adamzan Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) For the last few months I've noticed that my truck will start to jerk almost as if the engine is stopping and starting again, but only when in over drive with the torque converter locked, and under 2k rpm. If your light on the gas it will be ok but as soon as you want to accelerate it will do this unless you make it kick out of the torque coverter lock. On the highway whent it's revving at 2400 to 3000 depending on how fast I go it is perfectly fine. The trans doesn't slip or anything so I'm really confused on what this could be. Gas mileage seems alright as well. But it has felt "down on power" lately. And you guys know what I mean since we only have 153 hp... Drove it to toronto and back last weekend and it didn't do it at all on the highway, only when below 2k rpm it seems. Only starting to do something about it now as I haven't really been driving it that much since the middle of summer. Edited January 12, 2010 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 LOL Well, you have procrastinated until you have reason to excuse working on it; the cold... Ok, do 3 things... Read the entire AT section in the FSM so you understand it. Perform the AT diagnostics as outlined. Fix it. If for some reason that isn't it, look at the entire ignition system, but cap and rotor first. Make sure your fuel filter isn't clogged. Try some injector cleaner. Do a compression test. Get back to me on this... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 I'm sorry, but... Violent Jerking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Could just be that the fluid is bad in the tranny and needs to be changed...could also be fuel filter,plugs building up with oil since your rings are starting to go and the oil burning off as you increase RPMs.Could be ice in the fuel lines(dump a bttle of heat in it to fix) A former buddy of mines shadow did this (it also would be silent when on the gas but as soon as you got off it would be loud as hell) and he just lived with it.Dizzy cap and rotor(my 95 was poping and sizzling down the road until I replaced them and there was a big power increase after replacing them)Hope this helps in any way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Check your u-joints on the rear driveshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packie88 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 oh wow not only is the title funny. so what were telling you is its a little of everything os just switch out everything in the motor, tranmission, fuel delivery, and drivetrain and that should solve your problems... jk no worries. id start with the cheapest stuff first, or try a tune up for the engine and what not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 You shouldn't jerk while driving! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 Could just be that the fluid is bad in the tranny and needs to be changed...could also be fuel filter,plugs building up with oil since your rings are starting to go and the oil burning off as you increase RPMs.Could be ice in the fuel lines(dump a bttle of heat in it to fix) A former buddy of mines shadow did this (it also would be silent when on the gas but as soon as you got off it would be loud as hell) and he just lived with it.Dizzy cap and rotor(my 95 was poping and sizzling down the road until I replaced them and there was a big power increase after replacing them)Hope this helps in any way... Well the tranny fluid and filter were done last weekend by a nissan tech and he said it looked normal in the pan, though the fluid was a little dark. This has been happening for a while before that anyway. My engine doesn't burn any oil and my plugs were a brownish color, apparently what it's supposed to be. Check your u-joints on the rear driveshaft. Will do that. Will take it to my buddys shop so I don't have to lay in the snow. oh wow not only is the title funny. so what were telling you is its a little of everything os just switch out everything in the motor, tranmission, fuel delivery, and drivetrain and that should solve your problems... jk no worries. id start with the cheapest stuff first, or try a tune up for the engine and what not I'm gonna start with a dizzy cap and rotor, thing is that one of the heads of the screws is stripped so I can't get it off... You shouldn't jerk while driving! I know, bad habit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) I once had a car (old Pontiac) with a bad torque converter lock control, and it would lock and unlock whenever it wanted. Produced a kind of jerking sensation, but it wasn't what I would call violent. My fix was to disable the torque converter lock. I'm sure you want to actually fix the problem, but maybe by messing around the torque converter lock control you can better isolate the issue. (Assuming the AT diagnostic doesn't work) Edited December 16, 2009 by andreus009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 My 92 GA has the same thing,all of them did,its not the torqconverter it self but the switch that turns it on and off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddirtyrake Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 You shouldn't jerk while driving! Sounds like my friday night,IMO the only way to jerk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 (Assuming the AT diagnostic doesn't work) He seems to be ignoring that recommendation... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 I'm gonna start with a dizzy cap and rotor, thing is that one of the heads of the screws is stripped so I can't get it off... I know, bad habit So break the one thats on there now off,drill the offender out and then your good(if that side is a little loose go around it (or around the bottom of the cap) with some silicon... Dark brown colored fluid...I will say that you have oil in your tranny(engine oil)I believe that was the problem with mine,since I had a leaky main seal and I believe oil was getting in around the dip stick tube... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 I'm gonna start with a dizzy cap and rotor, thing is that one of the heads of the screws is stripped so I can't get it off... I had one like that on my 88, ended up snapping the screw and having to redrill and tap it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 So break the one thats on there now off,drill the offender out and then your good(if that side is a little loose go around it (or around the bottom of the cap) with some silicon... Dark brown colored fluid...I will say that you have oil in your tranny(engine oil)I believe that was the problem with mine,since I had a leaky main seal and I believe oil was getting in around the dip stick tube... I never said it was dark brown... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 That jerking is the same thing that happens when you let out the clutch on a manual to soon or without enough gas but the engine does't die. It's a hilarious sight but hard on the drive train. I wonder if it's your torque converter going out and not fully locking or "catching" somehow at low RPMs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 It's definitely not the TC. The rpms don't move at all when it does it and the TC is locked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 For the distributor screw, use a vice grip to get it loose. I had that happen on my old truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 12, 2010 Author Share Posted January 12, 2010 Ok well whatever was causing this has failed completely...It is not the tranny. On thursday night I was driving home from brandons house and about 1km from my place it started missing real bad and had no guts. I bought a new cap and rotor and spark plugs and replaced them. It drove a lot better but as soon as it warmed up enough it started again. It is not as bad with the new plugs though. I thought the timing belt had slipped but then again wouldn't it run bad all the time if that was the case? I find if I am VERY easy on the throttle it won't do it. And somewhere over 3k it will go away sometimes. If you put any load on the motor it will do this. I checked the codes and got 55 no malfunction... I checked the coolant sensor and the maf and they are both within the specs in the FSM when the truck is warmed. My plugs were white which apparently means running lean. I know I shouldn't have done this but if you floor it, it will pickup really nice after 3k and go all the way to 6k, and it doesn't seem to hesitate while doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Did you ever change the O2 sensor? My Van was acting like it was losing power just slightly and repeatedly (no movement on the tach, but you could feel it lag slightly), I had been getting the CEL for the O2 and replacing it fixed the lag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 12, 2010 Author Share Posted January 12, 2010 I haven't done it yet, it is about 4 months old though. The reason I haven't done it yet is because I got the code for o2 sensor before and when I replaced it, the code came back a little while later. I thought the computer was just nuts or I didn't clear the code properly. Then it came back again...So either there is a problem with the new o2 or something is wrong and triggering the o2 code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Or there is an issue with the connection/wires to the O2. There is a pinned topic about how to check the O2 with a volt meter. I'm not sure what else it could be without simply guessing. TPS?? Like I said earlier, start unplugging sensors 1x1 to see what one doesn't make any difference... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Ya check your O2 sensor, maybe you got a dud. Clear the computer after checking the wires (disconnect battery 15mins), and try again. It might be your MAF, or TPS too. The truck will rely on the MAFS primarily. If there is a problem with the MAFS, the computer uses data from the TPS to determine A/F mixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4X4pathy94 Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 i think you should change your maf adam espeacially cuz u have an extra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Oh my... *facepalm* B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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