Harbinger Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) I pulled power for the light directly off of the dimmer switch but when I tested everything, it is completely backwards from the dash illumination; it is bright when everything else is dark and visa versa. How the hell did I do that?? Hey B, did you ever sort out the reverse illumination issue? I have the same thing happening on my truck. The autometer instructions say to connect the white wire to 12v lighting and the black to ground or to the dimmer wire on some imports. I'm going to switch the dimmer/grounds around and see if that fixes it, but thought it would be good to have the answer in this thread. *EDIT - Changing the + and - on the light bulb continues to be the reverse of the dash illumination. Edited July 16, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Yeah, incandescents don't care about polarity. I'd just wire it to ground and the illumination lead going to the cluster. Edited July 18, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Sorry Harbinger, I never solved that isssue, rather it solved it's self. By the time I got back to addressing it, I found the bulb had burned out... Done!! I do plan to go back and revisit it when I put in the new A pillar gauge pods so let me know what worked for you... B One thought, are you grounded through the wiring harness or off of an independent point like me? It might make a difference, although I do not know why. Hell, I don't know why the illumination was backwards to begin with! Edited July 18, 2012 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Sorry Harbinger, I never solved that isssue, rather it solved it's self. By the time I got back to addressing it, I found the bulb had burned out... Done!! I do plan to go back and revisit it when I put in the new A pillar gauge pods so let me know what worked for you... B One thought, are you grounded through the wiring harness or off of an independent point like me? It might make a difference, although I do not know why. Hell, I don't know why the illumination was backwards to begin with! Sounds good B. I need to double check the wire that I spliced into for the dimmer switch, or straight up contact autometer. Otherwise I may just wire it up to the parking lights - with a cover on the bulb it isn't that bright @ 100% anyway. I ran a shared ground for the gauge and bulb. Also have switches for my driving lights grounded off the same bolt. I'm having a problem with the gauge itself (or maybe the sender). My multimeter shows +12v when the truck is on (at the gauge I terminal) and grounds just fine through the G terminal, but the gauge remains dead. The sensor base has continuity with several ground points in the engine bay, so I don't think it is a ground issue there either. Edited July 18, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 With mine I had to solder a wire to the sensor T fitting and run it to a ground point (I used the battery) to make it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 With mine I had to solder a wire to the sensor T fitting and run it to a ground point (I used the battery) to make it work. I tried that today, and no dice. I'll be calling autometer tomorrow. Thinking I need a new sender but I've been wrong before! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) Somone on here made pillar pods, they look pretty good in the end. He did a step by step so you you have a good artistic or detail hand you could prolly do it. Hey all that work to put an electrical sending unit in your remote filter... FOLKS I present a new option. I put my sending unit on the end of the transmisson banjo bolt. And I can make more; fits 1/8 NPT sending units. thats the way I did my 88, I think that's the way to go, I already have an inline tranny filter just before the Rad. and running an exploder cooler and a taurus fan. We went to vegas last week and pulling the Baker grade the Autometer gauge hit 230 which I thought was pretty good considering the outside temp About the grade The grade is 15+ miles long and I think it is between 4% at the bottom, and maybe up to 8% near the top. AND, the temps there can easily be 115+ in the shade Edited September 23, 2012 by vagabond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Hey B, did you ever sort out the reverse illumination issue? I have the same thing happening on my truck. The autometer instructions say to connect the white wire to 12v lighting and the black to ground or to the dimmer wire on some imports. I'm going to switch the dimmer/grounds around and see if that fixes it, but thought it would be good to have the answer in this thread. *EDIT - Changing the + and - on the light bulb continues to be the reverse of the dash illumination. I tapped into the cig/acc light and it works fine ,it didn't make any diff on the way I hooked them up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Somone on here made pillar pods, they look pretty good in the end. He did a step by step so you you have a good artistic or detail hand you could prolly do it. Hey all that work to put an electrical sending unit in your remote filter... FOLKS I present a new option. I put my sending unit on the end of the transmisson banjo bolt. And I can make more; fits 1/8 NPT sending units. I realise this thread is a little old, but I have a question. Do i need to make this bolt or do i just rip it out. I am a little confused because I haven't looked at this side of the transmission before. If anyone could help me out.. I just installed an tranny cooler and want to see how hot it's getting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 1 Unscrew Banjo Bolt it from the transmission. A banjo bolt is a bolt with a hollow center and a cross hole to feed fluids from a pressurized bolt hole into banjo fitting and fluid line. 2 Run a same size or undersize drill through the hollow tip until it breaks through the other side. (now you have a centered hole in the head) 3 Drill head of bolt with a 11/32" or 3/8" drill STOP BEFORE THE BIT REACHES THE CROSS HOLE IN THE BOLT 4 Drill head again with a drill the size of the lip on the NPT Bung BUT ONLY DRILL 3/32" DEEP 5 Insert lip of NPT Bung into head and weld in place. TIG is preferred because of the small weld size and less cleanup required (I did mine with MIG but it took more cleanup to fit a wrench back on it) 6 Re-install NPT Banjo Bolt into the transmission and then install your temp sender into the NPT bolt. There are 2 banjo bolts, Outlet is on the right near the pan and inlet is on the left about half way up. If you install the sensor on the right side you will be getting pre-cooler temperatures or how hot the fluid is coming directly out of the TC. (TC is where most the heat comes from when unlocked) If you install the sensor on the left side you will get COOLED temperatures or how hot the fluid is going into the clutches and valve body. ( think this is more important because these are the components that are effected the most by excessive heat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky88 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 1 Unscrew Banjo Bolt it from the transmission. A banjo bolt is a bolt with a hollow center and a cross hole to feed fluids from a pressurized bolt hole into banjo fitting and fluid line. 2 Run a same size or undersize drill through the hollow tip until it breaks through the other side. (now you have a centered hole in the head) 3 Drill head of bolt with a 11/32" or 3/8" drill STOP BEFORE THE BIT REACHES THE CROSS HOLE IN THE BOLT 4 Drill head again with a drill the size of the lip on the NPT Bung BUT ONLY DRILL 3/32" DEEP 5 Insert lip of NPT Bung into head and weld in place. TIG is preferred because of the small weld size and less cleanup required (I did mine with MIG but it took more cleanup to fit a wrench back on it) 6 Re-install NPT Banjo Bolt into the transmission and then install your temp sender into the NPT bolt. There are 2 banjo bolts, Outlet is on the right near the pan and inlet is on the left about half way up. If you install the sensor on the right side you will be getting pre-cooler temperatures or how hot the fluid is coming directly out of the TC. (TC is where most the heat comes from when unlocked) If you install the sensor on the left side you will get COOLED temperatures or how hot the fluid is going into the clutches and valve body. ( think this is more important because these are the components that are effected the most by excessive heat) This is really helpfull information but unfortunately I don't think i'm talented enough to pull this off. Do you think a machine shop could do this? Also where did you find the sensor and other adaptors? Through nissan or an autoparts store? If you could make me one I could send you my banjo bolt and pay you... and love you long time haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Any welder or machine shop should be able to make a clean airtight weld for you. The bung can be found in some stores and online like summit racing and the sender usually comes with whatever gauge KIT you buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 If you install the sensor on the right side you will be getting pre-cooler temperatures or how hot the fluid is coming directly out of the TC. (TC is where most the heat comes from when unlocked) If you install the sensor on the left side you will get COOLED temperatures or how hot the fluid is going into the clutches and valve body. ( think this is more important because these are the components that are effected the most by excessive heat) I disagree, I want to know the max fluid temp since that is what degrades fluid and when that happens, your tranny life is compromised. The best world would be tranny inlet and outlet temps. This is really helpfull information but unfortunately I don't think i'm talented enough to pull this off. Do you think a machine shop could do this? Also where did you find the sensor and other adaptors? Through nissan or an autoparts store? If you could make me one I could send you my banjo bolt and pay you... and love you long time haha. You can also patch in a sensor block into the flex hose with very little trouble... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Can I use oil temp sensor & gauge instead of a tranny specific ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I mean, buy an oil temp sender & gauge kit and use it to check tranny temp, will it work ok? It is hard to find transmission temperature gauges around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Anything set up for checking oil temp is fine, it doesn't matter what it is called. The only things that matter is that the gauge fits where ever you want it, and that the set up is in the right range of temperature, 100-250F (40-120c) is the most that should be needed. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Anything set up for checking oil temp is fine, it doesn't matter what it is called. The only things that matter is that the gauge fits where ever you want it, and that the set up is in the right range of temperature, 100-250F (40-120c) is the most that should be needed. B I bought it, will install asap! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebayfish Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I wanted to share where I mounted my filter, it tucked nicely on the passenger fender behind radiator shroud. would be easy to service from the fender well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 That looks like a good place. Protected, out of the way, and easy to get to... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanic58 Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 The RE4R01A transmission has a built-in temperature sensor. There ought to be a way to intercept that feedback from the wiring harness and connect it to a gauge without too much trouble. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now