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Scott.T

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Everything posted by Scott.T

  1. Thanks for that. Ill have to do this to my rear bumper. Now I just cant wait to find somewhere around here to take it off roading.
  2. I will figure something out, even if I have to weld it in place.
  3. I installed the 3 inch body lift. Now trying to figure out what I need to do to mount the front bumper. The right front blinker went out so I went to replace the bulb and it was corroded and would not come out of the socket, I ended up breaking it. I looked around at the local junk yards and on craigslist for another with no luck. I finall got one from an older toyota t100 truck and made it work.
  4. I just installed a 3 inch body lift and was trying to install the front bumper. I cant figure out how it is suppose to go on. I read the above and looked at the pictures and tried to do the same thing but my bumper brackets are different. I tried hooking up the bracket extensions in different ways but they do not line up with the bolt holes on the frame. Is this a common issue?
  5. How do you extend the steering shaft? I have the lift installed I just need to hook the steering shaft back up and I cant get it to extend. Ive tried using a hammer and nothing. The shaft should extend without loosening the upper bolt right?
  6. That is understandable. I figured if it is just length I could probably pick up a set of grade 8 bolts that are the correct length. I was mainly wanting to know if it was the length of the bolts that was the difference between the 2 kits.
  7. I am looking at purchasing a 3 inch body lift tomorrow. I was looking at this kit here: http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/index.htm?stocknumber=4053+PA. I have heard the the rear bolts were different for the 93-95. Are the bolts needed for the 93-95 longer? If so how much longer? There is that kit for $122 and there is one at 4x4parts.com that is for a 95 for $155. I was just hoping to save a few bucks and see what the difference was. If its just a longer bolt I could probably buy it at tractor supply. Thanks
  8. I bought a set of 4 15x10 sawblade wheels with 3.75 backspacing with some 33x12.50 dayton timberline a/t's with about 50-60% tread for $250. Trimmed up the front fenders a bit with a friend and mounted the wheels and this is without a lift and they fit great. Tomorrow I will be buying a 3 inch body lift.
  9. I used penzoil conventional 5w30 and a purilator oil filter
  10. It has 210,xxx miles right now. When the ticking is heard there is no loss in power, it runs exactly the same, just makes the noise, it goes away shortly after driving at slower speeds, I would say within a minute or so. It runs strong and smooth, just has the normal ticking sound from a cold startup that only lasts a few seconds. This other ticking sound does not sound like that though.
  11. Every once in a while when I take off from a stop the truck will make a grinding sound that will last for 1-2 seconds. During this period of grinding it seems to cut accessory power, the radio turns off but the truck stay running. It really only does it in first gear, sometimes 2nd if I do a rolling stop and take off in second. It seems to only do it when the rpm's are low on take off. Has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas? Thanks
  12. I have looked for a while and couldnt find threads pertaining to my tapping sound. When driving the truck around town and the back roads from anywhere up to 60 mph it is fine. If I drive on the interstate at 70+ for any period of time it makes a tapping sound. I usually dont notice the tapping sound until I come to a stop after driving those speeds, if I rev up the tapping gets faster. Once I start driving at the normal speeds or 45-55 mph the tapping dies down and goes away. It has been doing this since I have bought it but I havent payed no mind to it since I rarely drive on the interstate. I was thinking it could be spark knock? I do get a CEL light every once in a while with 2 codes, one for the knock sensor and the other for egr. I figure it would more likely be the knock sensor causing this problem. I have read though that it is a common problem for our trucks to get knock sensor codes every once in a while and it be nothing, a bad connection or something. From what I have read as long as it idles fine and not dying at stops that the knock sensor is usually still working fine, so its not worth replacing it since it is a pita to do. What are your guys's takes on this? Could it be something else, spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor? I havent given it a tuneup since I bought it, just gave it a seafoam treatment, changes the oil and transmission fluid so far. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
  13. I hooked up that other wire to the first starter wire and now the truck starts much easier.
  14. Thank you for this info. I have noticed that it doesnt start as easily, I figured it was due to that wire, I havent hooked it up yet though. I will do that tomorrow.
  15. I thought about doing this but for the starter switch. I originally put one of those switches on the center console this morning, it was a spring back switch, no cover. When I got home I decided to change it around, now I have the floor switch, looks like the old hi beam/low beam switch. There is no point in doing this for the ignition switch, my setup is great, it cant accidentally be turned on or off. If I did this for the ignition toggle, it could easily be bumped and turned off. Those switch covers are spring loaded so once they start going they snap closed which wouldnt be good if I was driving. I do like the look of it though, people would be like *ooh, what happens when you flip that switch?* People might be scared to touch it lol.
  16. Well I wired up a toggle switch and push start switch today. It was very easy. I took the plastic off around the steering column and took off the ignition piece that has the 5 wires on it. Here are the color codes on mine: White with red= Constant 12v battery Blue= Accessory Black with white= Ignition Black with yellow= Starter Black with green= ? Im guessing it is a second starter wire according to that wire chart I posted in a previous post. I used a 2 position aircraft toggle switch, it locks into position so if I bump it I dont have to worry about it shutting off, I have to pull the switch out then flip it to its on or off position. I took the accessory and ignition wires (blue and black with white wires) and twisted them together and put a terminal lug on them and attached to one side of the toggle switch, and the 12v battery wire to the other side. I also wired in an aircraft circuit breaker that gets the 12v battery power before the toggle switch. I installed this just incase someone ever comes along and wants to steel it and figures out it is to started by the toggle, they wont be able to start it without that breaker being pushed in. I have that hidden lol. For the push button I ended up using an aircraft floor microphone switch and mounted it to the floor by the peddles. I ran the power wire to one side and the starter wire (black with yellow) to the other. I ran the power wire off of the accessory and ignition side of the toggle switch, this way the starter cant be engaged unless the toggle switch is in the "on" position. The black with green wire I didnt use. I have tried hooking it up in different areas and it didnt change anything. I also bypassed the clutch interlock switch so I dont have to hold the clutch with one foot and press the start switch with the other. The whole setup is working great. I left the factory ignition switch in the "on" position too keep the steering wheel from locking. The ignition switch is broke so I was always able to start it and pull the key out. I also cut one of the 2 wires that run to the front of the ignition switch to keep it from beeping at me because it thinks the keys are left in after the truck is off. It was a pretty easy project and I am happy with the way it turned out.
  17. Well I will probably experiment with it tomorrow, see what I can come up with if no one has a definite answer. Thanks for your input.
  18. I found a wiring chart: http://alarmsellout....R 1991-2005.pdf. The 95 pathfinder chart is on page 4. So I am thinking I would have to hook the 12 volt constant wire to one side of the toggle switch, and hook the ignition wire and accessory wire to the other side of the toggle switch, would this be correct? Now the part that is confusing me is there are 2 starter wires. I am thinking I would have to run a jumper wire from the hot side of the toggle to one side of the push start switch and hook up one or both starter wires on the other side of the push start switch. Does this sound correct? or would a starter wire go on each side of the push start switch along with the hot wire on one side? Thanks.
  19. I am wanting to install an ignition toggle switch and a push button crank on my 95 XE. Has anyone done this? I was hoping someone would be able to tell me what wires need to go to the switch and which ones go to the push button. Thanks in advance for the help.
  20. Happy 4th everyone! I wont be doing anything except for some disc golf maybe and watch the firework show tonight with the family. Cant light off our own fireworks here because of a ban due to the drought. If you are drinking, hide your keys and let someone else light off the fireworks. Stay safe everyone!
  21. It is getting really hot around here and my A/C doesnt work. It probably just need to be recharged but I am too cheap to buy the kit. Windows down works alright lol
  22. I replaced the front brake pads. While I was removing the driver's side, the pads were stuck to the rotor. I had to pry them off and then they crumpled. I had noticed it would pull to the left while driving, and pull hard left when braking. I put the new pads on and tried to compress the pistons and one was seized. No matter how hard I tried it wouldnt budge, so I replaced that too. Now the truck stops great and hold a straight line and is smoother.
  23. Ran a wire straight off the battery to the radio deck, spliced it into the 12 volt memory wire since there was no power running through it due to me accidentally cutting a couple wire bundles that I mentioned earlier. Now my radio and dash clock work again. It is great to have music again.
  24. I thought that I might have missed a wire also but I spent a couple ours in there yesterday searching and rechecking all the wires, ripped the panels off of both sides and cant find anything.
  25. I was thinking the fuel pump from the start. I had a 89 toyota celica a few years back that was acting almost the same. It slowly started losing power, would be fine with little throttle, but when I gave it a lot of throttle it would bog down. It got to the point where it would die at stops, I had to adjust the throttle cable for it to stay idling. Eventually it got to the point where I couldnt get it over 3500 rpm's, it would start to die, and over time it the rpm got lower and lower. Eventually it got to the point that if I touched the pedal it would die. Then it wouldnt start anymore. Replaced the pump and it was good.
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