NC95Pathfinder

Thanks B. The bushing cups were in good shape and no damage to the holes either.

The new bushings are from Auto Zone since I work there. The bushings are compressed and everything is tight. was just hoping that they would be compressed enough to stay that way in the long run. It seemed to drive ok on yesterday's test drive and the ride to and from work today. The pull to the left is now less pronounced and it doesn't wander as much on uneven road surfaces like it did. The pic I posted was from the passenger side, it didn't look that bad, but the driver side one was worn through the sleeve and the rear half of the bushing came out in two pieces so it was definitely in need of replacement.

I am in the process of doing mine now, while tightening up the nut on the end of the rod I noticed it was bottoming out before it went as far down the rod as the other side. I compared the new parts to the old and found the new spacers are about 3/8 of an inch longer than the old ones. The new bushings are quite a bit thicker than the old ones as well. Not sure if the difference in bushing thickness is just due to age or if they might be made thicker than the originals as well. I have one side done and wanted to get some input before I do the other side in case I needed to pull it back apart. What do you think?

When I was having problems with my cruise control I tried taking it all apart and cleaning it, even tried to stretching the contact springs a little, that didn't work. What finally worked for me was cutting sections of vacuum hose about 1/8" long and putting them on the screws behind the ring plate, basically pushing the plate up toward the contacts. Haven't had any problems with it since.

I get a similar noise in mine, I believe it has something to do with air pressure in the fuel tank. When that happens I can open the fuel cap, hear the pressure escape and the noise stops.

If you're getting a code for the O2 sensor you should replace it. Mine went bad and it made a big difference in mileage. Another thing I found on mine was the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator had come loose, making the regulator act as if it were at full throttle all the time. I'm still only getting about 15 mpg, but that's mostly city driving, better than the 10 mpg I was getting.

I work at autozone and it is a normally stocked part for us. Part number 231134. You might want to check with their web site to verify that it's the right part.

I know I haven't been on in a while, but these forums have saved me a lot of money. Hope my little bit helps.

As tempting as it sounds my budget won't let me do it on short notice. It would be about an 800 mile round trip for me depending on what part of obx you're going to. I do have a question tho, what type of tires do you use there? My mom is retiring in April and moving from CA to MI and would like to make a side trip there if time allows.

I work in the Matthews area, maybe once Uwharrie opens up in April we can try to get a few others from the area to head up for a day or a weekend.

Here's the latest on the electric fan. I've finally got around to actually finishing mounting the electric fan inside the Pathfinder fan shroud. Lack of funds and the fact that the pathfinder is still in the transmission shop (they can't figure out why it will only go into reverse intermittently) has kept me from getting much done.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14826 Could this be the problem? OK, it works now.

Have a safe trip. Thanks again for the parts.

Off-Highway Vehicle Trails Places to Ride describes off-highway vehicle riding areas and motocross tracks in and around Oklahoma: www.places2ride.com/offroad_okla.htm Little Sahara State Park in northwest Oklahoma is a popular area for ATV and dune buggy riding: http://cust.iamerica.net/dmiller/ An article on serious four-wheeling in the Kiamichi Mountains near Clayton, OK : www.4x4now.com/trokc97.htm Oklahoma Hiboy Four Wheel Drive Association: http://members.xoom.com/OHFWDA/NF.html Oklahoma Cross Country Racing Association races are run over a variety of natural terrain tracks: www.occra.com/ Tulsa Trail Riders Inc. provides events, trail rides, and is helping to develop a new multi-use riding area: www.tulsatrailriders.com/ that's just some info I pasted from americantrails.org

I used 3" lift JGC springs on mine which gave me 4-5" of lift in the back. I did have to drop the parking brake cable brackets and the ABS sensor wire about 1 1/2" and I still need to put in a panhard rod drop bracket. It does sit higher in the back now, but it should settle down a bit as time goes by. I've had them on there for a couple months and they have settled about 1/2". They are procomp springs, part number 57001.

This is the one I have on mine. Curt Class III receiver

Here's a couple of pages from the '95 FSM, hope it helps.

Maybe we can try to make a Charlotte run 4/21 or 4/22. Bassomatic wants to go as well and that's the weekend I get paid.

A couple pics from Sunday... The trails were really dry and dusty, but there were a few mud holes left to get a little dirty in. The new rear springs did great, good height but still very flexy. I did have a little rubbing at the rear of the wheel well on the left rear. (circled area) Minor rubbing in the front that didn't even scrub all the mud off. The only casualties were the loss of my bump stops in the front, but they were already dry and cracked from age.

Bass, sent you a PM

Once completely trimmed the taurus shroud will set at least 1/4" back from the radiator. I put the shroud back on for now with the regular fan, it's going to take almost two weeks for the fan controller to get here from Summit and I want to take it on a test run this weekend. The springs still need to be cut the same way. The guy at 4wheel Parts had never heard of anyone doing that before so I took it back to the store to show him after they were on. He was surprised how well the springs fit.

I'm thinking of heading to URE sunday for a little shake down. I may just stick to the easy trails until I'm sure nothing is going to fall off because I forgot to tighten a bolt.

I bought them new from 4 wheel parts here in town, they were a bit pricey at $160, but worth it if they work out. The ride isn't as bad as I thought it would be, a little stiffer but still comfortable. I believe they are part of this kit. http://www.4wheelparts.com/PDT1645.aspx

Continuation of the weekend into Monday... I've had my JY JGC springs on for about a year now and they have sagged about 1 1/2 - 2" (I used to be able to walk under the rear hatch when it was open, now I hit my head) so I went out and bought some 3" lift JGC springs. It sits a little high but if these springs sag too they should be about right.