got the truck, and I don't think we even changed it then... come to think of it, I should probably swap that out soon. :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed the fuel filter because the plastic fitting snapped off. I had the original 1991 fuel filter up until 2007. Then I changed the fuel filter again recently because the cheap replacement rusted. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did some testing..turned out to be the Knock sensor. Ugh.

its going to be a job..but its gotta be done..

Any tips? Going to get the part Wednesday and start on it 8am that morning and hope to get it done before nightfall..

Thanks everyone. Hope this long thread helps someone with the same problems in the future..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a write up in the how to section. I remember some people did it or said they could do it without taking the entire intake manifold off. At least you know what it is though.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Already one step ahead. I have both upper and lower intake gaskets ordered. :)

And yeah, i found the thread you were talking about, and they said they could reach under the lower intake and replacing the knock sensor that way..

I doubt i'll be that lucky, but im going to try it.

Thanks! Starting as soon as the parts come in tomorrow morning around 7:30. Hopefully ill have it done before nightfall and get to drive it home!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it is possible to get the knock sensor off without pulling the whole manifold. You need a small short ratcheting end wrench. I think its either 12mm or 10 mm not sure on that. There is just enough clearance to get the bolt out of the block and pull the sensor and the bolt out if you have small hands.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it is possible to get the knock sensor off without pulling the whole manifold. You need a small short ratcheting end wrench. I think its either 12mm or 10 mm not sure on that. There is just enough clearance to get the bolt out of the block and pull the sensor and the bolt out if you have small hands.

Good luck.

Or use a magnetic/Claw pickup tool

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ended up taking both intakes off..as I couldnt feel it..so..I find..the knock sensor is gone! I can't even find a connector ..unless its the one taped up, looking like a professional taped it up or factory taped up.. anyway. That plugin is a two prong, with only one prong in there.

 

All I can find is a few acorns..can anyone help?? I'm so lost..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... gone? :blink:

 

Unless somebody stole your knock sensor during your drive, it doesn't sound like it's a new problem... if the taped connector is broken, maybe somebody tried to fix it once, realized it would run without it, and decided not to buy the part? I thought it would throw a code without it, though...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The connector is fine..mynguess is they taped it.to prevent it from getting broken.. so now after work I'm going to rethread the hole (crammed with rust) and hope forvthe best. So now I'm at square one. I know a knock sensor wont cause it to run the bad..or the lack of one. I don't know why my CEL doesn't stay on all the time then..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No progress yet. Trying to scramble around and source parts for the bypass hose and injector seals isn't easy.. looks like ill be pulling the seals from the jy early in the morning and start finishing it up and hoping the new knock sensor helps it..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally..got it all assembled with tons of cuts and bruises..but eh. Hoping it would be all worth it..got everything hooked up and it wouldn't run! Kept turning it over and over..several times and advanced the timing all the way advanced and it finally ran good!

The power up hills.

did not change. New knock sensor has made a little change (quieter..no more loud pinging sound)

But. It has absolutely no power at all! Sometimes it struggles to reach 20mph to accelerate.. the only thing it can be is fuel pump..right? It puts out enough pressure..but its still running extremely lean..I can't run a volume test as I have nothing to test that with.. Thanks everyone..its like the fuel pump just fails under load..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got a fuel pump. Guaranteed for a year or my.money back. I noticed the 89 I grabbed this from had two fuel gauges.. and this gas sender has two sending units on it.

Is this.compatible with the 95? Can I just swap that sending unit in for mine?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Woo!!!! GOOD NEWS!!!

The Pathy is finally FIXED!!!

Ok. So I pull my tank cluster and notice the intank filter is clogged right at the in-line.. and I mean full of little black.particles.. so I clean it, really well and assemble it all, check for leaks with key on and start it and TADA! It idled with a miss that went away after driving it some. But. It actually accelerated again!!!! It finally coasts at 2k rpm and can accelerate at that range again!! Pathy is finally fixed and ready to go roughly 2 months and 200$ later. Thank you EVERYONE for your input! I really appreciate it all. I couldn't be more happy.

Edited by NissanNismoZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Woo!!!! GOOD NEWS!!!

The Pathy is finally FIXED!!!

Ok. So I pull my tank cluster and notice the intank filter is clogged right at the in-line.. and I mean full of little black.particles.. so I clean it, really well and assemble it all, check for leaks with key on and start it and TADA! It idled with a miss that went away after driving it some. But. It actually accelerated again!!!! It finally coasts at 2k rpm and can accelerate at that range again!! Pathy is finally fixed and ready to go roughly 2 months and 200$ later. Thank you EVERYONE for your input! I really appreciate it all. I couldn't be more happy.

 

You can mark this experience down as a future helpful comment to one of us when we go through similar issues. Thanks for your update and keeping NPORA worthy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a little too excited..drove another Pathy that really needed a tune-up..and it had a lot more power than mine!

I found out today mine has more power to the point of it being drivable..but I still have no WOT. It just bogs.. I can't pass people up hills, still with the harder I push the pedal the less power I get.. BUT. It isn't as bad. But its still there.

Today, I thought I would put the timing back to where it was (right now it is FULLY) advanced..and..it just dies. It will NOT run anything under fully advanced.. any ideas?? Swapped their coil for mine and no difference..

I hate that I said it was fixed and it reared its ugly head on me today!

So what I'm asking now is: What would make it run on nothing BUT fully advanced base timing??

Thanks.. I appreciate you guys bearing with me.on this..and to whoever figures this one out (I know it isn't much) but I will GLADLY PayPal you 10$

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try resetting the ECU by pulling the battery cable. I am pretty sure that your ignition system is fine. Did you get a knock sensor in there? Do the fuel injectors work properly? Any more vacuum leaks?

If your timing is always fully advanced you are just still not getting enough fuel in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...