If you did it again, what would you do?

[BonnerBB]

I contemplated doing a suspension lift on top of my existing body lift. But after hearing horror stories about SL - I have backed off.

 

My buddies have had terrible problems with their suspension lifts on their pathfinders and my truck just keeps on going, and going and going... I LOVE IT!

 

I read a thread here on NPORA once that someone wrote that talked about if they were to build a new rig they would do a body lift only.

 

Anyone recall reading this thread or have any thoughts?

 

FYI - here is my current setup:

 

1991 Pathfinder SE | 3" BL | 33" Nitto TerraGrapplers | HooHaa Centerlink | Calmini Idler Arm Brace | Sliders | Stock LSD

 

A wise man named Rick once told me, "If it works, don't mess with it."

 

This wise man sold his 95 pathfinder recently because his setup just wasn't working.

 

What would your low maintenance setup of choice be for a trail rig?

Edited August 9, 2009 by BonnerBB

[beavis0076]

Buy it cheap, leave it stock, and have a f'n blast.... then buy another one.....

[94extreme]

what horror stories? imho, SL is way better then the BL anyday.. it actually improves obstacle clearance.

[beavis0076]

what horror stories? imho, SL is way better then the BL anyday.. it actually improves obstacle clearance.

 

X2

[BonnerBB]

The suspension lifts have caused them front end issues because the CV joint are no longer at stock angles... Parts prematurely wearing out and/or breaking.

[adamzan]

gotta pay to play

[94extreme]

either installed wrong, or incompletely or just user error.

[RedPath88]

You already have the biggest improvement/preventative upgrade there is for a suspension lift... and upgraded center link

 

Problems with a SL on Pathfinders/Hardbody's is Ball Joint and CV Joint angles. The CL takes care of all but the worse cases of BJ issues, while limiting SL to somewhere below "Extreme" generally eliminates the CV problems.

 

People who go a full 3in on the torsion bar crank SL lift are the ones who have issues with CV's stay at o below 2.5in and they should last a lot longer.

[Precise1]

what horror stories? imho, SL is way better then the BL anyday.. it actually improves obstacle clearance.

People who go a full 3in on the torsion bar crank SL lift are the ones who have issues with CV's stay at o below 2.5in and they should last a lot longer.

 

Pretty much. For a DD I'd go with a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift with 31-32" tires, depending on the tranny and gearing. LSD at minimum with a locker optional if you spend real time off road. Pretty much like my second Pathy will be in a month or two...

 

B

[BonnerBB]

Thanks for those that have replied... Keep em' coming!

[MY1PATH]

x2 on the lift ammount. 2.5 keeps everything in working range, I'm a little over that and my cv's bind a little @ full drop. A diff drop kit will be installed in the future to reduce CV angles.

[Kittamaru]

Well, if you really want to wheel, go for a 3+ suspension lift with an SAS - takes care of all the problems with the IFS

 

For a DD - I'm contemplating a 2" SL with 31" BFG A/T's, and keep my LSD. Only other real mod would be a set of good sliders and some undercarriage armor.

[unccpathfinder]

body lift is a good choice for starters...

 

1 its cost effective

2 its better than a SL b/c you keep a lower CG since you are only lifting the weight of the body instead of all of the sprung weight (ie engine, tranny etc)

 

the SL will work on the front end parts but I've been running mine for almost 6 months with a 3" SL and 3" BL and no issues...yet but I expect issues since everything is stock...this is why i carry trail spares

 

Pay to play is probably the key statement i've read...if you're going to wheel it you're going to wear/break something...no matter what lift you have you will eventually do some damage as even with a BL and running bigger tires you're putting more stress on the driveline/powertrain than what was intended...

 

So far I havent regretted anything and I probably wont ever SAS my rig but I do know that I will need to do upgrades/repairs

 

so far from what i've experienced with my lift since i'm still running 31's that I could have done the BL and run 33's and gotten some longer travel shocks and possibly a lockrite and been able to navigate most things within reason

 

hope that helps

[nige]

i would have kept the 31" tires for longer and got my skids, locker, winch and ARB first. Some rock sliders too. who needs clearance when you have a winch and armor.

[MikeV]

Only issues I have had were torn half shaft boots; and that seems to be from "sticks" and crap piercing them,

I would have skipped the rear sway bar quick-disconnects and just recycled my rear sway bar.

other than that (and midwest rust) 33" 3SL+3BL works for me. (adjustable shocks replace the sway bar pretty well to stop swaying at turns)

[87pathy]

what horror stories? imho, SL is way better then the BL anyday.. it actually improves obstacle clearance.

 

although agree that a suspension lift is better than a body lift.

 

a suspension lift does nothing to improve obstacle clearnace.

 

It only allows you to have more travel (sometimes) and the ability to run larger tires which give you more clearance.

[OldSlowReliable]

although agree that a suspension lift is better than a body lift.

 

a suspension lift does nothing to improve obstacle clearnace.

 

It only allows you to have more travel (sometimes) and the ability to run larger tires which give you more clearance.

 

 

SL does help you avoid High Center-ing, vs a BL which doesn't :-)

[KovemaN]

Cranked or aftermarket T-bars, rear lift springs, longer rear shocks and ditch the rear sway bar. UCAs if you can't get the front aligned.

[87pathy]

SL does help you avoid High Center-ing, vs a BL which doesn't :-)

 

 

I believe you mean to say that a suspnsion lift improves your break over angle.

this is true.

 

but does not change the relationship between the ground and your differential.

on the ifs section yes (unless you run something like the trailmaster 4" lift)

[MikeV]

Isn't the trailmaster the lift that the torsion bars crossmember is "dragging on the ground"

Not bashing it as I never used one or touched one (and slick might break my legs since I think she has 1)

[OldSlowReliable]

I believe you mean to say that a suspnsion lift improves your break over angle.

this is true.

 

but does not change the relationship between the ground and your differential.

on the ifs section yes (unless you run something like the trailmaster 4" lift)

Yeah, I couldn't remember the 2nd word, I was about to just call it the break angle, but I knew that wasn't right O_O

 

 

I think this conversation has been had previously (only tire size increases minimum clearance)

 

But when it comes down to it, I run into issues with dragging frame and such ALOT more than I run into issues with the differential dragging, which seems like it would only mattr in cases like rock climbing and such where it would STOP you from going anywhere, I think the only time my diff has dragged was in some really sticky mud that the ruts were too deep for me, and the diff dragged cause I had inertia going in, and was able to spin the tires enough to grab the sides of the ruts and crawl out....but I wouldn't have even gotten slowed down with the same tires and a 3" SL

[87pathy]

Isn't the trailmaster the lift that the torsion bars crossmember is "dragging on the ground" yes

Not bashing it as I never used one or touched one (and slick might break my legs since I think she has 1)yes

[Precise1]

Slick doesn't like hers (for wheeling anyway), it was on the truck when she got it and another member was recently asking about modifying or removing his (same story, it was on the truck...)...

 

B

[BonnerBB]

Thanks everyone!