MichiganAve

Price dropped to $500 plus shipping.

Sold it. Have a Ford Raptor on 37s now! Custom links and panhard rod are still available.

I reviewed old emails with Tyler. He set everything to stock lengths. No idea what the total length extension is though, sorry. The panhard can be extended without removing from the vehicle, so whether used with a drop bracket or not you have options to get things centered. I also discovered that I paid $685.56 for these in parts and Tyler did the labor and paint free. So $600 plus shipping would be a more reasonable price. Dean, I am glad to see you are still around. I remember you on these boards more than a decade ago!

Oh, and Colorado!

The links were built to stock measurements. The panhard rod is 37" from center of bolt to center of bolt at its shortest and is adjustable to longer lengths.

Yes, I am bringing this thread back from the dead. I never installed my set and my R50 is long gone. So brand new. Who wants them? $500 plus shipping (and these things are really heavy).

Tyler ran 35x12.5, however he had 2" AC coils plus 4.5" spacers and did a lot of cutting. That is a lot of lift. On mine with 2.5" spacers and 2" AC coils I had to do a lot of cutting to get 35x12.5 to fit. Also required some massaging of the struts up front. And putting in longer rear bumpstops to prevent contact when flexing. I have aftermarket bumpers front and rear so I can't tell you how much trouble stock would have been. Backspacing is of course part of the equation as mentioned above. And tire width. IE 34x10.5 probably would have fit easier than 33x12.5 Good luck.

I found a pamphlet that says the rule for Missouri is "For 1996-2000 vehicles, three or more unset monitors will result in a test failure. For 2001 and newer vehicles, two or more unset monitors will result in a test failure." When the scangauge says "not ready" that doesn't tell me how many monitors are unset right? IE I might only have one missing and therefore could get it smogged now?

More than 2 months ago I got a P0440 error code. My wife had just driven the car and filled up the gas tank the day before, and the gas cap wasn't on very tight. So I simply reset the code with my scangauge. The error code has not returned. The problem is my scangauge still reads "not ready" after two months of driving including following a generic drive cycle multiple times (as closely as possible on public roads). And I'm due for smog/registration ASAP. Any ideas? The cycle I followed is below. I remember a few years ago it took a long time before the readiness monitor was reset after fixing an O2 sensor, but this is just ridiculous. The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. 1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge. 2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge. 3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge. 4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions. 5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again. 6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions. 7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

Yes, combo of SFD and AC coils. The rear carrier was done by a local shop. The rear bumper and sliders were by Richard Z. The front was purchased from KMA, I had a poor experience with them and posted a few years back describing it.

For me ABS works fine with 33" tires. However, the stopping distance is noticeably worse between the bigger tires and added weight from bumpers skids sliders etc. Be sure to adjust the load sensing valve in the rear, search 'LSV' for instructions.

Haven't installed the links yet, they are still laying around. Car time has been taken up by some other projects lately.

Anything you can do with an R50 Pathfinder can also be done with a QX4: My newer tire carrier: Link: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/244407

That sure looks familiar!

Looking good. I like how you did the rear spacer.

Thanks Tyler, just got the links. I'm impressed by the fabrication skills you've been developing. These look great in person. So beefy! I think I'm going to order some new shocks to swap in at the same time, so I'll get around to installing in the next few weeks.

I always enjoy threads where I find pictures of my QX4 that I didn't post... What shocks are you running in the rear? I'm thinking of redoing my rear end with custom coils and getting rid of the blocks.

How do you guys like your custom coils? I've had an SFD for more than three years now and I'm getting ready to redo my rear set-up. With the weight of my custom rear bumper with 33" tire swing there is way too much bouncing around. So I probably need stronger shocks, but making one change always seems to end up with a complete overhaul... Current running in the rear: 3" blocks AC 2" lift coils bilstein 5150 shocks (#BF5-A187-H0, 11.93" travel, valving 170/60, extended 29.70, compressed 17.78) stock links stock panhard extended brake line stillen extended swaybar Thinking of changing: 5-5.5" custom coils, 160+ stiffness shocks #BF5-A187-H1 which has same dimensions but valved 255/70, or another suggestion? custom links + panhard

Sounds like you are making some nice progress. Keep us up to date!

Bottom of spindle would certainly be possible. One person played with the idea actually, but I don't think he made it work. If you are feeling adventurous, I really think coilovers would be the way to go! With the original strut spacers on top, 33x12.5 barely clears my strut with 3.75 backspacing. But it works. 35x12.5 has been done as well. You are correct that the strut spacer must be made at an angle. I seem to remember 11 degree range? I couldn't find the specs searching though. Perhaps Tyler, Keith, or Alex are willing to share what they used.

The lockright is an automatic locker like a detroit? I would of course prefer a selectable locker like the ARB, but cost and installation of an on board air compressor are limiting factors. This would sure be nice if the price is around $300! Would sending an email showing interest to the manufacturer help this actually happen?

3.75 should work but anticipate generous trimming.

They are posted directly as attachments on the message board. Anybody else having problems with the pictures? You should be able to click the attachment and have the full photo open.

Aspects of a subframe drop include: -The subframe drop is 4 blocks. You can design it several ways, but honestly its simple. You are just making a rectangular spacer between the bolts and pushing the whole subframe down. Mine are 4" height. -The engine requires 2 blocks the same height as the subframe drop blocks. These are also very simple design. Again just a spacer between bolts, rectangular with no angle. -You also need to lift at the front suspension. However there are no longer struts available, so anything longer than AC coils will lead to severe topping out. So you will need spacers here too. These are NOT straight to keep the geometry right. If you are designing your own lift then you'll need some trial and error to make the angle right. My spacers are 2.5" and the rest of the lift comes from the AC coils. Most people have used 4" spacers plus AC or OME coils to achieve 5-6" total lift. -You need to extend the steering shaft. I think most of us are using a honda U-joint with a spined shaft that matches the R50 shaft for the extension. I do not know if a straight extension would work, but I can confirm that this method does. -The rear lift is much simpler than the front. You can use straight cylindrical blocks, longer coils, or both in combination to achieve the desired lift. I have 3" blocks and AC coils. There may be coils from another vehicle that fit, or you can order custom coils. -You will want longer travel shocks in the rear -You will need new bump stops in the rear and possibly limiting straps -The stock panhard rod will be out of stock specs and force your rear axle towards the driver's side. The setup will work like this, but ideally you should make a drop bracket or a longer rod. Adjustable upper and lower control arms can be considered as well. -You'll need longer brake lines front and rear -You'll want to extend both differential breather tubes -Your rear swaybar will be out of whack. I modified a stillen swaybar with longer links that can be disconnected with a single bolt. The front will still work if you want to keep it. -The front skidplate will no longer work, you'll want a new one. -Ideally you should add lateral bracing of the blocks up front. The SFD is kind of like putting your vehicle on stilts, and actions like laterally winching could twist your subframe. A solid skidplate will help. -You'll need to adjust the routing of your front ABS line to prevent stretch -If you are going with larger than 33" tires you will need to do a lot of trimming even after this lift. Of course you'll want to re-gear as well, especially if you have 4.3's. The front blocks: The rear blocks: The engine spacer: The steering extension: The skid and driver's side front block: Installed: I owe Tyler Morgan thanks for doing all the research and providing me with a Prado prototype. You will run into hiccups with any custom project like this. Installation is a lot more involved than doing a regular suspension swap and you will need multiple jacks and stands. Air tools and an engine hoist would make it easier. However, I had very little experience and did the installation alone with only hand tools.

Looks like what's left of a jeep cherokee after a lot of cutting.