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285/75-16 And 3 Inch Body Lift Only! (Pictures)


BonnerBB
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I have received several PM's asking how I am able to run 285/75-16 and 3 Inch Body lift only.

 

They always read on NPORA that it can't be done.

 

I just wanted to set the records straight that it CAN be done if you crank the T-bar like a mother.

 

If you haven't tried it - don't tell people it can't be done.

 

My truck kicks ass on the trails and it never fails me.

 

None of my friends that have WD21's ever wheel with me anymore because.... well their suspension lifted pathy's have....well suspension/steering problems.

 

Never had a problem with my truck yet except a motor mount. :)

 

Well other than the speedometer, odometer, rear power windows, drivers side key lock.. But who needs that stuff? All that was broken when I bought it.

 

I daily drive it to keep the miles off my expensive car and I wheel it hard at least once a month at Brazos Valley Offroad Park.

 

The only point I am trying to make is - prove it can't be done before you say it can't.

 

B-

 

tnoavatar.giftnoavatar.giftnoavatar.giftnoavatar.gif

 

19538_1252562998604_1365398407_30691015_7041876_n.jpg

 

15443_541008509444_199300379_32233585_1158165_n.jpg

Edited by BonnerBB
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I have received several PM's asking how I am able to run 285/75-16 and 3 Inch Body lift only.

 

They always read on NPORA that it can't be done.

 

I just wanted to set the records straight that it CAN be done if you crank the T-bar like a mother.

 

 

lol, idiot, you basically have what everyone says you need, 3+3. If you cranked the T-bars you have a suspension lift too! :stickwack:

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Cranking the T-Bar is not what they have been led to believe is the suspension lift they need.

 

Greg, it is sad that someone like you has been allowed to represent NPORA with your rude post.

 

More people would probably stick around NPORA if they encountered friendly conversation versus you.

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Cranking the T-Bar is not what they have been led to believe is the suspension lift they need.

 

Greg, it is sad that someone like you has been allowed to represent NPORA with your rude post.

 

More people would probably stick around NPORA if they encountered friendly conversation versus you.

 

What "other" suspension lift is there (besides the no longer made TM 4")?

 

Rude? I'm not the one acting like we are lying to people on here, so eat it.

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No one here hides the fact that a front SL on a pathfinder is "cranking the torsion bars"

 

Arms alone will not provide lift, in fact the arms do not lift anything at all. They simply correct the geometry of the front suspension when the T-Bars are cranked above stock specs.

 

Several members trucks are lifted without aftermarket UCA's. Can it be done? Yes Is it recommended? No

 

 

 

 

Comment needed? - No

 

Reply needed? - No

 

Saying "They always read on NPORA that it can't be done" - Not true

 

:beer:

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So maybe I mispoke by saying they always read that it can't be done...

 

What would be better said is that they misunderstand what they read and most of them think they need this:

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-19871995-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_7.html

 

http://www.purenissan.com/wd21_3_kit.htm

Edited by BonnerBB
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So maybe I mispoke by saying they always read that it can't be done...

 

What would be better said is that they misunderstand what they read and most of them think they need this:

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-19871995-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_7.html

 

http://www.purenissan.com/wd21_3_kit.htm

 

Kinda both sides true, if you crank the T-bars only, your rear end is gonna look saggy without some sort of spring change in the rear. If you want to be technical, you don't need any lifts at all to run 33" tires, but you would need to lose some sheet metal if you wanna do that without cutting the tires.

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For the sake of reliability, that is what we recommend.. and for good reason. :aok:

 

 

 

On the subject of clarity, maybe you can update your info to make it more clear as well. Cranking your torsion bars as you said you did, mean that you also have a 2.5-3in (don't know exactly what yours measures out to be) suspension lift ;)

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I updated my signature as you suggested...

 

As far as I can tell the springs in the rear are original... I am probably running the original shocks too. :)

 

I do have a little sag in the rear but that is because of the gear/tools I haul around.

 

when I bought my truck it already had the Nitto's, BL and the T-Bar was already cranked.

 

Previous owner hadn't even adjusted the shifter to be able to get it into 4lo after the BL. I did.

 

HooHaa Centerlink, Calmini Idler Arm Brace and the Sliders I learned about on here and installed.

 

B-

Edited by BonnerBB
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If they are cranked as much as you say, I would guess they did a spring swap looking at the one level ground pic you have, you are fairly even F&R.

 

Both of my trucks have about 2"SL, just from T-bar crank and spring swaps, nothing else.

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If they are cranked as much as you say, I would guess they did a spring swap looking at the one level ground pic you have, you are fairly even F&R.

 

Both of my trucks have about 2"SL, just from T-bar crank and spring swaps, nothing else.

Do you have aftermarket uca's? Doesn't it make your camber way off just cranking them?

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Do you have aftermarket uca's? Doesn't it make your camber way off just cranking them?

 

No aftermarket UCA's.

 

Every time I take my truck in for my alignment with the Firestone Lifetime program I have them write with a big black marker "DO NOT TOUCH TORSION BARS"

 

It gets aligned nicely every time.

 

B-

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I would be very surprised if that truck doesn't already have some form of lift spring installed. It sits far too level to have stock springs.

 

Yep, you've essentially got a 3+3.

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.is it a really stiff ride in back?

 

I really don't have anything to compare it too since it was already done when I bought the truck.

Edited by BonnerBB
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Rancho used to make a lift for Hardbodys...I know there not pathfinders but if you swap the rear lift leafs for coils it would work the same.I still say you can fit 33s,they just cant be wide.Hell wd21s came with 31s stock and your adding three inchs of clearance with the body lift,you could probly run pizza cutter 34s...(Super swamper makes a 34x9.5 tsl so there,the tread I'm betting isnt more then 8 inchs across)And i know some buddys going to pipe up and say it says 9.5 right on the side way...well it all depends on the company mesurements,some measure the tread it self and some measure side wall to side wall,and others mesure mounted tires and yet others mesure the tires unmounted...

My buddies tsl's are 39.5x12.5 but the treadmesurs out to be 11 1/2 inchs...

 

 

On a diffrent subject whats the thing that makes pathys pigen toed when giving them gas on dirt,is that the center section?

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Not to take sides or anything but I read this but after reading the original post all I heard in my head was that cartoon "wa, wa, waaaa...." sound. By now you already know what I want to say but just won't since you got it enough already.

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On a diffrent subject whats the thing that makes pathys pigen toed when giving them gas on dirt,is that the center section?

 

When you accelerate the weight is pushed to the back of the truck allowing the front suspension to rise a little. that little rise causes the pigeon toe, reason why is because the front alignment is bound by extreme angle due to the fact that the front drag link is essentially attached to the frame at two points.

 

It drives me nuts because with a 3" sl this effect is magnified almost twice the effect.

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Thats all,there was a post a few month back,talking about center links or something,I though it said you wanted it to pigeon toe because if it didnt it was harder on cv's or something...

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