olddirtyrake

95 path running rich and getting bad mph, not sure what I should do about this. I've cleaned the sensors, changed plugs cap wires, all new gaskets, may be a vacuum leak but I dont think so as I replaced all vacuum lines and triple checked. I have 1 broken exhaust stud so theres a little exhaust leak manifold to head but other than that I dont really know. I'm not getting any error codes just running rich and not exactly sure what to do about it. Could the TPS be misaligned? I love driving my path but its killing me at the pump.

I was driving my family to go get ice cream (2 small children and my wife)when my path died in the tunnels of all places. I had been having a problem with it dying intermittently but always started back up. It usually would happen in wet weather so I replaced cap and wires. So I had to flag down someone with a cell phone and run across and call my father. Luckily I could see the exit so I got a tow out of the tunnel to a 30 mph zone. Determined there wasn't any gas getting to the engine. I removed the service panel above the gas tank and discovered one of the 4 insulated electrodes on the sending unit had corroded and the wire wasn't attached. I wrapped a vice grip in a sock to avoid letting the wire ground out and vice gripped the wire to the electrode and wallah started right up. I just cant believe that the thing was running by the wire barely touching for weeks as it had been dying intermittently for about that long. Then I get home and the Nissan Altima had a flat tire. I guess when it rains it pours, damn this cold weather/salt belt. Bless the folks at Nissan for making a service panel to the gas tank

I havent done waterpump 5 times I've had to do timing belt 5 times. Which is basicly what you have to do for waterpump so was cake.

So Christmas morning I get done with work at 7am and I run to the grocery store. I look under my pathy and I'm pouring coolant. I refill 3 times on the way home and am furious because I just replaced the water pump preemptively less than 1000 miles ago. Replacing water pump took less than 4 hrs since I've done timing 5 times already. All in all pathy running like a million bucks again. Anyone know a common part that breaks on the auto locking hubs? My neighbors left auto hub broke and I told em I would check it out as local mechanic wants him to replace whole hub and I think It can be done for much less. Its a 95 npf if anyone has a spare one I think he might be interested as well. How you all doing anyway been awhile?

Sounds like complete BS what the parts shop is doing to you. I would talk to someone higher up. Jack me around like that and I'll come after hours and deposit a brick in ur window(Not really but man I would be tempted).

Sounds overpriced to me for 2wd, and if you have to put a couple thousand into it I would say keep looking. I picked my 4wd path for $650 minimal rust and 90k miles. Theres good deals out there look harder. If you do look at it check the frame behind the rear wheels to see if its got death rot. Ask last time timing belt was done and if they replaced the waterpump.

I dunno if he got what he fully deserved. I woulda stole his cloths and dropped the jerk off at the mall. Is he really gonna report you, thats like calling the cops because someone stole your pot.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/1879729260.html Rusty frame, cheap parts if you live around minneapolis.

I made an extension for my shopvac with tranny line going into even smaller vac lines to suck gunk/water out of spark plug holes. Works great and If you use clear line as I did you can see what was in there water oil etc.

I dunno how good it is but I just reused old gasket and slapped a coat of High temp rtv silicone on each side before I reinstalled. Doesn't seem to leak

My ECU fried exactly the same way. Tab broke off and fried the whole deal.

If It is low at idle how would you remedy that?

It does have one snapped exhaust header bolt on passenger side and always had a lifter tick but the sound got a little different sounding

It speeds up slightly when starting to rev it then sound goes away completely it basically only really makes noise when at an idle

Just wondering what you guys think this is (rod bearing main bearing bent valve terrible lifters?) dont be shy I will not be offended

Neon's are weak

Most likely the disks are breaking due to heat buildup. If you take a ziplock filled with water and prick a hole in it and hang it above where your cutting (driping right on the cutting groove or disk) You will find you can cut much much longer with the disk.

Diamond wheels are not made for metal. The compound binding the diamond to the disk heats up rapidly on metal rendering it useless. Silicon carbide disks are about as good as it gets for cutting metal. Diamond wheels are more for tile/stone. I polish agates by hand so I know quite a bit about abrasives and there uses.

You may have a bad ground. I had the same problem with a Mitsubishi I had. The battery ground was grounded to paint, They figured the metal screw going into the metal would be good enough. Well in the salt belt we have a little thing called rust that plagues everything. And there grounding bolt had enough rust on it to screw there ground frying the alternator. I scraped the paint to metal and reground, grabbed a scrap yard alt and walla problem fixed. Its problems like that that get me $2000 cars for $400 and make me a little cash.

Ya, it was a hard problem to diagnose especially for someone whos not there. I've had alot of great advice here so I never hesitate to ask.

Well replaced ecu and power transistor and I'm back up and running. I guess the metal tabs on the diagnosis pin on ECU broke off and were rolling around in the ECU. Since then I've found a super skinny tool to check codes as I'm sure a screwdriver was the tool that did me in. :)

So I'm not getting spark and I wanted to pull my codes. When I turn ignition on engine light comes on signaling ecu is powered up, but when I I try and pull codes LED lights don't flash or come on at all (I know how to pull codes). I'm wondering how someone knows if ecu is bad, or where any fuses or relays for ecu are.

ignition coil is hooked up and reading battery voltage

I had my throttle cable to tight not letting throttle fully release, and temp gauge connector is snapped. Though still isnt starting, I pulled a spark plug and I'm not getting spark, getting gas and compression but no spark. Hooked up a timing light and main coil wire to dizzy isnt sparking.

So last I drove my path was to pick up my boat, it ran OK. I had 4 leaking injectors so I pulled the intake off and replaced 4 injectors. I reinstalled my intake and replaced a few vacuum lines. When I turn ignition to on position my temp guage shoots all the way up and I hear a noticeable buzz coming from tranny. I read that the tps can cause the buzz, I disconnect it and buzz goes away. Vehicle will not start, turns over but that's it no firing what so ever. I'm stumped, last time I had the intake off for head gasket job I had no problems when I reinstalled it. My sending unit looks tired but it started when I parked it so I am lost for words. ANY advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated.