BenStoked

engine mounts are the same. primary dif is the minivan motors are non-interference, and I believe make a little less hp as a result. I have never heard what makes them non-I, though.

just for curiosity sake, what kind of oil filter did/do you use? whether or not it has an anti-drainback thing may make a difference in startup issues (lifter noise, low pressure, etc.).

could have been the other truck. happens to me all the time; I think my car is making some noise, then realize it was another vehicle.

I don't believe so; the vg33 block can be bored further than the vg30 block. a little info on it here: http://www.z31perfor...aa2d6d4c5165f65 since you have to log in to see it, I will post the info here: there is a little more reading (seven pages worth) but this is the gist of the subject. Toby: bore is larger.

main differences are bore, and some coolant passages in the head. cranks will swap, as the only difference between the two is the crank snout, but there is no benefit, unless you have a vg33 equipped vehicle, the engine has died, and swapping a vg30 engine in is currently your only option, for whatever reason. Paeco used to sell a stroker crank for the vg33e, but I haven't seen one for a vg30e, ever (not even in a z31). in theory, the snout could be machined for the vg30 accessory pulley. the vg30e block can't/shouldn't be machined to a vg33's bore, there isn't enough meat to sustain it (so I have been told). if you have access to a machine shop, you could theoretically build a 4.0L+ engine out of a vg33, bored and stroked, but I haven't seen one of those, yet, either.

according to the FSM, no. but it's good insurance, if you are rebuilding.

it makes sense. the engine won't necessarily stop at the lines, every time. you may need to rotate the engine a few times to get them to line up again, after cranking.

camera guy should have stuck with v6.... what the heck does tray six mean? mebe tre-six (as in three liter v6?). I can hardly understand yankee car slang...

I... er... you... ah... Ditto what Dowser said (aside from the 33 is "getting old" bit; seriously, dude, I am 26, not too far from there... lol). plus, audi maintenance is serious coinage. AND credit is the most retarded thing, since... well, I can't think of anything more worthless to society (CREDIT is why America feels like a s*** hole, economically...).

quest and ford had some deal requiring a non-interference engine, for just such occasions. any vehicle with a vg, aside from a quest/villager will almost undoubtedly bend valves, as silverton said.

come down south, and swap for a no-rot frame. I even recently found a guy parting out two wd's, here in the City. stuck the info in the "parts for sale"

well, if you are in oklahoma city, for some god forsaken reason, this summer, I might be able to use some help with mine (pizza, place to crash, or something for "compensation" lol) I can totally understand the dedication of a passion. Computers are mine, but I can wrench; not the best in the world, but I do what I can. If I ever won the lottery, I would try for something like UTi, just to learn more about my second biggest (and more expensive) hobby. 2AM installing a radio?

for now, this is fine. once you graduate, you are no longer a guy wrenching, you are a mechanic. Mechanics get paid, always remember that. always expect compensation (pizza and beer are acceptable forms of compensation, just don't be "free"). Kudos on the choice. I think these schools are great. don't be one of the d-bags that quits, half way through. the rewards are totally worth sticking it out, regardless of what's going on.

Thank you. It'll be a while off before I do it (pessimist in me says late spring to mid summer). anyone have any thoughts on the sarter wires? the connector is physically, totally different. it fits great, aside from that, and after my test fire, I know it works. I was cleaning up the parts pile from the maxima (got rid of it, shortly after pulling the engine, and various other parts), and noticed the starter solenoid is also one wire. I may experiment with swapping the solenoid, if possible, or just hack off the wire, and splice it into the "new" one. The plans are, basic rebuild, for now. anyone got suggestions for upgrades, that I would be replacing, any way? nothing way overboard, but if an upgrade is only a little more, while I am in there I am open for suggestions.

sometimes, electronics can survive being drenched, as long as they were not powered at the time, and they are properly dried; in my younger days, I got ahold of a few computer cards that were soaked (dumpster diving the local computer shops:whistle:), let them dry for a few days, and they were good as... well, used, but they worked, and were free. The ECU is a little different, of course, but it is older technology (essentially, mid-late eighties, even tho it's a newer vehicle), so who knows? if you need a new one, keep in mind cali- or -Fed-spec, auto or manual trans, and possibly 2wd/4wd. aside from that, most mpfi pathfinders should be a working fit.

I got the truck about six weeks ago, knowing there was a problem with the engine. Previous owner said "Mechanic said it blew a head gasket." Having a little experience with VG's and what it takes to blow one, I knew the engine was not going to run, unless it came out, and got rebuilt. Weather has been pure crap, as winter always is, so I hadn't put any effort into a real diagnosis. I knew it didn't have a starter (after I bought it ), so I ordered this one off ebay () to put in. Today was nice enough to crawl around it, and I got the starter put in. Obviously, there was no oil in the engine (why remove the starter, and then replace?). I found out the starter I got has two wires, and my pathy apparently has only one (5-speed and auto difference?). cussing, and swearing, I rigged up a remote switch (1/4" quick connects, and some 14g speaker wire I had laying around). did a test "start" (not gonna try to run it with no oil ), and it works. Knowing the PO (or his mechanic) was probably full of it, regarding the head gasket, I pulled the dizzy cap for S&G. spun the engine, rotor stayed still. BEAUTIFUL!!!! BUSTED T-BELT!!!!! (I already knew it, but the test confirmed). So this thread is dedicated to the random questions I will ask regarding putting a new motor in. I got it from an 89 Maxima, and know it runs. I just pulled the passenger head off the "new" motor, to have a look-see, and it looks okay, but will probably take it somewhere for a short block rebuild (can hardly see the hatch marks, anymore, and it came out with 180k miles on the odo, don't think it's been rebuilt) first question: regarding the distributor, anyone have any suggestions on swapping one? got pics to show where it should be pointed for #1 TDC? Don't worry, there will be more.

I don't recommend it (using an aux switch); you will lose easy hi/lo switch access (will have to take hand off steering wheel), when you need it, and it is usually a good idea not to rig something. perhaps for a short term fix, but it should be fixed properly (and you will feel 100x better about the outcome). pull the harness of of the light, test for continuity on ground (should be constant) and test for voltage. will start to pinpoint problems. have you checked the relays, yet? ignore the bottom half of the picture:

What year is your pathy? sounds like your new bulbs are single filament, and OEM was dual filament. unless you blew a fuse, of course.

how are you pressing the caliper? you may need a little more muscle (I typically use a large C-clamp) if the caliper is bad, I have been told they should be replaced in pairs (something to do with keeping them equal?). try tapping the brake pedal a little, see if it moves any, or gets it unstuck.

my sunroof came with a cover, looked factory. clips on the front, thumb screws on the back. might check around for one.

check the sticky for pathfinder books. grab a 94 FSM (EL (electric) section, and maybe BF (body) )to get you started. there should be little enough difference to get you started.

as kingman said, you shouldn't, but it isn't uncommon. especially in older filling stations, water can seep into the tanks in various ways, and mix with the fuel. it can also be introduced via damaged fuel systems (notably, rotted filler neck vent hoses). my money is also on a bad fuel system component. bad pump, most likely, but also could be clogged filter or hose.

more google maps win: http://www.streetwithaview.com/

http://www.boingboing.net/2010/02/09/angry-norwegians-in.html Scuba diving Norwegians try to attack the google streets vehicle, and almost succeed.

yeah, I meant that as a good thing (also meant under half the price of JWT, not over)