How To Improve Sound With Aftermarket Audio System?

[mora2818]

Sounds like this is getting a little too complicated. If you go back to what you are wanting, Bass and soften your current setup while not spending much money and not sacrificing space, I am not sure getting high end components is the best way to go. Talking about sensitivity and nominal power probably just confuses Dean guessing by his question in the first place. Now I am making that assumption so if wrong take no offense.

 

With that said I would try and figure out for a way to "replicate" a JL Stealthbox. Because you don't want to kick down that money, go to all the local shops and see what they would ask for something similar of for some fiberglass box to be done. You could also see about having some 8's setup in the doors too. There may also be some locals that can do that for you. From what I hear and have seen, Fiberglassing is actually quite easy if you have the materials. There are plenty of good $100 subs out there that will give you a great sound; JL, Image Dynamics, BA, the list goes on.

 

For solving the "brightness" problem I see it 2 ways. Either buy a better set of components or get an Equalizer. Both would probably cost about the same. Better components get you a better sound and smooth out the brightness, but you'll need match up a pair with your amp that will work good together (reference to power sensitivity). The other way is to get a equalizer to control and tune the sound to your liking. These things do wonders and can be had on Ebay for $100 for a great one. They can make ok systems sound great.

 

A quick note, rear speakers are otherwise useless hence why everyone keeps telling you to run them off the deck. Many people in competition settings don't run them at all or use some means as to quite them down a lot. You don't want any sound coming from the rear forward. Your stage should be in front of you.

 

The bad news is you are in essence trying to kill 2 birds with 1 stone but physics don't allow it. You have to move air in large volumes to create Bass. There is no real trick around this. The tricks are using air projected off the movement of the speaker to increase that volume. In other words a tuned box, but that requires additional space. So anyway you slice it, you want Bass, you need a sub.

[MichiganAve]

Lol, we need to try to simplify huh? Let me just make some flat-out product recommendations then:

 

1. Run your current rear speakers off your deck. Keep the deck and amp. Sell your front speakers.

 

2. Get a sub for more bass. A JL W1 will work great off that bridged power. $115. If the stealthbox is too expensive build your own or try local shops for some quotes.

 

3. Get new components up front to replace the coaxials. I mentioned the focal 165 A1s because for their price ($165) and power requirements they are great speakers. If you want to choose something else, look at the suggestions I wrote earlier (add boston to that list too).

 

4. Get an EQ to tailor the system to your taste. Like the Audio Control EQL ($170).

[XPLORx4]

Lol, we need to try to simplify huh? Let me just make some flat-out product recommendations then:

 

1. Run your current rear speakers off your deck. Keep the deck and amp. Sell your front speakers.

 

2. Get a sub for more bass. A JL W1 will work great off that bridged power. $115. If the stealthbox is too expensive build your own or try local shops for some quotes.

 

3. Get new components up front to replace the coaxials. I mentioned the focal 165 A1s because for their price ($165) and power requirements they are great speakers. If you want to choose something else, look at the suggestions I wrote earlier (add boston to that list too).

 

4. Get an EQ to tailor the system to your taste. Like the Audio Control EQL ($170).

 

OK, thanks for the "bottom line" info. This is pretty much what I was looking for in this thread. I like clear music, but I actually am not that big of a mobile audiophile. The main problem I have is that whenever I hop in the truck, the sound is too different from my daily driver (Mazdaspeed6 with factory Bose system), which has tweeters, 2 front door speakers, 2 rear deck speakers, and a rear deck-mounted 9" sub. Keep in mind that I've had my factory Bose in the Pathy for 8 years, and except for one of the speakers buzzing because it got wet, I didn't have many complaints about it until I had a better OEM system to compare it to.

 

So....

 

First, I'll look into replacing the fronts with some components. I suppose I'll try to sell the current speakers, so I have a little more budget to play with on a replacement set. I was hoping to stay around $100-$125 out of pocket. If I'm still not happy with the sound, I'll run the rear speakers from the HU to free up Ch3+4 for a sub. (I can probably simulate this using the fader.) I'll look into a custom sub, but that's likely going to get expensive. The HU has a semi-reasonable adjustment for Bass, Mids, and Highs, so an EQ will be last on the list, likely months out.

 

Everyone- Thanks for the tips and advice. I'll let you know what I end up doing!

[mora2818]

There we go, skip the foreplay and straight to the action. I couldn't have made any better recommendations myself. Let us know how it turns out.

[daftpup]

Michigan Ave has the best solution for you.

[FUELER]

hah u not an audiophile but you got a damn kenwood DVD head unit, alpine amp, speakers, etc. LOL.

 

 

Trust me bro - YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT PATH. That Head unit looks bad ass, you can never go wrong with an alpine amp, you just need some bass. I wouldn't change your speakers - the setup sounds good. You are just missing the low-end which I can understand. Bass is like crack. End up getting withdrawals and @!*%. Next thing you know you are knocking on doors asking for two dollars and selling black porn out of a cardboard box. Bass might do that to you.

 

I compared a kenwood coaxial speaker up next to a Bose QX4 speaker today. The difference is tremendous. The Bose looks like a small subwoofer, whereas the Kenwood looks like it is built for strictly mids and highs. Yeah the Mazda Bose sounds "better" (probably well-rounded but not louder) than the pathfinder setup..... So what, your pathy had a bose too and you remember what it sounded like. You probably replaced it for a reason. I know I did.

 

 

Add some bass, and the Nissan will blow the Mazda out of the water - not to mention capability to add a USB thumb drive, ipod, bluetooth, cd changer, mp3 player, and subwoofer control. Stock stereo SUCKS!!!!

Edited May 24, 2007 by FUELER

[FUELER]

and yes i am writing this BS at 3:30 am. What the $#&%. I figure this guy Dean has always helped with ANYTHING R50 RELATED. We owe this dude some info.

 

 

Dean - you are probably listening to classic rock and watching DVDs. Man, for a

whole and rich sound, you need to match those amped speakers up to some bass. Trust me you will not be rattling the neighborhood, knocking pictures off the wall with a nice 8 or 10 inch sub.

 

Let us know what you decide bro.

Edited May 24, 2007 by FUELER

[XPLORx4]

Hahahaha. LOL, fueler.

 

I actually listen XM Flight 26, 80's, 90's and Cinemagic most often. DVD's are for when I go camping.

 

Unfortunately, I *might* have to postpone my audio upgrade endeavors. Yesterday I received my DMV renewal. I need to get SMOG again. Crap. Two years ago, I failed SMOG and had to dump over $2K into it to get it to pass. Hopefully, this year won't be a repeat!

[MichiganAve]

Unfortunately, I *might* have to postpone my audio upgrade endeavors. Yesterday I received my DMV renewal. I need to get SMOG again. Crap. Two years ago, I failed SMOG and had to dump over $2K into it to get it to pass. Hopefully, this year won't be a repeat!

 

Don't scare me, I'm starting the cross-country drive to the People's Republic of California tomorrow... Not looking forward to the smog test.

[FUELER]

why, you registering your car here? u dont have to smog if you just visit.

[MichiganAve]

why, you registering your car here? u dont have to smog if you just visit.

 

I shall be "visiting" California for a minimum of 3 years and working for state run hospitals at a state run university with a paycheck from the state. So I think I'm stuck getting my license and registration in California.

[XPLORx4]

Heheh, get a personalized plate:

Edited May 24, 2007 by XPLORx4

[Airrun2002]

Digital Audio take a look at some of these enclosures, i have one of the 2x 10s bandpass boxes and they sound amazing they got the bass tubes that would fit on top of you wheel well ive never had any problems with mine ive had them for 3 years. good stuff

[Airrun2002]

Digital Audio take a look at some of these enclosures, i have one of the 2x 10s bandpass boxes and they sound amazing they got the bass tubes that would fit on top of you wheel well ive never had any problems with mine ive had them for 3 years. good stuff

[FUELER]

finally coming off this hangover.

 

 

check this out - my friend has a chevrolet conversion van with some custom work...

 

 

It has:

-Pioneer DVD/Navigation Flip-out HU

-TracVision Mobile DirectTV

-32" LCD HDTV

-MTX Highs

-MTX Amplifiers

-2 Kicker CompVT 12's sealed, in custom enclosure

-Avital 2way RemoteStart/Keyless/Alarm

-Lorenzo 22's

 

And suches...

 

 

 

[DJ Dank]

Wow, that LCD... Whats the outside of that thing look like?

[Acey]

Here is my basslink in the back my pathy. It has a built in 200W RMS amp. I still haven't finished mounting my other amp.

 

[XPLORx4]

Over the weekend, my friend helped me build a very primitive enclosure for dual 8" subs he had in his garage to see if I'm happy with the sound. I forget the brand of sub, but it's not a "normal" brand. Each sub is rated at 8 ohms, and they're wired in parallel. I'm happy to say that the sound quality of my system has markedly improved! It sounds great!

 

I tried the subwoofer box with only one driver connected, but the disconnected driver just acted like a passive radiator, allowing the connected driver to distort too easily. Plus, the enclosure is sized for dual 8's. Nevertheless, it still sounded much better than before. I connected the second driver back up, and it doesn't distort at high volumes like it did before. I think I just need some more time to play with the settings, crossover points, and amplifier gain to see if this is good enough.

 

So, now I need to determine whether to use:

a) a single 8" sub

dual 8" subs

c) a single 10" sub

 

The main benefits of using a single 8" sub is that it can use a smaller box (taking up less cargo space) and the sub itself is basically free. However, the current "test" enclosure is designed for dual 8's, so I'd have to build another test enclosure for a single 8". Dual 8's sound pretty good, but the final box might be bigger than I prefer.

 

Finally, if I go with a single 10", I would have to buy the sub and build its enclosure.

 

Would there be a distinct advantage of going to a single 10" sub instead of dual 8's? (Keep in mind that I get the dual 8's for practically free.)

 

Any advice?

Edited June 4, 2007 by XPLORx4

[XPLORx4]

Oh yeah, I also bought a 2-door kit of Dynamat (4 long sheets of the stuff), and installed about 1-1/2 sheets of it on the front doors. I applied a big patch to each outer door skin from the bottom of the door to the horizontal reinforcing beam inside the door, immediately behind the speaker to about 1/2-way back, and a smaller patch to the interior door skin around the speaker. I didn't want to mess with removing the plastic moisture barrier; that black goo is nasty.

 

I still have 2 full sheets of Dynamat left. (I think they're about 3 feet long by about 12" wide.) I suppose it can help quiet the loud howl from my MTR tires. Where should I apply it?

[nissandoms47]

Loud Howl??? I'm about to pick up a new set lol.

[XPLORx4]

Loud Howl??? I'm about to pick up a new set lol.

 

Yep, they're pretty loud. They don't have the wah-wah-wah-wah-wah sound or buzzing hum you typically associate with MT tires, but they are much louder than my BFG AT's ever were. Good thing I don't drive my truck every day.

Edited June 4, 2007 by XPLORx4

[Simon]

The 8" 10" or 12" debate can be had for months. Truly, it all depends on what type of music you listen to, and at what volumes. It also depends on the type of sub. Typically, an 8" sub will give you tight, snappy bass. Great for bass drums in rock/metal. They won't give you the low rumble of a 12" sub though. Obviously, a 10" sub is somewhere in between. I run a single 12", and I find I have had to EQ my system just right to give me the right bass response, as I like to have a solid kick for bass drums in the music I listen to. I find that my 12" is a little muddy in that sense, but the rumble on lower bass notes is great.

[MichiganAve]

I disagree that larger subs are more sloppy as a general statement. Properly designed subs and boxes are the key at any size. My home 18" sub has one of the best group delay curves you will ever see and will sound tighter than most 8s you've heard.

 

That 8" may be free to you, but with dual 8s you end up taking a lot of space and with a single 8 you only have an 8ohm load. Just buy a good 10" with 4ohm load. You need that 4ohm mono load to get the 100watts out of the bridged rear channels of your amp. Get some thick MDF to build the box, and be done with it.

[nissandoms47]

Derrick, hows Cali?

[turbopath]

There is no sound deadening above the headliner or around the back of the car behind the plastic panels. I was actually thinking about getting some fiberglass and building an enclosure into the right hand side back there. There's a ton of room behind the little panel/storage thing.