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Custom Spec Cams Are Installed & Tested


MY1PATH
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EDIT; I reccomend the Schneider 256H Grind for anyone who whants something mild for low end.

see post #42 for more details

 

 

Ok this is feeling like madness, drawing precise lobes with numbers, more and more people knowing about it and questions rising. So I figured I'd start this thread before I got the Ball rolling.

Some of my ramblings were here http://npora.ipbhost...94entry462694

ending with

Are you planning on having your powerband start at less than 1500?

the goal was to have a flat increase power from Idle up.

I will be contacting the grinder on monday or tuesday and try to put my prototype into motion.

will it work? well thats why its a prototype. I may not get my desiered result...

Part of developing this was advancing the intake. But I do not want the valve to open on the piston. JWT has advanced the intake opening farther than anyone else and with a greater amount of lift equalling the most vavle protursion @ TDC. I don't know how much more room there is so I will not advance the intake timing more than JWT. So I may or may not wind up with a cam the behaves very similar to an existing grind that is midler than the S1.

 

So now I pick up on a fresh thread. I sent Delta Cams in Tacoma an email and I hope to hear back monday or tuesday. I developed this grind with MY ENGINE in mind. 3.0, restrictive TBI manifold but awesome exuaust system. I will be doing a tune up before the cam is installed and get a basline dyno. Once the new cam is broken in (if it didn't have any issues off the bat) I will do an after dyno. If the result is desireable I will see who is interested in having more made...

 

th_customcamcardincolor-1.jpgth_CAM_SPEC_VG30E_S1_S2.jpg

th_2252254420lift.jpg th_stockcamspecs.jpg

Edited by MY1PATH
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If the result is desireable I will see who is interested in having more made...

Price range?

4 years ago I talked to them and it looked like this could be done for about $200 things may have changed...

 

will this work on other engines?

the VG30i is the most sensitve to cams; Idle and flatness of power will all be hindered by its displacement and low intake charge. vg30e and vg33e both feature higer intake charges and the vg33e has the inertial value of its greater displacment. I other words if the vg30i runs it other engines will likely run it smoother.

 

ok I'm tired I got the post outa my system I'll check back tomorrow....

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so by looking at the specs my guess is ur looking for more torque across the rv range? will the valve springs be able to cope?

 

the stock springs will be fine, there is less lift than the JWT S1 grind which also runs off stock springs. when in good condition they are capable of running mild cams up to 7k RPM. Yeh my springs are 21 years and 240k old but I'm also not reving to 7K

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SO I sent my info to a Bad e-mail adress @ delta cams... Just got off the phone with them today after giving my specs one last look over. their price has gone up in the last 4 years, "125 a stick" so thats $250+tax. For me thats still a better price because I'm not paying for shipping and for all you others out there its still pretty competive.

I added 252/254 spec sheet in case they don't like my .5 degee increment on the lobe center.

th_2252254420lift.jpg

 

Delta Camshaft welds up the cams before grinding so lobe centers can be ajusted allot more than other re-grinders. This process also makes it so they don't have to take any material off the base of the cam so lifter life is impoved over other re-grinds.

 

 

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If Delta falls thru... (I'm thinking they won't do what I want as I'm already having trouble comunicating with them)

I may go with the Schneider 256-H or see if Schneider will do my custom spec....

or spend big bucks on the NisMo #1 cam (255/256 .425/.245)

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Schneider said they will do my custom spec. as seen in the attched below. However, I hate it when I ask 5 questions and only get one answered.

th_schneiderletter.jpg

"same price" by the way is $224.99

Edited by MY1PATH
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  • 2 weeks later...

still, over half the price of JWT's cams.

 

Your Point being?

cause $224.99 aint bad for a basic re-grind and $259 cuase I bought some grease and an extra cleanup feature the improves relyabilty over stock aint bad either.

and the going price for JWT S1 is now $560 so I'm still under half ($280)

 

and yes, everything has changed, Delta treated me like I was unimportant and their prices went up. So I went where everyone else can go (Schneider)So I am nolonger trying to devlop a cost effective connection that I can share with everyone. I am just simply posting my progress for those who will want to see how it ends.

 

 

edit Sorry guys, I was grumpy last night

Edited by MY1PATH
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Your Point being?

cause $224.99 aint bad for a basic re-grind and $259 cuase I bought some grease and an extra cleanup feature the improves relyabilty over stock aint bad either.

and the going price for JWT S1 is now $560 so I'm still under half ($280)

 

and yes, everything has changed, Delta treated me like I was unimortant and their prices went up. So I went where everyone else can go (Schneider)So I am nolonger trying to devlop a cost effective connection that I can share with everyone. I am just simply posting my progress for those who will want to see how it ends.

 

I think he meant the price is a good thing compared to JWT.

 

sucks about delta, but the cost difference isnt too bad, and if they work out they would be another option for us to do.

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE; I asked Schneider how it was comin

"WILL SHIP 2/18 BY UPS"

hey thats some time today :) so I should have them next week @ the latest. I got all my other engine issues cleaned up so now its just saving up for the before/after dyno, finding a place to work(and time off do do the work), shim the lifters, machine the location washers and boom!

viannen_28.gif

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Ok, So the cams are here. once I calculate differance in base circle I will make lifter shims and a lifter shim video. and I hope to be able to install these by the end of March.

(It would make a great b-day present for me from me)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Still trying for the end of the month but it MAY not happen till next month. Anyway here's some more stuff for you guys to look at...

 

Lifter shimming;

A Hydraulic lifter is shimmed to make up the differance in its designed working range and its new working range. A shim under the lifter spring(what I did) increases spring preload and redcues oil volume under the lifter vavlve. These Mildy promote better retention of oil and preasure inside the lifter during start up shut down and low oil preassure occurances.To be on the safe side do not ever use a shim thicker than 0.032" Under the spring Because it puts the valve at risk of striking the shim causing failure of the lifter.

When selecting your shim you want it to be 60-70% of the differance in the radius your cams Base Circle Diameter. So if it was a 1.300" BCD and when you got it back from the grinder it was 1.260" BCD then your differance would be 0.040" and the radus is half of that. So your shim is 60-70% of 0.020"=0.012"-0.14"

 

In my case my 70% shim was 0.020"

a 60% shim for me would have been 0.018" but that thickness is not available so I went with the 70% shim

 

I punched some circles out of 0.020" stainless steel and made this video to fill in the rest....

 

I am having trouble with the youtube tag for embedding the video so here's the link.

Edited by MY1PATH
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A shim can also be installed between the lifter valve an lifter piston using the same formula above but this shim must be carefully and smoothly macined to match the exact dameter of the pistonor premature wear will occur.They must also have hole in the center to allow Oil to the valve. This Is really the best method of shimming as it does more work than just preloading the spring because it does not allow the lifter to collapse as much. This benifits the engine at ALL times and reduces the loss of lift suffered from low oil PS or RPMs over 5500 where the hydraulic action is not fast enough to maintain full lift.

 

Both methods can be used together with no change in thickness calculations.

As a precaution, if using a shim between the lifter valve and lifter piston they MUST be fitted and closely inspected for proper intake and exhauset vavle closure(check all of them).

I would prefer to do this inspection with the head off the vehicle and for this reason(and due to the complicaton of machining) I did not put a shim between the valve and piston in my lifters. But if my next build uses regrinds I will likley do so.

 

This is also the same method 300zx guys use to make their lifters solid. But the shim they use completly locks the lifter @ the lowest reqired height so that the lifter nolonger has any hydraulic action. Getting that exact thickness becomes a complicated and time consuming project...

Edited by MY1PATH
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Its too bad you don't live closer or I'd give you a hand so we can get the results faster. biggrin.gif

 

 

Thanks man, I'm just waiting on a new balancer and then I'll do a basline dyno pull.

After that I need to have a enough time off and $$$ for a place to do it. My friends are moving out so I can't do it there so I may rent a garage or more likely I will enlist the help of a mechanic I know who works out of his own property (5 car garage turned into a pro shop lol). That way I have a place and a full shop and an experienced professional should anything un-expected come up.

 

 

P.S.

I'm also still tuning my new MSD system. :)

Edited by MY1PATH
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  • 4 weeks later...

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