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Pathy 3 link SAS build


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uhh, why do you think i took the inner c's off to begin with? LOL

 

Ah, thought you just disassembled it and discovered the Cs were bent. I know a lot of people don't bother with clocking when they SAS.

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Got the new c's on and welded.

 

Polished the axle tubes. Gotta have TeH Bling Bling!

 

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damn axle tubes are kinda thick!

DSCF1396.jpg

 

Whats for lunch?

 

DSCF1394.jpg

 

finally!

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weld

 

DSCF1398.jpg

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Spot welded the coil and link brackets on.

 

DSCF1400.jpg

 

clearanced the coil bucket to the inner c's... prolly weld them to the c's also.

 

DSCF1401.jpg

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Looks awesome. Those coil mounts are far apart. But it may be the axle differences. What is the WMS on that axle compared to a waggy axle?

 

Hmm, EB d44 are 58 inch WMS-WMS and waggy axles are 61 inch wms-wms. but with chevy flat top knuckles and spindles the EB axle becomes 59 inches. The brackets are actually slightly inboard of center of the coil buckets on the frame... thats why i clearanced the bottom spring plate.

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I got the lower link frame mounts welded in..

 

Drivers side tacked in

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welded up

 

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passengers side welded up.

 

DSCF1412.jpg

 

cut out both inner fenders for coil bucket clearance.

 

DSCF1408.jpg

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Not much progress, but i did get the lower links all built and put in for mock up.

 

Drivers side lowers

 

DSCF1256.jpg

 

DSCF1257.jpg

 

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Passengers side.

 

DSCF1263.jpg

 

DSCF1261.jpg

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Got the new c's on and welded.

 

Polished the axle tubes. Gotta have TeH Bling Bling!

 

DSCF1392.jpg

 

damn axle tubes are kinda thick!

DSCF1396.jpg

 

Whats for lunch?

 

DSCF1394.jpg

 

finally!

DSCF1399.jpg

 

weld

 

DSCF1398.jpg

are you using a wire feed on all the welds? i would have stick welded the c's with a 6010 root and a 7018 cap. you wont get very much penetration with a wire feed on that heavy of metal....

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are you using a wire feed on all the welds? i would have stick welded the c's with a 6010 root and a 7018 cap. you wont get very much penetration with a wire feed on that heavy of metal....

 

Ehhhh..... I think maybe you don't know what you are talking about. I have a 300 amp power supply.... i cranked it up enough to get discoloration on the inside of the tubes.... no need to stick it. You think spicer stick welded the c's on? HA!

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I finally got the upper link frame mount figured out.... i wanted something really close to the frame and mounted up high to maintain correct geometry and leave space for the driveshaft and exhaust..... this is what i did.

 

Bracket i started out with..

DSCF1267.jpg

 

Where i wanted the bracket to go

 

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Hmmm.... no where to put a nut....

 

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solution!

 

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After i modded the bracket to mount flush with frame..

 

DSCF1268.jpg

 

Welded ( don't bash the welding job... kinda hard to get into places under there...

 

DSCF1269.jpg

DSCF1271.jpg

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Oh yea, anyone who says this is a bad idea.. i agree, but the automakers use spot welded nuts in frames too. Hopefully i never strip this one out.

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Very nice. Thats exactly were I need to move mine. I am considering running the bolt all the way through the frame. Problem is the longest 9/16 or 14mm bolt is 6". I think I need 6.5".

I was thinking of doing that... then i saw the body mount on the other side... worse comes to worse i will hole saw a hole and weld in a piece of dom... but until then, i think this will work.

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I don't think that's a bad way of doing it, since you are very limited to what you can do. Did you primer it on the side that sits on the frame? Because if that starts rusting, then it won't be fun anymore. If you didn't primer, you could get some rubberized undercoating that comes in a aerosol can. Stick that in a frame hole and give the inside a good splurtin'! Good build so far, the way I'd do it if I had time. How often do you work on it?

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I don't think that's a bad way of doing it, since you are very limited to what you can do. Did you primer it on the side that sits on the frame? Because if that starts rusting, then it won't be fun anymore. If you didn't primer, you could get some rubberized undercoating that comes in a aerosol can. Stick that in a frame hole and give the inside a good splurtin'! Good build so far, the way I'd do it if I had time. How often do you work on it?

 

I did give it a shot of black paint, and will also use some copper anti seize. I work on it probably 2-3 times a week... i usually try to get one thing done a day. Alot of stuff to do just to stick the axle under the truck!

 

That's coming along real nice man.

 

Good work :aok:

 

Thanks!

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Dumb newbee question here. Would a dana 44 out of a 93 dodge ram 150 with 3.90 gears an open diff be any good for a SAS? If not what should I be looking for?

 

No, because that would be a passengers drop axle, only dodges after 94 are drivers drop. Look for a jeep grand wagoneer/wagoneer drivers drop axle, seems like thats the axle of choice today.

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Got a few things done that past few days...

 

Welded up the tierod and assembled knuckles and hi-steer arms.

 

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Decided to weld on the panhard bar mount on the axle...

 

How the bracket looked like.

 

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After modification to fit to axle

 

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I them welded up the panhard bar and decided to check the potential wheel travel...

 

Hmmm...

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This is way over stuffed.... the tire would be in the engine bay...

 

DSCF1279.jpg

 

Droop stopped by floor.

 

DSCF1281.jpg

 

Still got to fabricate top link and mount to axle...

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Well.... tacked the upper link bracket in....

 

DSCF1296-1.jpg

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Decided to slap the coils in and put the trucks weight on the axle. There is about 30 inches from the center of the wheel to the stock fender edge.

 

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Axle on the floor...

 

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The links are basically parallel with each other so pinion angle remains close to ride height throughout all suspension cycles. No bind anywhere and awesome wheel travel to boot.

 

Last pic showing links and such...

 

DSCF1297-1.jpg

 

 

Next thing to do is remove the axle and weld up all the brackets... looks like im going to have plenty of space for a driveshaft and exhaust.

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Alot has been done since I last posted. I didn't have the camera for it all because Ashley was presenting her research at the ACS conference in philly. Basically i removed the axle, welded everything up, quick spray bomb job, installed the OX locker and gears back in, then i installed the heavy ass axle back into the truck, fabbed up some really simple shock towers, installed knuckles onto the axle, put together the chromoly axles on the drivers side with the alloy usa joints, then put the spindle, bearings, brakes, and lock outs on....... jeez... lotta stuff. Here is some pics i took today after finishing up the drivers side.

 

This is at ride height, it will sit another 7-8 inches higher because of tires and wheels. the jack stand under the sliders have no weight on them. just there for safety.

 

Drivers side

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Pass side

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Drivers side shock tower

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From above, not much room between it and the brake booster!

DSCF1086.jpg

 

Passengers shock tower

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Lotta room above!

DSCF1089.jpg

 

More pics after i finish passengers side.

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