unccpathfinder Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Saw these manual hubs in the JY and had to pull them just b/c i havent seen them before and thought they may be OEM manual hubs...I wish they would work on my 95 or i'd keep them as spares but I figued i'd pick them up and see if anyone was interested in them b/c i'm sure someone would love to give them a nice home...anyways heres the pix of them: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Those are the same ones I have. OEM Nissan manual hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Those are OEM's and still in stock @ nissan for $400 a pair. They are the strongest hubs for a nissan that money cay buy. Some of us get lucky and find a pair in the JY for $25 or so... If the splines don't match up you can change your CV's for a differant year or sell them to somone greatful on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 its not as simple to change the CV as the OD is different where it goes thru the spindles...I found this out the hard way...I think i could change out the wheel bearings and retrofit back to a different CV but then again the older styles were 6 bolt where the new ones are 5 bolt...and yes that's y i grabbed them b/c they look like the most stout hubs that I have see yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northernpathy Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) Yup OEM Nissan hubs. Looks like they might be a later model, as the ones I have on my 88 hardbody has "4x2" and "4x4" written on them instead of "Free" and "Locked". Unless that is just a thing they did for the pathys. Edit: Never mind. Looked at the HB and it does say free and locked. The newer Warn ones on the Pathy are the ones that say 4x2 and 4x4 Edited December 20, 2010 by Northernpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 For what its worth, I just picked up some manuals from a 94 at the bone yard. I didn't know they came stock so it was a bonus since I was there scavenging for something else. Anyway, 60$ for the pair. The donor (king cab) only had 36K, unfortunately the hubs were about all that was left... They say "lock" and "free" as well (as opposed to 4X4)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 If they'd fit a 91, i'd buy em in a heartbeat! But, assuming 91/95 are interchangeable as they always are, they would not fit lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 they changed to the 28 spline when the 4 door was introduced. I have a set of 27 spline HB manuals sitting on my dresser that I have no use for and want to sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) retrofit back to a different CV but then again the older styles were 6 bolt where the new ones are 5 bolt... so the 28 spline used 5 bolts? I never noticed that... I'd look on my 94 but the centercaps are in the way. very odd, I wonder why the did it... Edited December 20, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 the 28 spline OEM hubs had 5 bolts? The Warn hubs I recently got from the junkyard (for $14 each) and that I put on my 94 PF have 6 bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) OHHH! He's talking about the flange for the actual CV on the Diff side. I'm pretty sure the flages can be changed over too... the Newer 28 spline flanges on the Diff are 5 bolt star pattern the Older 27 spline flanges on the Diff are 6 bolt in 3 sets of 2 arround the circle Edited December 20, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 OHHH! He's talking about the flange for the actual CV on the Diff side. I'm pretty sure the flages can be changed over too... the Newer 28 spline flanges on the Diff are 5 bolt star pattern the Older 27 spline flanges on the Diff are 6 bolt in 3 sets of 2 arround the circle I believe you are right but I havent tried to swap out flanges on the differential but i still know the diameter of the cv's is different...i found this out when i tried to put the 95 cv on my 87 truck when my 87 truck still had the same spindles...i didnt want to fight with changing out wheelbearings and what not so i just swapped all the front steering componenets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 ok, didn't see that specified, that he was referring about the flanges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Diff flanges, from what I have seen, can not be swapped. The early diff flanges have a single bolt in the center, and the later ones are pressed in. It'd probably be easier to swap diffs from an early truck, and even easier to just get the right spline hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 I believe you are right but I havent tried to swap out flanges on the differential but i still know the diameter of the cv's is different...i found this out when i tried to put the 95 cv on my 87 truck when my 87 truck still had the same spindles...i didnt want to fight with changing out wheelbearings and what not so i just swapped all the front steering componenets Wishing you kept the original front end now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 not really...i'm starting to plan on cutting all the IFS stuff out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Maybe you should get some beadlocks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Diff flanges, from what I have seen, can not be swapped. The early diff flanges have a single bolt in the center, and the later ones are pressed in. It'd probably be easier to swap diffs from an early truck, and even easier to just get the right spline hubs. Flanges attach the same (LH bolts in / RH is pressed in), but are not interchangeable. Remember that I tried early flanges on a late diff? You were with Mr.510 when I gave them to him and explained the issue, so he could look into a way to adapt them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Flanges attach the same (LH bolts in / RH is pressed in), but are not interchangeable. Remember that I tried early flanges on a late diff? You were with Mr.510 when I gave them to him and explained the issue, so he could look into a way to adapt them Yeah, I do remember that and your rapist work van. I was under the impression that both sides were pressed, my bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Yeah, I do remember that and your rapist work van. I was under the impression that both sides were pressed, my bad. Nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Yeah, what they said. The early vs. late flanges/shafts do not interchange where they plug into the diff. I have a set of each sitting next to my bench to try to figure out if there is an easy way to modify something to make them work. For now the answer is that if you want to change your spline count you need the diff, CV shafts, complete spindle assemblies, and (of course) locking hubs. And don't forget that they changed the TRE taper size somewhere around the beginning of '94 (?) so that messes up the interchange of the spindles as well. Just for a little clarification, the short-side diff flange has a single bolt in the center of the flange that retains it. The long side has four bolts that hold a flange with the support bearing in it to the housing. Early and late bolt in the same but there is a difference inside the diff that I need to sort out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 What about making custom shafts using the older outer, and the newer inner? Should be no harder than a boot replacement, if the parts are interchangable right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 I haven measured the u joint caps to see if they r interchangeable but yes this could be a custom option Or get true CVS made Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Now that would be cool. Something with a wider range of operating angles too!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 What about making custom shafts using the older outer, and the newer inner? Should be no harder than a boot replacement, if the parts are interchangable right? Yep, this is a possibility. Use one inner CV joint and the other outer joint. I'm going to pull a junk CV shaft out of my '88 and Silverton has a junk one out of his '95 so I'll see if the two can be combined to make an 'adapter CV shaft'. I haven measured the u joint caps to see if they r interchangeable but yes this could be a custom option Or get true CVS made The later style (28 spline) inner joints are true, 6-ball CV joints where the earlier ones (27 spline) are the 3-pronged 'U-joint' style. That's why they changed from six-bolt to five-bolt flanges. The 3-prong style has two bolts between each of the flutes of the housing. The 28 spline ones have five bolts evenly spaced around the circumference of the housing. Now that would be cool. Something with a wider range of operating angles too!!! That one is a tough order to fill without spending *huge* money. Most production CV joints have about the same amount of maximum angularity. Also, in applications where you can get a 'high operating angle' CV joint (930 Turbo CVs in VW applications) the increased angle means the outward force on the outer housing it much higher and they tend to break while at extreme angles. They also run much hotter and wear out more quickly when run at high angles. With the stuff we tend to do (low speed, sharp joint angles, and very high torque) we are lucky that our stock CVs live a relatively long time. You'll notice that Baja Fab long-travel front end increases the front track width by several inches per side, thus allowing more suspension travel without increasing the CV angles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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