olddirtyrake

Where Did you get that picture of me.

I think the newer and older models were different. Mine is a 95 and it has the first mark as 0, but manual does show like you say.I assume on the older models the first mark is -5.

Well here I am again, frustrated, tired, and sick of doing twice the work because of a mistake I made. I have to pull the distributor and set it back one notch because I think its timed at about 22 right now and wont go back to 15 where I would like it to be. Hopefully this will solve my problem of getting 10mpg and less as its not throwing any codes out. Is there any way to pull those 2 bolts holding it on without having to start disassembling. I think I took it off when I was doing the head gasket so it was a piece of cake. But now everything is back together and I put it back on incorrectly. I have the bolt closest to you off but the one thats further in is still on. I can barely get a wrench on it,and when I did the bolt rounded just enough to not be able to wrench it off. What the hell kind of steel did they use seems like every bolt I touch on this damn thing snaps cheap Japanese steel. I am going to try using a needle nose vice grip today if I can get it in there. Other than that I'm stumped and its like zero degrees out with out windchill. 95 nissan pathfinder XE

Thats nothing, dealer here wanted $116 for valve cover bolts. I went to the junkyard and picked up full set plus 50 other nuts and bolts for less than $5. I don't know why dealerships even exist,I mean other than people who have brand new Nissans who goes there?

Thanks everyone for the helpful information. I went to best buy and the gave me a clip that didn't fit, so I figured I would try and do it myself. This ones a little more complicated than the average cd install. I look at the harness and there's like 17 wires and 4 of them are same color pink. I think I have the model with the 8 speaker system and possibly 2 factory amps? Anyways I will just be buying the clip from wall mart instead and wire it to the player.

Well I have installed 10+ cd players just by hacking both ends and hard wiring them together. I know most of you recommend getting a clip instead of cutting factory harness. The vehicle didnt have the stock radio when I got it so Im not worried about keeping old harness. I was just wondering if anyone knows color codes for a 95 pathfinder I have been checking all over online and cant seem to find this one usually there all over the net. Would be a great help if some one could post. Thanks

Sounds like my friday night,IMO the only way to jerk

I know some say not to, but I use a razor. Since I always have used this method I'm getting good at getting it real clean without any scratches.

Its a good idea if you own a company that rebuilds/manufactures starters for cars that wont die, they just wont start.

Ya, I tried to pry it out of the way but I only see problems getting a clean seal back on so I guess I'm going to have to loosen the exhaust where it crosses over lamo. Sometimes I wonder if they designed this vehicle to make my life a pain.

I'm dropping the transmission pan and I cant get it out as it sits. Do you have to remove the exhaust pipe under it to get it to come out. Is there an easier way to wiggle it out or something because I don't want to mess with the exhaust bolts. What is recommended to seal the pan back on. Can you remove all traces of old gasket and use RTV (black)sealant gasket maker or leave old gasket on and use sealant or just use new gasket . I would like to just scrape old gasket off and use gasket maker sealant. Last but not least is trans filter recommended to replace if fluid was real dark (I think so).

When everything is off(t-belt vib-damp)is cam seal replacement straightforward? Pull old seal out grease new the new one and install with a socket a little bit smaller than the diameter of new seal then reassemble? Just make sure there's nothing I'm missing because Chilton is vague at best for describing installation of new camshaft seal.

ya I added like 4 qts X fingers bigtime. Thanks for the reassurance.

Sooo, Kinda embarrassed. Remember when I said I couldn't get oil to drop into the crank case and tranny wasn't shifting? Well, I think I may have found the problem Its me. If the tranny fill is the dipstick on the left( while looking at the engine on a 95)then I filled the engine with tranny fluid through dip stick and wondered why the tranny wouldnt shift and the engine wouldnt fill with oil. Thats because I was looking at the at dipstick dry thinking it was oil stick then looking at the tranny stick reading it was a little over. While the valve cover was full of oil and didnt look like oil was in crank case because I was reading the wrong stick and filled the wrong one with tranny fluid. Now I blew my cam seal running the engine with to much oil. Well not a big deal as long as everything else is fine. Live and learn. My question- Could anything else been damaged having it running for like 3 mins with oil and trany fluid overfilled and no trany fluid? I slowly brought the shifter through all the gears to attempt to fill them with new fluid that wasnt in there, at idle? I would have been done by now if I would have just filled the right damn dipstick GOD! Thing was running fine until I got my hands on it. Any good posts on cam seal replacement?

Thanks for the input, was starting to lose hope. now I'm refreshed and ready to go another round. Really would be a shame to have the tranny or engine cooked at this point. God its starting to get cold.

So it is a filter and not a screen? No I havent changed it yet because I drained old oil put new in to let it mex to get the most of the bad out. I was planning on dropping the pan after it mixed with the new a bit to maximize the amount of good fluid in tranny. So if the screen or filter is clogged it wont shift I bet huh?

Ya go figure, Oil leaking out of the passenger side cam seal. Still cant figure out why oil wont drop down into engine seems to stay in valve cover. so the cam seal wont be that bad, as long as the tranny shifts. I cant really see if the tranny is going to shift until I get oil to stay in the engine to fire it up.

So, after all the work I have done to this thing now this. I go to change the tranny fluid drop out the old fill with new, now it wont shift into any gears. On top of that my engine pours out oil. Cant figure out where its coming from, tightned valve covers and oil filter. Seems to be coming from passenger side of the engine around where the head bolts onto the block, but I havent located the exact position. May also have a severe crank or cam seal leak unless its getting into there from leak around head. So I'm really frustrated after thinking its time to get on the road now it may never see the trails. Going to try and figure these leaks out but may be selling this thing for parts or repair.(anyone looking to buy a nightmare lemme know I'll post some pics) Is there anything else around that area that might leak? Where is the oil pump? I poured a bunch of new oil into the valve cover fill site and it didnt want to fill the engine. poured 6qt in and didnt touch the dipstick WTF why would it do this.

Well, I don't know if this could have gone any worse. I dropped fluid, refilled amount drained, cycled through the gears slowly and it wont shift into any gears. I wasnt that scared at first figured not enough fluid maybe. So I removed both cooler lines put big Ziploc bags on the end duct taped started it to see which shot fluid out. well about a quart or two came out then sputtered I refilled and noticed I have a leak further up in the at cooler line the metal one. So I was wondering if I just snip the metal line and just use rubber if that would be ok or does it need that much metal line for the pressure? And now I see a good oil leak as well from the passenger side of the engine. tightned the oil filter and going to snug valve covers. Hopefully this will do it. I just had it driving the the night before I dropped the fluid tranny wouldnt be shot just from changing fluid would it be? maybe just low on fluid but I read the damn fluid level and it says its full. seems like theres air in the tranny still. this is so frustrating.

I read that you have to push down and pull back for N and 4L hah, Going to try that when I get home. Hopefully it works.(stupid me)

My Nissan wont go into anything other than 2H 4H. It wont shift into 4L. I am wondering what the issue could be. Linkage maybe? Maybe someone could shed a little light on this subject for me. Also wondering how the 4wd works since Im new to 4wd do you have to shift into N before putting into 4wd or is it shift on the fly, and you have to go into reverse and drive back a couple of feet before your sure its out of 4wd? what about going backwards in 4wd is it when its in its in and you can go forward or reverse while 4wd is engaged? I'm just inexperienced with this and want to know more thanks.

Ok I know this subject has been over posted but I have a new question. I live in Duluth MN it gets really cold. I bought a new Aftermarket AT cooler but wonder if installing it alone would be a mistake. It says to install it in series with factory cooler. I know factory cooler has a tendency to clog, so that poses a problem. I want my tranny to be warmed up in winter so installing it in series with factory would solve that. My uncle is a transmission mechanic and he flushes the factory AT coolers with mineral spirits. So I was wondering if I flushed cooler with mineral spirits and change the at fluid and clean the screen(is it a screen or filter that is replaceable?)would that be Ok or is anyone out there running a strait AT cooler not in series in colder climate without any issues?

Replaced the ball joints. I was going to drill them because on some Chevy's there riveted on and when some people have to take em off they just drill em and bolt them up. After I drilled em 1 sides rubber got damaged, at least I tried. Wouldn't be so cheap but I just bought a $1000 slab saw for agates

Ya, brake caliper doesn't have to come off. I removed it on one side and left it on the other, and found that it was nice having it off but not necessary its, less crowded with it off and easy to remove. UCA bolts will probably snap so be careful, I had 6/8 bolts snap, Just drilled it out put bigger bolts in and nutted them. Had the snap ring problem though, Its hard to get back on.