olddirtyrake

I have a snapped exhaust header bolt on the passenger side all the way in the back. I'm wondering If a machine shop can drill and tap the header while on the vehicle. I Just finished the head gasket on this thing about a week ago and I really, really don't want to take it off again. If they cant what are the downsides of leaving it snapped, can it harm anything? If they cant is there anything else that can be done, as I said I really don't have the time to go through all that again(Its getting colder every day and my garage is unheated). Funny thing is that I had it drilled and tapped on the exact same bolt while I had it off.(Probably snapped due to expansion and contraction from heat). Though this time I think it was a cheap bolt or over tightening(Kicking myself for not just doing it right the first time).

Hello, My name is Pat, I'm form Duluth, MN (home of the salty roads n Rusty junkers). I bought this 95 pathy for the 4wd in winter. We havent been getting as much snow as we used to but once in a while we get a down pour. If anyone else has been stranded because they cant get through the snow in -30 degree weather you know how valuable 4wd is no matter the fuel economy. 1 tow = $100 and up not factoring in walking in the cold weather to find a phone(I just may be the last person on earth without a cell phone).So I think 4wd saves money regardless of the fuel cost here in Duluth. Ever since I've joined this site I've been addicted to seeing all the mods and fun people have been having with their pathfinders. I want a lift eventually but not yet. Planning on making this my daily driver so until I get a fancy car and park this thing in the summer I'm going to keep it stock.Next thing I'm going to do with this thing is get manual lock hubs sounds like a great addition.I work overnights at assisted living so I have nothing better to do than read forum and post hopefully I don't rub anyone the wrong way by posting to much. So that's it for me hello everyone.

I have 95,000 miles on my 95 Nissan pathfinder Xe. Repairs I've done myself, Head gasket,timing belt,alternator,spark plugs, torsion bar, tie rod end,cv axles, Thermostat,after market at cooler, Spot weld on strut mounting, stabalizer bar studs,transmision flush. Yet to get it on the road but I want it in tip top shape before I do. I think this kitten was abused, though it has a good home now.

Good idea, is it hard to rebuild a starter? The $5 refund or whatever is weak I would rather have a spare to.

Thanks for the good advice, but I'm just replacing boot on cv joint. I don't have to remove ball joint from knuckle just the A frame has to come off for cv clearance. I hope the ball joints don't go out from all this pounding around them I have enough work ahead of me as it is

Thats almost a funny post. I tried everything,finally got passenger side off with heating and cooling A frame then I put a bottle jack underneath the A frame causing upward pressure a couple firm strikes and it popped right off. Now for the other side.

Wow, nice work that looks great. Do you find yourself using it a lot or is it more of a just in case kind of thing? Do you have to run dual batteries or a higher alternator to power it?

Could it be a dead spot in the flywheel to, or instead of? Ahh so that's how you can tell if its the dist. wasn't always sure how to tell thanks. P.S. If you do replace the starter post how you wiggled it in there. I pulled mine when I was doing my timing belt/head gasket and it seemed impossible to get a new one in there,GL.

Wow, what a pain everything was a piece of cake until it came to pulling the A-frame off the ball joint. Pounded the @!*% out of it, damn thing wont budge. 3/4 bolts snapped as well. I can't believe this b.s. This truck likes to see me bleed...

Well you did say it wouldn't start after WASHING THE CAR check or don't check just trying to help. Might as well just put new starter in like I did.

I have an irritating problem. I am removing cv's but cant get the top A-frame to come loose from the ball joint. The vehicle is on jack stands and the lower A-frame is jacked up. The 4 bolts are removed but the A frame will not come off. I was wondering If anyone has a good trick to pop this thing off. I called the Nissan dealers shop they said its just hard to get off and were of no help.

Ya I guess they didn't take that good of care of it for only having 95,000 on it. Was taking off the cv and noticed that the shock mount on the bottom is busted off. Now I'm going to have to put a good weld on that too. man that whole side is messed up. The cv boots torn,shock mount busted,tie rod end needs to be replaced, tension bar was busted,list goes on and on. Good thing its all fun right?

I think it could be moisture getting into the distributor. My girlfriends Subaru has the same problem I put a new starter in and it still has the same issue. So if its moisture I would check your distributor for cracks or unusual wear. Whens the last time you have changed the spark plugs and wires? I would check for spark and examine the distributor. Not certain but doesn't hurt to look. let me know if you remedy the problem.

Well, I'm not the most experienced guy out there, but I know it could be a number of different things. A few easy things to check might be, fuel filter(may be clogged)If you run it really low on gas a lot fuel pump or injectors may be clogged, or spark plugs,plug wires,distributor may be cracked or worn, check throttle cable for ware or slack, Air filter could be old. I would buy some seafoam, and follow the directions on the can, may clear gunky build up. And last but not least check your Transmission fluid. These are just some things I can think of could be many other things, some of the more experience members would be able to service you better I'm sure. (just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents) cat converter could be clogged as well

I'm having the same identical problem to you, and my miles are reading 90,242(funny how close they are). Plus, I think this spell checker is getting mad at me(makes me feel like I need to go back to highschool) --THANK GOD FOR SPELL CHECK OR YOU ALL WOULD KNOW HOW STUPID I AM

I have an actual blinker problem.(sounds stupid already...)But blinker blinks at twice the speed, signaling (no pun intended)that a bulb is burnt. I replace the bulb, still noting. I checked the fuse, installed two other bulbs just in case the new one got jostled but still nothing. Checked the cable as far as I could see/reach all intact. and I cleaned connectors. I really dunno whats going on with this stupid blinker. If its not one thing its another RIGHT?

PREVIOUS POSTS REDUCED FOR EFFICIENCY DIY TRANSMISSION FLUSH 1. Remove cooler lines from radiator and attach long hoses to the ends with hose clamps. 2. Using a clean bucket, place both lines in the bucket and have someone hold them there carefully. 3. Crank the engine over for a second(don't run it for long) and see which one shoots fluid out. Leave that one in the bucket and hold on to it for the next step. 4. Start the engine. Be careful, the output hose will be under rather high pressure and it may spray you if you're not holding onto it. The transmission's pump will now pump the old fluid out through the hose. 5. When the hose starts to sputter, shut off the engine. Using a funnel, pour new transmission fluid in through the fill tube. I'd say start with 6 quarts unless it really looks like you got less out of the trans so far. 6. Repeat Step 4. 7. Reconnect your cooler lines. 8. Check fluid level and adjust as necessary. originally posted by (88pathoffroad, Forum Administrator)-former jiffy lube employee- first draining and removing the pan, cleaning the filter, refit pan with a new gasket and refilling with new fluid. Then more new fluid was pumped in as the first stuff is pumped out through the cooler lines, with the motor running and selecting each gear during the process. This used about twice the quantity of fluid but put new fluid through all oil lines and the converter flushing all old stuff out without the box pumping dry at any stage. originally posted by ( geordie4x4 ) Motivated to create clean cut easy to find DIY AT transmission flush after spending 2-3hours trying to find this thread again. Thanks for this great info guys (I want all that nasty brownish fluid out for maximum heat reduction/performance TRANNY FLUSH AT FLUSH

Funny thing every time I fix something on this vehicle I find something else that was neglected. Ball joints are toast, found that out when I was getting ready to bring boots in to get fixed.

Well the level is fine but its really dark barely can tell that it was red. I know that's bad, but I'm hoping that it didn't do any permanent damage. I have had it parked ever since I bought it. Hopefully flushing, and adding an at cooler will remedy the intermittent reverse issue. Though it seems to shift through all of the gears fine when I have taken it out to check If I did the headers correctly. I was also wondering what type of tranny fluid fills in this thing. The parts store called the dealership and they said the universal (red) transmission fluid is used. would feel better to get a verification on that before I put it in since I trust this site more than anything really. -I was wondering if a at cooler with specs 3/4" x 5" x 9-3/4" would be big enough or should I get another on top of that one?(is a complete kit from nappa I snagged for $5 off ebay)

I also am experiencing that problem where it intermittently will not shift into reverse. I read a couple posts on that. Im going to flush trany and check shifter position, and install aftermarket AT cooler.(bigger the better or what?)maybe 2 coolers? well anyone with the time to answer a question or two in this post would be greatly appreciated, THANKS.

May be a stupid question but what is bars? Sounds like a viable option if the tightening of the oil pan bolts doesn't quark the leak.

I will have to double check the fluid leak upfront but I'm about 90% sure its oil, your right though have to be sure before I go turning wrenches. I wouldn't really say I'm upset to be sinking money into it, its just that every time I fix something on it I find out about something else going down hill. Dont get me wrong I know I got a steal of a deal, but between baby, full time job and college, time and money is tight. CANT WAIT TO GET THIS THING TO BE MY DAILY DRIVER,EXCITED!!! and send my pos ford 2wd to the crusher(which also only had 100,000k on it bought for $200 lol)<-- had a whiskey dent on the whole passenger side but mechanically sound.

I will try snugging the bolts when I get home, that's a great idea. I would just fix the leak (if there still is one after I tighten oil pan bolts) as I hate polluting the environment, but I have very little time lately and its going to get real cold real soon and I don't have a heated garage.So the leak will have to be leaky until summer. Thanks again for the smart thinkin. Yes, the fan clutch is a replace item. ---Cheapest fan clutch I could find was $55, Junk yard said they would give me one for $20. I remember seeing a np there with 100,000k maybe that clutch would be ok, or should I just go new?