adamzan Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 The first time this happened was on Saturday, I was driving back from a friends place, and when I when to take a slow turn on to another street, the steering felt hard, and then I saw the truck had died. I was like wtf. So I coasted to the side of the road, and tried to start it again. It would crank, start and die, crank start and die. Eventually I got it running, but it was idling from 1k down to like 200 and up. So I revved it a bit and it seemed fine and I drove home without further problems. Sunday morning I go to go to my dads house at about 7 am and when I'm almost there it died at a light. This time it started right up but was idling funny again. Although It would never stall while at cruising speed, and if i gave it gas it revved fine...I didn't get a CEL either. I also drove it to school and back today, it was fine. I have no clue what could have caused it. I looked under the hood and checked for obvious things (loose hoses/wires etc) but everything looked tip top. Would appreciate some wise words... I actually saw the PO at school today I will update if I find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlion Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I had similar issues a while back. Turned out to be a mass air flow sensor and the throttle position sensor needed to be adjusted. As the problem got worse, the truck died at every stop unless I went to neutral (AT). Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 (edited) I had similar issues a while back. Turned out to be a mass air flow sensor and the throttle position sensor needed to be adjusted. As the problem got worse, the truck died at every stop unless I went to neutral (AT). Hope this helps. Hmm Maybe. I know the TP sensor is good, it was replaced a little while ago as I thought it was causing another problem, but it didn't affect anything. I have 2 spares now. MAF is known good as well, because when my cat clogged and the truck wouldn't run they checked it out too. But, I'll give it a cleaning this week anyways. Other than that it runs OK for a 95 with 155k miles. Except that it does need a bit of a tune up. But the truck should still RUN. I don't think you can adjust the TPS or MAF on a wd21....I think they're either there, or not Edited September 30, 2008 by redfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 First step would be to run the codes on the ECU, especially right when it happens. Print out a copy, put it in the glove box... It could certainly be what silverlion said. It could be a bad wiring connection to sensors also, especially because it is intermittent. Best start checking connectors and if/when it happens again and you can, pop the hood and move wires/connectors to try to isolate the problem. That should be plenty to start... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 First step would be to run the codes on the ECU, especially right when it happens. Print out a copy, put it in the glove box... Will it put out a code even if there is no CEL? It could certainly be what silverlion said. It could be a bad wiring connection to sensors also, especially because it is intermittent. Best start checking connectors and if/when it happens again and you can, pop the hood and move wires/connectors to try to isolate the problem. That should be plenty to start... B Mhmm, now just to wait and see if it happens again I don't have a pile of money to dump into this thing so hopefully it's something simple. I may park it for a bit and drive my grandmas car again until I get it running better. But we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I had the same problem with my old truck, and it was always the MAF wiring. I just gave the connector a jiggle, and was good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 I had the same problem with my old truck, and it was always the MAF wiring. I just gave the connector a jiggle, and was good to go. That will be the first thing I do if it happens again. I noticed that my 93 had a little rubber protector/grommet thing over that part. I guess with age and heat they just degrade and fall off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 Will it put out a code even if there is no CEL? Does that bulb work? Yes, it may... That will be the first thing I do if it happens again. Ya tell the kid. Does he listen? No... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 Well this morning before I left for class I had to fill the washer fluid, and I decided to wiggle the connector to see if I could cause it to act up, I wiggled it a bit and nothing happened. And B yes the CEL works just that it never came on when this happened. Come to think of it, it was really rainy and humid this past weekend. Maybe that had something to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I decided to wiggle the connector to see if I could cause it to act up, I wiggled it a bit and nothing happened. Your symptoms are very similar to low fuel pressure. Try to check it. One 50psi pressure gauge, one T-joint, two short pieces of fuel hose and several hose clamps - you can do it yourself. Install gauge between fuel filter and fuel injector ramp. Moreover, you can fix gauge to something under the hood and normally drive car with all this stuff. When malfunction come again, you can immediately coast to the side of road, open hood and shoot a glance at gauge. Normal pressure is 34 psi at idle. When it drops to 28 psi and lower, engine has significant lack of power and rough, low idle (or stalls and dies immediately after start, if pressure is too low). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 (edited) I would check the idle air control valve solenoid. If you have a multimeter, it takes like 10 seconds to check. It is not a circuit that is monitored by the ecu so it wont spit a code. I had the same problem on my old pathy, but not saying that is your problem. There is a procedure in the FSM, but all you have to do is check the resistance of the connector that you take off to adjust your idle speed. If I remember right it should read about 70 ohms. (I don't have the fsm with me right now.) If it does read properly, it could still be bad mechanically or just stuck. They are pretty easy to disassemble and clean. I went through 2 timing belt changes, head teardown/valve replacement, fuel filter, and finally a new rig before I found out about that stupid solenoid. The only reason I found it was that I knew the intake from my old one (the one with the problem) was cleaner than the one on the newer pathy I bought, so I decided to swap it. The original problem swapped with it! Since there are only a few things to check on the plenum, I checked everything and found that solenoid bad. I swapped them out, and whala, idled like a champ. hope that helps. indigent. Edited September 30, 2008 by Indigent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 crappy idle and stalling sounds like the MAF connection is loose or a broken wire. Same problem on my 95. The wire from the connector on top of the MAF was actually hitting the underside of the hood and flexing when I would hit bumps and cause it to crap-out. My dodge van had a problem stalling on decelleration or at idle. Under power, it was fine. It was the idle-air-control valve. my 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paffphinder1989 Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 (edited) The first time this happened was on Saturday, I was driving back from a friends place, and when I when to take a slow turn on to another street, the steering felt hard, and then I saw the truck had died. I was like wtf. So I coasted to the side of the road, and tried to start it again. It would crank, start and die, crank start and die. Eventually I got it running, but it was idling from 1k down to like 200 and up. So I revved it a bit and it seemed fine and I drove home without further problems. Would appreciate some wise words... My truck did the EXACT same thing. It ended up being fixed with an intake/induction cleaning. Check out this post fer more info: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry327716 Hope this helps! I also have a video of my truck doing this on Youtube. Search "1994 Nissan Pathfinder Problem" Ha ha I guess you actually commented on that old topic too! The video may or may not help, but good luck! Edited September 30, 2008 by Paffphinder1989 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 1, 2008 Author Share Posted October 1, 2008 Your symptoms are very similar to low fuel pressure. Try to check it. One 50psi pressure gauge, one T-joint, two short pieces of fuel hose and several hose clamps - you can do it yourself. Install gauge between fuel filter and fuel injector ramp.Moreover, you can fix gauge to something under the hood and normally drive car with all this stuff. When malfunction come again, you can immediately coast to the side of road, open hood and shoot a glance at gauge. Normal pressure is 34 psi at idle. When it drops to 28 psi and lower, engine has significant lack of power and rough, low idle (or stalls and dies immediately after start, if pressure is too low). This sounds like it could be part of the issue, as sometimes, the truck will start with a tap of the key, or, if it sits overnight or a couple days it lakes 5-8 turns of the motor to start it. I would check the idle air control valve solenoid. If you have a multimeter, it takes like 10 seconds to check. It is not a circuit that is monitored by the ecu so it wont spit a code. I had the same problem on my old pathy, but not saying that is your problem. There is a procedure in the FSM, but all you have to do is check the resistance of the connector that you take off to adjust your idle speed. If I remember right it should read about 70 ohms. (I don't have the fsm with me right now.) If it does read properly, it could still be bad mechanically or just stuck. They are pretty easy to disassemble and clean. I went through 2 timing belt changes, head teardown/valve replacement, fuel filter, and finally a new rig before I found out about that stupid solenoid. The only reason I found it was that I knew the intake from my old one (the one with the problem) was cleaner than the one on the newer pathy I bought, so I decided to swap it. The original problem swapped with it! Since there are only a few things to check on the plenum, I checked everything and found that solenoid bad. I swapped them out, and whala, idled like a champ. hope that helps. indigent. Thanks, I will dig out my multimeter and check that puppy. My truck did the EXACT same thing. It ended up being fixed with an intake/induction cleaning. Check out this post fer more info: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry327716 Hope this helps! I also have a video of my truck doing this on Youtube. Search "1994 Nissan Pathfinder Problem" Ha ha I guess you actually commented on that old topic too! The video may or may not help, but good luck! Yeah it's similar to your video except yours was doing it smoothly. Mine goes down and struggles immensely to come back up. It still hasn't happened again, hopefully it won't. I got a code 45 injector leak again last week. Strange how in between these spells it runs fine and as far as I can tell, gas mileage is relatively the same. Though I never really floor the truck around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 My money is on a coil or distributor cap issue. You said it was damp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 And the cap is cracked... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 My money is on a coil or distributor cap issue. You said it was damp? It's easy to reproduce. Take a spray can (with good nozzle, to produce mist, not drops) and gradually spray water to suspected parts (coil, distributor cap, spark wires...) on working engine. Do not "flood" them, only damp down and wait some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 (edited) Alright, well it happened again last night, and today. Last night I had got home late from thanksgiving, and it stalled as I pulled into my neighborhood (it's a sharp slow turn). Today it was stumbling as soon as I started it to go to my other thanksgiving dinner. It wouldn't stall, just stumble. Also when you went to give it gas to go, it was like a weed eater that wasn't warmed up, you know, where it almost stalls then comes back up. I checked the ecu, no codes, no CEL either. I'm going to try Terrano1992's idea tomorrow after school. Weird as when I'm driving at speed, it runs fine... Edited October 14, 2008 by redfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Have you replaced the dizzy cap? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfisch1191 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 its a long shot but i had similar problems when my altenator was going out, hows the power? could be a loose wire some were. cause a bad wire/loose wire would cause really low power to the coil causing it to run at 200 rpm. just a guess since everyone else coverd everything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Have you replaced the dizzy cap? B Not yet. I was gonna wait for that box 'o' parts from naturatek but I may have to go and buy one. its a long shot but i had similar problems when my altenator was going out, hows the power? could be a loose wire some were. cause a bad wire/loose wire would cause really low power to the coil causing it to run at 200 rpm. just a guess since everyone else coverd everything else. This is interesting, as what I believe to be the alternator, has started to whine under the hood, and over the speakers, it's getting louder as the weeks go by, actually. I will check the voltage with my multimeter. I guess that's my fault for running without the splash guard for a month in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brine Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 its a long shot but i had similar problems when my altenator was going out, hows the power? could be a loose wire some were. cause a bad wire/loose wire would cause really low power to the coil causing it to run at 200 rpm. just a guess since everyone else coverd everything else. I had a problem like that with my pathfinder..It started getting worse where it died more often..Even when driving..I turned on my truck..Kept the radio on with the windows open and began moving the wires that went into the positive on my battery..Sure enough one of them that came into the positive was loose..I pulled the wire out of the clip, cut the wire back a bit and exposed more of the wire eposing a new part of the wire,and made it snug in the clip..Never had a problem since..Maybe this could be your issue also..good luck man..I know its annoying.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 Okay, it happened again tonight, really bad. I could REALLY smell the raw fuel. I decided to check the maf again, and low and behold I pushed it in more, and it idled up fine again. Upon closer inspection with my cell as a flashlight, I discovered one of the wires is BROKEN down there. I guess off to the JY sometime to get another one. I just shoved it down in there for now. Although it idled back up fine, I still think there is a problem with the alternator and the ignition, as the truck didn't "feel" the same as usual (stumbled a little when driving). Also there is a whining under the hood, and its starting to come over the speakers as well....... And BTW, during this entire time, I NEVER got a CEL or code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Little Red, 2 weeks ago that is what I advised you do and Simon was more specific on which sensor. Today you are suprised to learn it was sensor wiring? Fix/solder the wire, check all connections and add some dielectric grease for good luck... Why buy another one that may have it's own problems. The CEL is there for convenience (ie idiot light). NEVER count on it, if/by the time it lights you usually have major issues... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 Little Red, 2 weeks ago that is what I advised you do and Simon was more specific on which sensor. Today you are suprised to learn it was sensor wiring? Fix/solder the wire, check all connections and add some dielectric grease for good luck... Why buy another one that may have it's own problems. The CEL is there for convenience (ie idiot light). NEVER count on it, if/by the time it lights you usually have major issues... B Yeah I took your advice the first time and wiggled all the connectors when it happened the second time, and it did nothing, I would assume because wire was was broken and wiggling it didn't put it back in its place. The only cel code I get once and a while is injector leak, but I have no injector leak. (It was checked) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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