DoctorBill Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Success ! Ran the engine at idle for about 15 minutes after dark (cooler) and watched the Talcum Powder (nice and white) with a flashlight. Narry a dark spot formed. Not one. Knock on wood..... So - tomorrow I will drive the bugger around town for a half hour. The exhaust manifold was sure slapping - tapping away ! I guess this Thread is done. If you read ALL of it, you could have stopped at the point where I put the Belts on and it ran. No A T Cooler leaks and the AT Fluid is where it should be. All is well in DoctorBill Land - for the moment. If a leak develops, "I shall return." I want to profoundly thank all those who gave me such good help. You have all been quite patient and I appreciate it. Bye for now - or until the next problem. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magregor Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 WOOOHOOOO!!!! ALRIGHT DOC!!!! Keep us "posted" on how the drive goes tomorrow instead of leaving us in suspense! Cheers to you and have a good long cigar and a few Coronas for this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Congrats! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Success ! Ran the engine at idle for about 15 minutes after dark (cooler) and watched the Talcum Powder (nice and white) with a flashlight. Narry a dark spot formed. Not one. Holy Permatex, finally you did it! Congratulations, DoctorBill !!! So - tomorrow I will drive the bugger around town for a half hour. Small ToDo list before you test-drive your rig: 1. Burp cooling system, add coolant to "Max" level. 2. Check auto tranny fluid level as described in FSM (pages MA-20, MA-21), add (or drain) some quantity of Dexron-III if necessary. Do not drive with very low (or high) ATF level, if you don't want to damage tranny. 3. After test-drive, check all fluids level: engine oil, power steering fluid (the same Dexron-III), transfer case, front and rear differentials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 "It ain't over 'till its over" - famous quote. Just realized that tomorrow, I have to take it all back down so that I can put in all the Timing Belt Cover Plates. I can then re-check the timing marks - make sure. I was thinking that we should come up with a list of lessons learned here... How about that ? I don't know why those Oil Pump Bolts had become loose - maybe they were always loose, but the gasket hadn't let go.... I wonder what happened. I sure did not mess with them - except that Alternator Tensioner Bracket + Oil Pump Bolt. That is the only one I loosened - kind of went nuts trying to get the Alternator Belt off ! It should be noted that I should not have changed two variables at one time - bad science. I tightened the Oil Pump Bolts AND changed the Crankshaft Front Oil Seal. I am assuming the Crankshaft Front Oil Seal was not the culprit. But now I will never know. However...I am a happy camper now. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 WOOOHOOOO!!!! ALRIGHT DOC!!!! Keep us "posted" on how the drive goes tomorrow instead of leaving us in suspense! Cheers to you and have a good long cigar and a few Coronas for this one! x2 Good job, DOC!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 (edited) Funny how the guy I bought this vehicle from always smelled of hot sulfur....! I am doing what Terrano1992 suggested - checking all the Fluid levels especially the oil and AT Fluid. Good thing I listened to him - the AT Fluid level was high again...strange how it varies from time to time - although I haven't really driven it enough to allow it to work as it should work. Drained out another quart - then had to add some back to the "Cold" level. After a short drive, I will check it again. Oil level is OK. Most of today I have been acting as the "Gofer" for my brother-in-law who is re-siding our house with Vinyl Siding - at a Family discount rate ! I work on the Pathfinder and then gofer this and gofer that and hold something, etc. I have never checked a Transfer Case or Differential's fluid levels. Tell me how I should do that....please! I don't want to *my "vocabulary" is so small* that up... DoctorBill Edited August 25, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 For the diff and tcase I believe you just open the fill plug and if the oil is up to the bottom of the plug hole it is full. At least that's how I was told to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 For the diff and tcase I believe you just open the fill plug and if the oil is up to the bottom of the plug hole it is full. At least that's how I was told to check it. That's the way I was told also.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 me three Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 (edited) Billowing Smoke ! All day long, I have been a Gofer and have been playing Mumble'e'peg with that freaking automatic Transmission ! This morning the Fluid level was way high, so I drained about 1.5 quarts out with a long plastic tube via siphoning - while doing Gofer service. I knew it was probably too much, so I had to add some back. Did the brake plus shifting thru the gears thing, checking the Fluid level, adding, shifting, checking - ad nausium. Long story short - I've added back most of what I drained out ! I had a Suburban 20 years ago that had an automatic. Never had this Bullroar stuff happen ! Maybe this is due to the AT Cooler not filling immediately or maybe this vehicle is the Devil's own Pathfinder. So, I drove it around town - runs fine - was very nervous expecting to hear a "Kitchen sink disposal grinding sound" any minute - nothing. Not one stinking, itty bitty, eenee weenie drop of oil has dripped out of the engine ! Can it be ? I dood it right this time....?! No more crap ? Well....one bit of something happened that had I not anticipated it would have given me the proverbial Heart Attack. Smoke billowing out of the engine when I got back home from my test drive. But no worries...had dropped some AT Fluid on the exhaust manifold. Gotcha ! Had my wife seen that, she'd have had the Hershey Squirts ! So I guess this Thread really is done. I think I can take it all down and put all the Timing Belt Covers (front and back) back where they belong, Time the bugger, then put the shroud, parking lights, rubber under cover, underside steel plate, etc etc back on... Any further adventures in Pathfinder land will be with a different title. DoctorBill Edited August 25, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magregor Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 That's music to my ears Doc! Good to hear everything went well. Thumbs up from me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 AWESOME!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Did the brake plus shifting thru the gears thing, checking the Fluid level, adding,shifting, checking - ad nausium. Long story short - I've added back most of what I drained out ! This is a "feature" of all auto trannies from JATCO. If you check fluid level while engine is stopped, you'll have incorrect readings (ATF level will be shown too high). So, check it exactly as described in Factory Service Manual (engine at idle, selector at "P" position). "Hot" level means 80-100 deg.C (normal working ATF temperature), "cold" - 10-30 deg.C. Anyway, excellent work and excellent thread. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 I did not realize that the '95 Nissan Pathfinder Automatic Transmission would be any differerent that any normal A.T. Just another case for saying that this vehicle was designed by THE THREE STOOGES ! The Oil Filter Design was bad enough ! Had they just put a two inch extension OUT from the engine block, the oil could be redirected away from everything below it. Was this vehicle designed really quickly by the Japanese to fill a perceived nich in the market? Quick and dirty designing unlike the Japanese - who I respected up until now. I know most of you NPORA folks worship the NP, but after working on it - I'll take any JEEP vehicle over a NP any day, any time, anywhere as long as it has the straight six engine ! That was the BEST ENGINE ever made.....and their AT's were indestrucible. How about folks doing a "non-partisan" listing all the wierd stuff in the design of this vehicle.... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 So, I drove it around town - runs fine - was very nervous expecting to heara "Kitchen sink disposal grinding sound" any minute - nothing. Not one stinking, itty bitty, eenee weenie drop of oil has dripped out of the engine ! Good. Finally!! You have learned a few things along the way... I know most of you NPORA folks worship the NP, but after working on it - I'll take any JEEPvehicle over a NP any day, any time, anywhere as long as it has the straight six engine ! No problem Bud, that leaves more pathfinders for the rest of us. But out of consideration, I promise to tow you out of ditches when you are stuck and give you a ride when the jeep dies on you... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I did not realize that the '95 Nissan Pathfinder Automatic Transmission would be anydiffererent that any normal A.T. Doc, what do you mean "normal"? When you check ATF level, you must do it exactly as FSM prescribed for this tranny model, or you'll take incorrect readings. It's not a personal Nissan, Toyota, Ford, GM or any other car manufacturer imperfection - this is a consequence of automatic tranny construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 wow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creekkid Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 how do you check a "normal" auto tranny fluid level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creekkid Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) "How about folks doing a "non-partisan" listing all the wierd stuff in the design of this vehicle...." DoctorBill You could do that to a Jeep too. Edited August 26, 2009 by Creekkid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) HIGH PITCHED TONE AT IDLE. Got everything back on the front end. Runs fine - no fluids leaking out after about 30 minutes at idle. I am hearing a rather loud high pitched constant tone which disappears if I rev it up, then comes back at idle. Any ideas on that ? I don't want to hurt the Water Pump Bearing, so I am tempted to loosen the Alternator a bit. I can push the Alternator belt down about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with my Mallet Handle. I figure maybe if I loosen the Alternator Belt and it doesn't squeel, it will be OK. I can always tighten it later - hurting the Water Pump Bearing is forever....more or less. lol Air Conditioner Tensioner Pulley sounds loud. You can hear the AC Tensioner Pulley as the engine idles. Should not be able to ! I think maybe I should buy a new AC Tensioner Pulley. When I spun the pulley on the bracket before I installed it, I could hear the bearings. I imagine if they were good, I would hear nothing. I understand trying to lubricate them will make things worse - I'd get dirt into them. Ball or Roller Bearings ? MAIN HARMONIC DAMPENER BOLT Put Permatex Blue Thread Lock (not permanent) on the HD Bolt. I could not get my Air Hammer in there, so I put my 1/2 socket wrench on the Bolt and whacked it with a rubber mallet several times to tighten it. Do you think that was sufficient tightening ? It should be about 95 ft-lbs torque according to the FSM, but I don't want to try getting to the starter and jamming any gears. I have had enough with boogering one thing after messing with something else. I have no idea what whacking the wrench yielded, but the Thread-Lock should keep the bolt from wandering out - yes ? HOW DO YOU TIME THE SPARK ? I am using an old SEARS timing light connected to the Number One Spark Plug. The Timing is at 30° BTDC or at the last mark on the right of all the marks (exactly). If I loosen the one Bolt on the right side of the Distributor (the only bolt to loosen ?), which direction should I turn the Distributor to go back to 15° BTDC ? Will I get zapped easily turning the Distributor - Spark ? Unpleasant experience ! APPREHENSIVE ! Nervous....if it ran for 30 minutes, could anything go belly up at this point ? I figure if anything were done really wrong, I would have known about it within a few seconds ! DoctorBill Edited August 27, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hey Doc. What you did for the HB bolt is probably fine. Spray some WD40 or something similar in the AC tensioner as it spins. If it quiets down, it's definitely shot. High pitched tone could be that very pulley, so see if that makes it go away. The high pitched tone could also be from your timing being WAY off. Timing is exactly as you've described. You won't get zapped by the distributor as long as your cap isn't cracked, or your wires are properly insulated. If you're apprehensive, wear gloves. I'm believe you'd have to turn the distributor to counter clockwise to drop the timing back down to 15 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magregor Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 In my experience with timing engines...you have to disconnect the vacuum advance on the distributor before putting the timing light on it, as it has spark advance when the engine is at idle...not sure if the pathy's have a vacuum advance or electronic advance...check the fsm before tackling for sure...as the engine may be perfectly in time already... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 I got a question, when I did my timing belt I didn't time the spark? Was I supposed to or is there something you removed that I missed in this thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 If you didn't move the pulleys, your timing shouldn't have moved, though, you should have checked it to be sure. However, with all that "Doc" went through, timing the spark is definitely a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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