Towncivilian Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Well, it should be fine, certainly better than a clogged one. It's also in an easily accessible place, so if you have a problem with it you can swap it out with an OEM one. On my VQ35 the PCV valve is buried under the lower intake manifold, so using anything but OE would be unwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Hah yeah, it took seriously no longer than 3 mins to swap. I would have been stupid to not have tried a new one.. Wow! Thats about like the knock sensor on the VG30E. It sucks. Though now i can say i can rremove the upper and lower intakes and put them all back on in less than 2-3 hours...LOL. Now i just need to see what/which injectors are dirty..somehow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Have you ran a couple tankfuls Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner yet (not the ProGuard injector cleaner, that's weaker stuff)? It's such a giant thread and it's been a while I don't remember if you have yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 I ran through one bottle.. But that was it, should I try more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 It wouldn't hurt to run a couple more tankfuls, especially since Techron is often buy one get one (or buy one get another for $1) at some auto parts store any given month. WalMart has a $2 manufacturer coupon on their Techron bottles so you can go peel one off and use that at the parts store to save a couple bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Alright ill do that! Should I put in a half tank, near empty or on a full tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) Shouldn't matter either way, just allow the cleaner to soak, don't burn through the whole tank very quickly like you would on a long highway trip. It cleans more effectively if it sits and soaks. Edited August 24, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Oh. Yeah I put it in and drive it hard until I was nearly out of gas.. That does make sense.. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 Question.. Is it possible to look at an injector and tell if it's dirty? Also.. I've been thinking about it.. Doesn't the floor of injectors run in a series.. Say how it starts in the flow at injector 5 and ends at 6..right? So if 5 is dirty.. Wouldn't thay block flow to the rest of the injectors? Just an idea.. Is there even like a pressurized can of something I can run the engine off of and clean them?? Maybe let it soak into the fuel rail? I really don't have the patience to remove the intake again.. So is that possible?? Thanks. I swear something has to change with it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 YES YES YES! Okay, so i was also advised to replace the TPS, as it has some say so in injector timing as well (and my tranny was shifting way too far down sometimes for no reason) anyway, and i replaced the fuel filter, so remember how before this, it was running too lean? Now its running too rich! Weird for me to be excited for, but FINALLY something says my injectors are fine. I pulled all my plugs and checked them all and they're all brown and smell like fuel. YES! So, another member advises me yet again, any leak before the O2 causes it to run rich. So i DO have another exhaust leak at the Y-pipe, again. Ill be getting it fixed and hopefully this fixes it!! I also put the timing back a tooth to where it was, and back to fully advanced at that level. Here's a pic of how the plugs looked: I also remade my acceleration video, and my 'problem' video. Acceleration: http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb9/Nismo_Nissan_350Z/?action=view¤t=VID_20120825_164646.mp4 Problem: http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb9/Nismo_Nissan_350Z/?action=view¤t=VID_20120825_164245.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Sounds like a rich mixture problem to me. You need to make sure there are absolutely zero leaks before the oxygen sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 My manifolds were said to be warped, but I can't seem to find any leak coming out of them. But it is definitely leaking around the y-pipe area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 my exhaust leaks at the y pipe... tho mine seems fine... and now that i fed it some chevron fuel its pepped up some. fixing the leak is worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 Ok, I'm seriously convinced its a timing problem.. But what do I do now? I don't know how to check every point to make sure everything is in time. It makes no sense that I had to advance it a whole tooth for it to even run OK. Techically as far as I advanced it it shouldn't even run because (remember I don't know too much about combustion) it should be firing early enough to push the pistons down before they can even come up, not run better! Again I don't know, but I would like if someone could clarify all this for me.. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 I remember from Mr. 510's VG34 thread that he'd advanced the timing on his VG30 pretty far to get a little more power out of it. Combustion doesn't happen instantly... all engines (at least that I've seen/read about) fire before top dead center. This gives the fuel time to really get burning before it has to push the piston down. (Advance too far, though, and you get knocking.) With a lousy fuel mix, maybe there's more room for improvement. And again, maybe there's something wrong with the dizzy. The engine's supposed to run a little rich during open loop, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Is the dot on the gear lined up? Did you ever check the timing belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 Yep, at cyl. 1 TDC the timing marks are still roughly (judging like a clock) around 15mins away.. So obviously something is off on timing and I've finally given up hope on it.. I'm going to sell it and get a black Pathy I've been looking at for a while.. As long as the test drive goes ok. I can't afford to dump anymore money into it, and hopefully it'll get the attention it needs.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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