sewebster Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) So I'm redoing the floor under my rear driver's side seat and had to cut out the lower seat hold-down point. Depending on how it goes tomorrow putting the new sheet metal in, I might want to not bother reinstalling it. Is it important (especially safety-wise) for some reason? Seems to me that the seatbelt does all the work here so having the hold-down doesn't really matter? I guess if I crash without someone sitting there the seat will flop around, but I don't know that I would care? The tricky part is getting the new sheet metal molded right to get the reinforcing bracket for the hold-down etc. installed in the right place. Still not sure how I will even try to do that. I have the location marked, but the new sheet is just flat at the moment... Hmm. Edited July 3, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 So I'm redoing the floor under my rear driver's side seat and had to cut out the lower seat hold-down point. Depending on how it goes tomorrow putting the new sheet metal in, I might want to not bother reinstalling it. Is it important (especially safety-wise) for some reason? Seems to me that the seatbelt does all the work here so having the hold-down doesn't really matter? I guess if I crash without someone sitting there the seat will flop around, but I don't know that I would care? The tricky part is getting the new sheet metal molded right to get the reinforcing bracket for the hold-down etc. installed in the right place. Still not sure how I will even try to do that. I have the location marked, but the new sheet is just flat at the moment... Hmm. I know that is one of the most commonly rusted out parts in the salt belt but would it not be considerably less work/time to get someone from California or another state where they don't use salt on the roads to ship you the panel that you need? I've cruised through a dozen trucks easy here in the pick n pulls and not one of them has a rust spot on the rear pan. Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 I know that is one of the most commonly rusted out parts in the salt belt but would it not be considerably less work/time to get someone from California or another state where they don't use salt on the roads to ship you the panel that you need? I've cruised through a dozen trucks easy here in the pick n pulls and not one of them has a rust spot on the rear pan. Just curious. Yeah, I guess that would be a good idea But... I'm halfways done already, and I want to finish it today... so I'll probably just install the sheet metal I already have. I guess if I don't like the result I can always cut it out again and get a panel from somewhere. I need to figure out where the pick a parts are around here too... probably not making a good use of the resource. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 That's what we did then the floors in mine needed doing, just had the junkyard guys cut a floor section. Went right in. Mine wasn't rotted nearly as bad though, so we didn't have as much to hack out. It looks like you've got a bit of sheet metal still holding the hold down in place, so why not leave it (or at least one bolt if the end is rotten) in place, put your flat floor in, and then build up as necessary to secure the hold down? It should work okay without it, but I imagine it might rattle around a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Slartibartfast: I had already cut it out, because it was totally rusted up underneath... there were several layers of sheet there, mostly rust. Anyway, I got rid of all those extra layers of rust and got the reinforcing plate all on it's own which was still in good shape. So I bolted that on to my flat sheet at the front two holes and then heated and formed my sheet to match the curve of the plate. Then I tacked the sheet into place in the truck. Hold down seems to basically work now, but it's only one with one bolt, because the other doesn't go into the reinforcing plate for some reason, so I need to find an M6 nut I'll post a pic once I get some more shielding gas and I finish the weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Could just weld the plate in. I know a local member here did that when he re did his floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Got the welding done after a marathon session. Welding under the dash when you can't fit your helmet sucks, especially when you suck at welding like me. Anyway, here's my finished rear seat. Well, before i painted it. Hold down works and the seat belts fit and the rear seat back also fits etc. yeehaw! Now I just need to undercoat the bottom. I know it's ugly, but I suck and thin sheet metal with not perfectly matching edges is lame. IMGP7363.jpg by sewebster, on Flickr Can anyone identify this thing on my seat? It's the only thing I didn't reinstall under the rear seat... no idea what it is for. Also, what are the plastic clip things that are built right into the seatback itself (one is busted). Mystery attachment by sewebster, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 the strap is for holding down the tool kit for the jack tools and the platic clips are made for holding the part you buckle the seatbelt into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 the strap is for holding down the tool kit for the jack tools and the platic clips are made for holding the part you buckle the seatbelt into. Ah, cool, thanks for filling me in. I don't have the tool stuff so I guess I don't need it. Not sure why you'd want to clip in the seatbelt parts, but good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Ah, cool, thanks for filling me in. I don't have the tool stuff so I guess I don't need it. Not sure why you'd want to clip in the seatbelt parts, but good to know. You clip on the receivers so that when you're folding the seats up/down, they will remain attached to the seat, and not lost underneath the bottom. When you flip it back up, you unclip for use. There is also a similar system on the back of the seat for retaining the seat in the down position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 You clip on the receivers so that when you're folding the seats up/down, they will remain attached to the seat, and not lost underneath the bottom. When you flip it back up, you unclip for use. There is also a similar system on the back of the seat for retaining the seat in the down position. Ah, ok.... I guess I'm just used to holding the belts up when I flip the seats back into position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Looks like it'll work. The little seatbelt clips on mine were busted, so I just made new ones out of wire. The stock bits break really easily, especially when someone gets in the back seat and doesn't know how they work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarehouseRat Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 slow the wire speed down and maybe a touch more heat and your bead will look better and penetrated deeper, other then that right on bro, seems like the best way would be a replacement floor pan cut from a pathy in a J/Y, hell you wouldnt even need to remove the other stuff bolt to the replacement panel to save time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 slow the wire speed down and maybe a touch more heat and your bead will look better and penetrated deeper, other then that right on bro, seems like the best way would be a replacement floor pan cut from a pathy in a J/Y, hell you wouldnt even need to remove the other stuff bolt to the replacement panel to save time Yeah... In some places elsewhere on the truck I managed to get some better looking beads. In a lot of places here though, I basically almost purposely tried to get a "thick bead" because there was some gap at the edge I was joining and I was trying to build up material... I also essentially turned down the voltage (heat) in order to minimized burning through. A bunch of the places it is really ugly is where I blasted through and then built up over the hole. Anyway, all that said, I'm sure the main reason it looks bad is because I am just learning. Thankfully it's hidden under the seat I agree that I would recommend the replacement floor pan approach in general. If you take your time matching up your edges really well you could avoid a bunch of problems. Hooray for no holes in the floor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) It's just the floor panel who cares what the welds look like as long as they're strong! Just put some seam sealer over it and no ones the wiser Edited July 7, 2011 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) It's just the floor panel who cares what the welds look like as long as they're strong! Just put some seam sealer over it and no ones the wiser Hehe, true. I think it's plenty strong... I did a lot of "stop and start" welding to avoid burning through. If you were better you could get it done a LOT faster and have it look better to boot. I also think it wastes a lot of gas when restarting all the time. I get a big puff every time I pull the trigger. I already painted it and it looks way better. I am debating on whether to coat it in this rocker guard undercoat I have. I put some on the inside under the driver's feet area. It adds sound insulation but I hope it doesn't smell. I am going to put it on the underneath regardless. Edited July 7, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Nice job on the welding!! Definitely looks better than my welding job on the driver side floor pan.. it turned out looking bad..but..it was my first time..and it works! it just doesnt look the best. mine is starting to rust there, as well, but no where near as bad as that!! atleast you wont have to worry about your passengers going bye-bye on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Nice job! I don't weld so I'm impressed. A couple of considerations though.... If any of the modified or fixed backseat equipment fails during an accident and there is a backseat passenger that gets hurt, you are liable. Not Nissan. That's why some of us, for example, choose to get a Nissan dealer to replace our seat belts for us (no charge). If your credit card is overdrawn and you have no meaningful assets, getting your ass sued may not be an issue. Please note that British California is becoming increasingly litigious like the neighbours to the south. Then on the other hand, targeted assassinations are a popular way of 'solving problems' in southwestern British Columbia, depending upon which sub-culture you happen to belong to. Whatever you do, do not have an accident and hurt the wrong person. Edited July 17, 2011 by westslope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Nice job! I don't weld so I'm impressed. A couple of considerations though.... If any of the modified or fixed backseat equipment fails during an accident and there is a backseat passenger that gets hurt, you are liable. Not Nissan. That's why some of us, for example, choose to get a Nissan dealer to replace our seat belts for us (no charge). If your credit card is overdrawn and you have no meaningful assets, getting your ass sued may not be an issue. Please note that British California is becoming increasingly litigious like the neighbours to the south. Then on the other hand, targeted assassinations are a popular way of 'solving problems' in southwestern British Columbia, depending upon which sub-culture you happen to belong to. Whatever you do, do not have an accident and hurt the wrong person. Why you never take passengers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Before I fixed anything the seatbelt install was probably fine, but it was certainly rusty. I'm not sure whose fault a failure would be at that point... mine for not noticing and getting it fixed, or Nissan's for designing a truck that rusts? Or Canada for salting the roads? Based on my education I am highly confident that the current situation is safer than it was before I started. Is it as good as from the factory? Probably, but who knows for sure. The motor vehicle act says that you can't modify your seatbelts (if factory equipped) to make them ineffective, but doesn't say anything about not fixing them yourself. Probably I have way better evidence than most people driving rust buckets that my seatbelts are in decent shape. Anyway, it's not just seatbelts, it's brakes, steering, suspension, lights, signals... anything that could conceivably be safety related right? Thankfully we're allowed to repair these things ourselves. I think I feel better knowing that I fixed some of this stuff rather than a "certified mechanic" because, while I'm sure most out there are excellent, I've seen some shoddy work... Anyway, lots of worrying can be done in this world, I'm going to do my best and keep on truckin' Edited July 17, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) If he gets in a bad enough accident for the integrity of the under-seat pan to come into play, chances are the rear passenger's screwed anyway. If it was frame work or a pillar or the seatbelts or something important, I'd share your caution, but the metal back there really just keeps the draft out and catches the pennies that fall between the seats. The seat belts bolt up elsewhere, so even if the whole affair gives way, the passenger's still strapped in. Perhaps the lesson is, don't transport lawsuit-happy people in a twenty year old car. Edited July 17, 2011 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 If he gets in a bad enough accident for the integrity of the under-seat pan to come into play, chances are the rear passenger's screwed anyway. If it was frame work or a pillar or the seatbelts or something important, I'd share your caution, but the metal back there really just keeps the draft out and catches the pennies that fall between the seats. The seat belts bolt up elsewhere, so even if the whole affair gives way, the passenger's still strapped in. Perhaps the lesson is, don't transport lawsuit-happy people in a twenty year old car. Your last line sound like some good general advice! As for how the seatbelts bolt up... it's actually a little less confidence inspiring than I'd like. Go crawl underneath there some time and check it out. Basically the seatbelts bolt through the sheet metal into a not-super-thick reinforcement plate on the back. It isn't into the frame or anything. I added a reinforcement plate overtop as well because the factory arrangement didn't seem so amazing to me, and to make up for any rust related strength loss. But the thing is that metal is strong, seatbelts are strong etc. I'm sure that whatever it looks like, this is rarely anything that causes people to get hurt. Lots of worse things going on in a crash that bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Before I fixed anything the seatbelt install was probably fine, but it was certainly rusty. I'm not sure whose fault a failure would be at that point... mine for not noticing and getting it fixed, or Nissan's for designing a truck that rusts? Or Canada for salting the roads? Based on my education I am highly confident that the current situation is safer than it was before I started. .... All excellent points. I would put as much trust in a competent and safety-motivated amateur as I would a qualifed professional mechanic. P.S. If you have to... blame Nissan. Probably easier to get money out of them than the government of Canada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismowd21 Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Does anybody know how to fold down the rear seats flat on my 95 Pathy. I can fold down the back rest but when I decide to fold the seat flat I have no clue on how to even begin pulling the seat cushion out to fold down the whole seat down flat. Any suggestions??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Does anybody know how to fold down the rear seats flat on my 95 Pathy. I can fold down the back rest but when I decide to fold the seat flat I have no clue on how to even begin pulling the seat cushion out to fold down the whole seat down flat. Any suggestions??? Not sure if this is what you are asking, but: 1. Pull up seat bottom, should be a black strap to pull on to release it. 2. Remove headrest, there is a button on the side of the base. 3. Pull side lever and fold seat back all the way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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