MrPink Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Well with in the past 2 weeks i have been noticing that my rear doors are not shutting 100% anymore, and that my DS rear wheel is starting to sag a bit. so i crawled under my pathfinder and noticed that my frame is getting really really bad, i have actually bent the DS rear spring perch and i think that caused the body to twist ever so slightly. i know exactly how to fix it but i am just worried that i shouldnt be driving it. >_< on to the pics. my friend and I will be fixing this with in 2weeks. i am buying some 10Ga sheet metal that will be cut into strips that are 6'x 5" wide,6'x2.5" as well as a sheet that is 14"x 24" i have a bunch of old 1/4" armor plate that i was going to use but i think it would be way too thick for frame repair. I will be adding 1/4" "fishplates" to specific areas(suspension mounts,bends in the frame,etc...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 wow, that frame rot is REALLY bad I don't think I'd drive it like that... O.o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) Sorry to tell ya man....but thats pretty horrid...significantly worse than mine. You aren't looking to salvage the frame rails are you? I'd suggest a full rebuild from the rear doors back with some good heavy duty tubing....it looks like you lost 2 or 3 entire sides right where the coil spring mount is If you have ANY other options of transportation (even a bicycle) you'd be wise to utilize them...that could break on a speedbump! Edited July 6, 2010 by OldSlowReliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Wow! Now that I have seen some pictures, wow! Im not to sure you want to be driving that. I would almost consider it time to find a new rig! Taking the body off of the frame and fixing the entire thing sounds like the other way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 I thought you were going to post pictures of your rig, not the Titanic... Yeah, I would not drive it like that except into the garage where the repair is going to be done. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 I thought you were going to post pictures of your rig, not the Titanic... I was thinking the exact same thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 good luck with that..you"ll need it I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 For your safety, park that thing. Good luck with getting that thing fixed. I can't wait to see the before and after photos on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Mine was just a little better on the p-side,I snapped the stabalizer bars off the frame withing three weeks of owning mine. I wouldnt drive it like that,since theres nothing keeping the back axle on the truck.A easy way to fix the far rear rust(like where a hitch would bolt to the frame,is to use 2x2 inch squire tube thats a little less then a 1/4 inch thick.As far as useing 10 gauge sheet metal,dont do it!!,use 1/4 1/5 inch even 3/16 inch stock to do the frame,that part of the frame is always being stressed and even with *fishplate* extras,I wouldnt dought that the frame will bend. If you want to see pictures of my repair then you can check them out on facebook or I'm sure somebuddy will post theres up for you to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Mine was just a little better on the p-side,I snapped the stabalizer bars off the frame withing three weeks of owning mine. I wouldnt drive it like that,since theres nothing keeping the back axle on the truck.A easy way to fix the far rear rust(like where a hitch would bolt to the frame,is to use 2x2 inch squire tube thats a little less then a 1/4 inch thick.As far as useing 10 gauge sheet metal,dont do it!!,use 1/4 1/5 inch even 3/16 inch stock to do the frame,that part of the frame is always being stressed and even with *fishplate* extras,I wouldnt dought that the frame will bend. If you want to see pictures of my repair then you can check them out on facebook or I'm sure somebuddy will post theres up for you to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 More on this 2x2 frame patch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 The guy that did my passager side didnt go all the way back,he welded new stuff in too about 2-3 inchs past the coil,he left the stock rusted frame after that.I noticed that it was starting to sag(I dont know how,it was like a 2 foot spot of no frame) so I jacked it up so there wasnt any weight on it and burned to chunks of 2x2 squire tub in,the bottom one went into the frame like a foot and was welded and the top one went in the frame like 4-5 inchs and was welded.I then welded the top on to the bottom one and welded it to the back of the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Wow. That is pretty rough stuff there bro. I guess it boils down to how much you love your pathfinder...keep it or scrap it?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 If you have the know how, and it sounds like you or your friend do, it is fixable. I would use 1/8" plate. That's what I used on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 For the amount of rust that those rails have I wouldn't bother even trying to salvage as stated above. You need some big ass steel box tubing and start from the rear doors back otherwise you're going to have once hell of a time welding. Not to mention having to line everything else up perfect to the new frame rails. If I were you man... I don't personally think I would bother. There's people all over the place selling Pathfinders with Blown Tranny's and tons in the wrecking yards with no engines because of the Cash for Clunkers. I'd sooner buy a wrecker and steal what you need from the current one you have to get it rocking. Then you'll also have a vehicle to part out to make some of your cash back. That rust is probably the worst I've seen and I DEFINITELY wouldn't drive it like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) For the safety of everyone on the street do not drive that thing. From my point of view you have 4 options of what you can do with that pathfinder. 1. Like above stated find a pathfinder cheep that is short the engine or the transmission and swap that and any other parts you want from our current pathy. 2. Build a new rear 3rd frame from box tubbing cut out old frame weld in new. You must keep things square and true or it will never drive right. 3. Go Truggy style rip out hole frame do SAS while building a complete tube frame for pathfinder body. 4. Part out the rig and start with something else. If i could think of any more ways i would list them, That frame is way past its point of return. I think option 1 would be your best economical method and would leave you with a parts rig for when you have other problems down the road. Options 2 and 3 require a good welder, and great fabrication skills to make it all work in the end. option 4 isn't good because you end up with no pathfinder and these little rigs are worth more then anyone gives them credit for. Edited July 6, 2010 by BoneZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 10gauge is thicker than 1/8 plate (0.135" vs 0.125") Good luck with the fix. Make sure you get it straight/square before you start the welding, or it will never be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 You know, guys he never asked what he should do with the truck. He stated he is going to repair the frame. I have seen much worse been repaired up here in Ottawa. If he is willing to put the time into it like he said why are you telling him to get another truck? Sorry it just bugs me when people say they are going to fix something and then others come in telling them its not worth it. Maybe the truck has sentimental value to him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 don't skimp on metal for the frame(or what resembled at one time of a frame)... do it right once with some good thick metal. It is kinda an important of the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 You know, guys he never asked what he should do with the truck. He stated he is going to repair the frame. I have seen much worse been repaired up here in Ottawa. If he is willing to put the time into it like he said why are you telling him to get another truck? Sorry it just bugs me when people say they are going to fix something and then others come in telling them its not worth it. Maybe the truck has sentimental value to him? Good point and fair enough, but you have seen much worse repaired?? Really?? If it was much worse, the two ends of the truck wouldn't be connected. I've been shocked before, I thought GG's frame was bad and was impressed by how he handled it. This one is much worse... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Magregors was worse both spring perches were bent up and the frame was snapped behind the panhard rod mount(pretty sure it was there, it was snapped somewhere), and the cross member for the upper arms was off. It took him several months of weekends and evenings to rebuild but it turned out great. He cut the frame off after the lower arm mounts and rebuilt it. Basically built a new frame around the old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 The truck may have sentimental value to him and that is fine, I think everyone who commented is looking at it as far as how much work it will take to repair what he has. I for one would hit the junkyard and find a better frame, than he will still have his truck with sentimental value if it has any for him. It would be easier and probably cheaper in the end to swap frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Actually you can replace the rear section with 2x4 square tubing. That is what is going on with my 93 right now. Also it has been done by another member here in ottawa. There is a video of it on youtube somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I don't know what you people are complaining about, that looks perfectly drivable to me. Just clean it up and weld in some plates and it should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Actually you can replace the rear section with 2x4 square tubing. That is what is going on with my 93 right now. Also it has been done by another member here in ottawa. There is a video of it on youtube somewhere I think this is it, he has 3 vids of this up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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