adamzan Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 You only need to replace the rods if they've worn through badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 mine were so worn they snapped, i cant get the rusted bolts out though, does anyone have some tricks for this? i dont have air impact or a torch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 the 2 that go through the lower control arm? Soak them in PB Blaster or equivalent, have any way to heat them? or worse thing cut or grind the heads off. I would cut the head off the bolts as close to the arm as you can get, than use a grinder to take off some more of the bolt head, until you can use a punch to knock the remaining bolt head through the hole, yes you would need to get new bolts and nuts of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 try a 24 inch breaker bar, thats what I had to do, and had to push it with both feet to get them to break Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 ^thats what I used 2' 1/2" breaker bar but I didn't have to push it with my feet then again, I blasted them with penetrant (orange can from princess auto) the night before, 2-3 hours before, and right before I did it. Only one rusted in but with some love with a rubber mallet it came out. I highly recommend (if you have 10$ and want the job to go by 3 times quicker) is a RATCHETING 15/16th wrench!! I was only able to turn it 1/6th of a turn every time... Pita Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 I highly recommend (if you have 10$ and want the job to go by 3 times quicker) is a RATCHETING 15/16th wrench!! I was only able to turn it 1/6th of a turn every time... Pita yep, wish I would have had one, woulda been alot quicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeph Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 did this job over the weekend, thanks for the write up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Just did this yesterday, very very happy that I did and that this write up was available. The hole in the frame bracket was about 1.5x the normal size allowing the bar to slap around in there and make an awful clatter. Thanks for the info, any longer and I fear it would have been the end of the bar and possibly causing an accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC95Pathfinder Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 (edited) I am in the process of doing mine now, while tightening up the nut on the end of the rod I noticed it was bottoming out before it went as far down the rod as the other side. I compared the new parts to the old and found the new spacers are about 3/8 of an inch longer than the old ones. The new bushings are quite a bit thicker than the old ones as well. Not sure if the difference in bushing thickness is just due to age or if they might be made thicker than the originals as well. I have one side done and wanted to get some input before I do the other side in case I needed to pull it back apart. What do you think? Edited March 27, 2014 by NC95Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Your old bushings have definitely shrunk from being pounded and under pressure. Are the new ones dealership items? It shouldn't matter that the new pieces are longer, what matters is that the bushings are properly in place and loaded so they carry the position of the bushing sleeve/rod. Do you get any movement out of the rod end or bushings and are they compressed? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC95Pathfinder Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 The new bushings are from Auto Zone since I work there. The bushings are compressed and everything is tight. was just hoping that they would be compressed enough to stay that way in the long run. It seemed to drive ok on yesterday's test drive and the ride to and from work today. The pull to the left is now less pronounced and it doesn't wander as much on uneven road surfaces like it did. The pic I posted was from the passenger side, it didn't look that bad, but the driver side one was worn through the sleeve and the rear half of the bushing came out in two pieces so it was definitely in need of replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Ok, it sounds like you are ok, and they might last reasonably long. The option would be to shorten the sleeve a little as well. Personally, I think those bushings should be a 60k mile/5 year maintenance item at least. I have seen so many broken, rusted through, bushing cups gone and holes ovaled out that it is rediculous! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC95Pathfinder Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Thanks B. The bushing cups were in good shape and no damage to the holes either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 This is what happens when you don't change the bushings. The broken one is off of the drivers' side: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Are these the same on the R50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I just had a look at the '03 manual. The lower control arm has a standard round bushing at the front and something weird at the back, but it's a different kind of weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 I am thinking of doing this. I've been wanting to start atleast trying to learn how to do front end work and start trying to replace all those bushings and tie rod ends and ball joints and stuff but it seems / looks incredibly intimidating. After reading this particular write up atleast I think I can pull this one off and I'm looking forward to doing it. I've seen bits and pieces on other threads about poly-urethane bushings? I guess as opposed to natural rubber bushings? I'm gonna have to research this. After replacing the front compression rod bushings, what can I expect to change in the ride of the vehicle, will it be smoother or less jarring over bumps? What's the benefit, other than keeping the front end tight(er). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 It'll track better. When the bushings are shot the LCAs are allowed to move back and forth causing a pull one way or the other on uneven surfaces. When they're really really shot the tires can wobble like mad after smacking a pot hole or something like that AKA "death wobble." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Then there is where they have egged out the hole through the frame, lost the bushing cups and corroded enough that the rods snap. Nothing wrong with the design, but they should be checked at reasonable intervals (I recommend 60k miles) and more frequently in salt country. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 as Précise says... don't drive them around worn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolut Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 I am going to fix my struts and I have a question. I am going to weld on bearing races. Searching the forum, I found that 2 types of races being used, LM67010 and L68111. Are there any differences between the races? I have the L68111 race. Thanks, Jörgen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Thankfully, Timken is a forward thinking company that readily supplies all dimensions and information. I'm going to let you determine the difference because I have a headache... http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-29320 L68111 http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-28644 LM67010 Sorry, I have no idea which is better or if they are so close that it doesn't matter. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolut Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 (edited) Thanks , that was useful! They are the same. The dimension Da=55,9 mm (2.24 in) on both races. Edited July 17, 2015 by jolut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now