Engine oil wars!

[nunya]

As it comes up from time to time I just had a thought that it would be nice to have everyones preferences and dislikes in one spot.

Now a couple rules for war:

Name your oil brand and/or additive of choice, preferred weight if you like and synthetic/dino if you have a preference.

Explain you reasoning behind your choice (even if it's just because you like the pretty bottle)

Optional:

Name the oil and/or additive you dislike

Explain why you dislike said product line (same thing, even if it's something as simple as it's on too low of a shelf at your store of choice to bend over to grab it)

 

Keep it civil, we all have different opinions... Agree to disagree, nobody is gonna look down at you for disliking castrol.

Take note that this is not oil FILTER wars!

 

 

 

Onaward!

My personal preference is Lucas oil additive every oil change and whatever dino 15w40 is on sale. I've lived by Lucas about all my time behind the wheel and belive it has extended the life of quite a fiew motors that when I've gone to check or change found I was a bit lacking in the amount of 710 IN the pan. I don't do synthetic as I will not jump on that bandwagon nor do I care about the mileage gain between changes since I do mine on a 6 month basis no matter the miles (normally 1k left goeing by 3k intervals), that and my motor lasted this long on dino, not about to change his diet now.

[headpeace]

aww hell, here we go

Edited November 18, 2010 by headpeace

[Specv1973]

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28223&st=0&p=533997&fromsearch=1entry533997

 

[nunya]

Yup, I was there. I don't wanna see consumer reports, don't care about filters, and don't care about people looking to argue. This is for all people, not just wd21s or r50s (r51 people, you too). You don't have to post if you don't want to

[adamzan]

I prefer Valvoline or Mobil1 synthetic. My engine has 340,000kms on it and is in top shape. I use the 5w30 weight like it says in the manual for most of the time but if I know I'm going to be wheeling a lot or driving a lot in the summer I will put 5w50 in. Always synthetic with a Bosch, nissan, or purolater. My engine is in fine shape and changing the oil every 5k will keep it that way. No need to spend 80 dollars on an oil change and hunting down stupid additives *cough cough zddp*.

 

I used to put Lucas synthetic oil additive in but realized it didn't do anything (in my case as my motor is tight and quiet) so I stopped using it.

 

I dislike Pennzoil motor oil as whenever I had it in my truck (from oil change places) the lifters would always clatter on cold starts and the engine was just noisier in general.

Edited November 18, 2010 by adamzan

[ahardb0dy]

Mobil 1 synthetic in all my Nissans, 10W30

[Cuong Nguyen]

I've been using castrol gtx 10w30 for a bit. I was using Penzoil back in 2001 and switched shortly after. Just go by the SAE API rating on the back, if they're the same they then they're good. Just keep up with oil change interval and use a good oil filter.

[Specv1973]

Yup, I was there. I don't wanna see consumer reports, don't care about filters, and don't care about people looking to argue. This is for all people, not just wd21s or r50s (r51 people, you too). You don't have to post if you don't want to

 

 

I hear ya. I feel the same after that fiasco. I'm running 5w30 and whatever is on sale at the local parts store which I believe was Valvoline last time cause they were giving away a free filter with a 5 quart jug purchase.

Edited November 18, 2010 by Specv1973

[ANDY]

i use castrol gtx cause its what we sell at work and if i did use a additive it would be lucas or bitron

[Precise1]

I put Mobil1 5w30 (and a Mobil1 filter) in the wife's Matrix and R50, 95k and 160k mile respectively and change each every 5000 (seems like a reasonable interval) and I appreciate the stretched intervals as she can travel 1000-1500 in a month so I have to change it less. I buy the oil by the case on sale and the filters when I need them or on sale so the cost isn't too bad.

 

My WD21 gets Castrol synthetic blend 10-30 (with a Bosch filter (Fram PH8a equivalent)) every 2500-3000 miles/6 months, what ever comes first.

 

On the whole, over the last 30 years, I have never had an engine fail due to lubrication failure so the old adage of change it regularly and the filter too is probably the most important.

 

I'll add a pint of Lucas Oil Stabilizer if I remember as I can see that it coats better and has greater cohesive tension/viscosity but how much that matters in the long run, I have no idea. (In trannys or diffs, hell yes!!)

 

I see oil claiming 10-15 thousand mile interval change and can not comprehend how that can be right...

 

B

[pmccallister]

Royal Purple! Used to run mobil one but it was so ****** I threw a rod. Had to rebuild the whole engine. Royal purple is the only oil worth running. End of Story!!!

[sewebster]

Basically all the big problems I end up seeing with vehicles seem to originate with them being run with no oil in them. My vote is for oil. Oil is good for engines.

[Kingman]

Chevron brand 10W30 and a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter. Chevron oil is the most detergent and well cleaning oil on the market.

 

Sometimes it'll get Pennzoil or Castrol if the 5 quart jugs are on sale for $10-12. I am a cheap ass.

 

No VG will tolerate oil starvation or dirty oil, even for a split second. As soon as either happens, the engine will fail quickly.

 

100% coincidence on throwing a rod with Mobil 1. End of story.

Edited November 18, 2010 by Kingman

[tekazgtr1984]

Castrol Syntec 5W-30 since I got my R50 in spring '08 but my last oil change I went with Motul XCess 8100 5W-40, always with OEM Nissan filters.

 

Engine runs quieter since switching to Motul and the oil on the dipstick is a whole lot cleaner. Love it.

[andreus009]

Valvoline Durablend 10W-40 plus Lucas oil stabilizer. I like red bottles....they are easy to find in the store!

[Simon]

I use Royal Purple or Amsoil, though, will most likely be sticking to Royal Purple as the X seems to respond a little better with it.

 

I change my filter at 4-5000kms and the oil at 8-10,000kms.

 

That said, I agree with B, you can put just about anything in, with just about any filter, and as long as it's the right weight, and is relatively fresh, it won't make a whole hell of a lot of difference.

[k9sar]

Castrol GTX 5w30 for most if it's life but switched to Castrol High Mileage a couple of years ago. reason? It lubes and it's inexpensive. I throw in a bottle of Lucas and push my oil changes out to 10k since I have a leak in my rear seal and I replentish the oil slowly over time.

[westslope]

Basically all the big problems I end up seeing with vehicles seem to originate with them being run with no oil in them. My vote is for oil. Oil is good for engines.

 

Hilarious! But oh so true. The key conclusion from all these discussions is: maintain oil levels and change both the oil and filter at regular intervals.

 

Thanks to professional brainwashing, I tend to believe the claims of high-grade synthetic oil lasting 15,000 to 20,000km between changes. The companies making these claims have far too much to lose if they are wrong. Do not forget that most of you are living in one of the most litigious countries in the world. A sideways glance is cause for a law suit, no?

 

I run Mobil 1 extended performance 5W-30 year-round and use a Mobil 1 extended performance filter. I changed the oil in late July after nearly one calendar year and about 12,000 km of driving. The 1993 Nissan Pathfinder engine has been bathing in synthetic oil since ~100,000km and currently does not leak a single drop. (That reminds me that I should check the valve cover bolts.)

Edited November 18, 2010 by westslope

[nismothunder]

Tye Shall not dirty tye neighbors oil and tye shall change tyes oil every 3,000 or 3 months.Tye lord reconmend Quaker State 5w-30 as well...Thats in the bible verse for verse...

 

 

I run Quaker State and MotorCraft semi sin...5w-30 and 5w20,never had any problem other then when using the 20weight it'll use a quirt ever 1500-2000miles,5.4 triton.

 

Also,not trying to jack this or anything but Bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of data on this subject.

 

I use Quaker State because I like the green bottle my beater c-vic got Quaker state high milage with slick 50(red bottle with chevelle on label)

 

The only additive I add is MMO because it keeps the engine clean.Its Seafoam but isnt as Solvent so you can add it at a fresh oil change and change your oil at 2,ooo miles.

Edited November 18, 2010 by nismothunder

[5523Pathfinder]

As the resident Nissan/Infiniti tech around here, I have used several different oils in my rigs, all which were free from the dealers I have worked at. Those that I can remember are Chevron, Kendall, Castrol and there was one off brand. Currently here at my work, we use Kendall synthetic blend. My truck loves it. I drive a lot of miles and the oil definatly gets used in 3-4000 miles. I use a factory filter everytime(15208-55Y00) and even replace the copper crush washer to prevent leaks, every time. I even go as far as to flush the engine every so often, to keep buildup at the minimum. When I drain the oil, I do a quick test to see how well it flows. Everytime has been about the same, good. I agree with a regular changing interval. I dont want to give the oil, no matter what kind, any chance to break down and have possible damage.

 

 

Now, Nissan/Infiniti uses and used to recommned Ester Oil in the 3.7L engines. I have been skeptical till just a few weeks ago. Our used car department bought a used G37 from California, with 24,000 miles on it. I did the inspection and noticed that the oil had never been changed, still had the facotry filter on it(by part number and marks on the filter). When I changed the oil, it was a little dark, but still in great shape. I put a video scope up the drain hole and everthing still looked fine on the inside. I would change, but, its spendy stuff!!

 

Note: I bought my rig with 82,000 miles, now has 187,000 miles on it.

Edited November 18, 2010 by 5523Pathfinder

[MuphDivin]

I was just commenting on oil on a post last night. Here is what I said:

 

I have a STRONG opposition to amsoil. I haven't had a single vehicle that hasn't overheated on that sludge. I took my wife's LS460 (toyota, i know, i know) in to have the oil changed (i refuse to work on it), and after 3,000 miles that amsoil garbage had her cam pistons and crank shaft all out of alignment, and her overhead coils had about 60% wear on them. The car ran about 14% hotter than it does with Royal Purple. I ran amsoil back in my Pathfinder back in 2002, and after one oil change with amsoil I pretty much had to rebuild the lower block.

 

On another note: Royal Purple was founded in Humble, TX about two hours from where I live now. That's a Texas oil, boy, none other like it in the world. Royal Purple all the way!

[sewebster]

I just rebuilt my engine.

 

I used Royal Purple break in oil.

 

First my new lifters seized and ruined my camshafts. Oversized lifters, or Royal Purple?

 

Now my valves are sticking. Royal Purple?

 

You decide!

[Simon]

I used Quaker State, Valvoline, Motomaster, Amsoil, Mobil1, Castrol, and many others and NONE of them would stay in my old truck (RMS leak) and one of them caused it. I'm going to blame the oil, for sure.

 

It's amazing the conclusions people will jump to when something goes wrong with their vehicle. Blaming oil companies for engines falling apart or being built incorrectly is a stretch.

[sewebster]

I used Quaker State, Valvoline, Motomaster, Amsoil, Mobil1, Castrol, and many others and NONE of them would stay in my old truck (RMS leak) and one of them caused it. I'm going to blame the oil, for sure.

 

It's amazing the conclusions people will jump to when something goes wrong with their vehicle. Blaming oil companies for engines falling apart or being built incorrectly is a stretch.

 

By the way, my post above was intended to be entirely sarcastic

[nismothunder]

I just rebuilt my engine.

 

I used Royal Purple break in oil.

 

First my new lifters seized and ruined my camshafts. Oversized lifters, or Royal Purple?

 

Now my valves are sticking. Royal Purple?

 

You decide!

Did you properly oil the lifters and prime the oil pump when assembleing the engine?Did you use a oil with a high amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate(zddp) in it?These could be your problems and not the oil it self.