MichiganAve

More votes for Pinnacle and Courtesy. Have used them both many times.

Actually, there are several kits I've seen. I have a JWT popcharger intake (basically a K&N conical filter) that has worked well for several years and is CARB legal. The 01-04 version is currently for sale at courtesy nissan for $100 http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=PR501-1XCF6 (I have the earlier version on my 98). I'm sure I've saved money compared to regular filters with this thing, mine is still in perfect shape after 4+ years, cost me $100, and all I've had to do is buy 1 bottle of cleaning solution and filter oil this whole time. Note this is NOT water-crossing friendly, but does have a nice sound at WOT.

I've used it on several cars before- on most it can only pull OBDII stuff (ie not the CONSULT stuff from Nissan) but it is still useful to read codes, reset codes, and be able to mount a device that will correct for my 33" tires.

junk yard for used ones or better yet, buy some rock sliders.

kragen didn't have any for 33x12.5 in stock, but all their tire chains are from tirechains.com so I just ordered some heavy duty v-bars from them online for the rear. i am not getting anything for up front.

Manual says rear axle only for tire chains on my 98 QX4... why can't we run chains on all 4?

Haven't tried taking off the front. In the rear you can easily remove the links and the bar doesn't really run into anything. My setup is really easy to remove the rear link on as I'm using a stillen bar which has just a single vertical bolt to remove the entire link. I'm running on the road right now with the links off and while there is slightly more sway, its not a huge difference.

Insanium had tuning issues and I don't think that company is offering kits anymore. However, there is this for the 3.3L: http://www.alpine-developments.us/nissansc.html

I got my front bumper from KMA and had a horrible time with both the product, delays, and customer service. I think richard goes by frontier2k1 on the forum.

Sorry, already sold my OEM one. Still waiting on the tire swing to get finished by Richard. He seems pretty busy right now with work, but I guess you can PM him to see if he is taking orders. The main issue is when he made mine he had an R50 to build on, which he got rid of now. So you'd have to be in his neck of the woods for him to make it. I might be posting some updated pics of my truck soon, I've been kinda busy lately!

4" subframe drop and 4.5" strut spacers. I'm not sure anybody tried shorter blocks to see what would be needed for steering extension (nothing, straight extension, single U joint?) You can still ask Tyler if he has parts. In the end nobody came forward to buy any kits despite lots of inquiries...

I think most of us with the R50 have put the cooler in-line instead of replacing the stock cooler to prevent over-cooling.

Great to see you Marcel! Is your website back up and running? Sorry I can't provide you with a bumper, I sold my stock one when I put on my winch bumper... but somebody needs to jump on this opportunity!

It is not wise to REPLACE the stock cooler, rather to add another inline before it. The idea is that you can actually cool too much. You want to leave the stock cooler inline after your new one to act as a moderator (ie it can actually warm things up a little bit when the fluid is cool). Mine is a B&M, I think the 70255 which is rated for 16000 GVW but there is absolutely no need for one that big.

<offtopic> So far, San Fran weather by the ocean has been high in 50s with fog so thick you can't see a block. Depressing. One of the few nice things here besides the food is that my new neighbor has a lifted Grand Cherokee. Utah was pretty cool to drive through by the way. </offtopic>

I disagree that larger subs are more sloppy as a general statement. Properly designed subs and boxes are the key at any size. My home 18" sub has one of the best group delay curves you will ever see and will sound tighter than most 8s you've heard. That 8" may be free to you, but with dual 8s you end up taking a lot of space and with a single 8 you only have an 8ohm load. Just buy a good 10" with 4ohm load. You need that 4ohm mono load to get the 100watts out of the bridged rear channels of your amp. Get some thick MDF to build the box, and be done with it.

I shall be "visiting" California for a minimum of 3 years and working for state run hospitals at a state run university with a paycheck from the state. So I think I'm stuck getting my license and registration in California.

Don't scare me, I'm starting the cross-country drive to the People's Republic of California tomorrow... Not looking forward to the smog test.

Why can't you get a trailer with the Penske? Their online system let me order the 16' truck with car carrier, even specify the location and time for pick-up. I almost ordered the uhaul first but they wouldn't guarantee availability first thing in the morning or let me specify a time at all online. That's actually how I got to investigating the Penske and found out it was cheaper.

Well the quote for the 22' truck would cost $500 more than the 16'. And I don't really need that much more space as I only have a 1 bedroom. I was tempted as it was diesel and that should cost less gas, but not $500 worth! Plus smaller I assume is a lil easier to drive. I will have my 30" tires on the truck for the move. It appears that Penske doesn't require the vehicle to be there when you get the car carrier. I am getting the Penske car carrier with their truck obviously. Here it is http://www.pensketruckrental.com/personal_...ar_carrier.html It actually had a 155lb higher weight rating than the Uhaul. My car's stock weight is 4275 and this thing rated at 4055... I am not going to fill it with gas or any packing and I am taking off the spare tire (although the bumpers and sliders and stereo obviously add a few hundred). I checked the dimensions and the length and width are both fine per their specs. I'll get it on with their straps and drive to the nearest Menards and buy whatever straps it looks like I need to tie down through my front and rear Drings. I actually don't know anything about what straps or chains I should use- suggestions? Thanks for the offers guys, but I am very happy with my quote after the online and AAA discounts. $1500 for truck and carrier including taxes, unlimited miles, and some packing supplies from Chicago to San Francisco.

Lol, we need to try to simplify huh? Let me just make some flat-out product recommendations then: 1. Run your current rear speakers off your deck. Keep the deck and amp. Sell your front speakers. 2. Get a sub for more bass. A JL W1 will work great off that bridged power. $115. If the stealthbox is too expensive build your own or try local shops for some quotes. 3. Get new components up front to replace the coaxials. I mentioned the focal 165 A1s because for their price ($165) and power requirements they are great speakers. If you want to choose something else, look at the suggestions I wrote earlier (add boston to that list too). 4. Get an EQ to tailor the system to your taste. Like the Audio Control EQL ($170).

I went with a Penske 16' truck and their car carrier. Cost was $400 cheaper than uhaul after the 10% online discount and 12% AAA discount. Same car carrier weight issue. Penske limits tire size, which I am way over. I think its cause that's the size of their tire tie-down. http://www.pensketruckrental.com/personal_...ar_carrier.html

If you want to run high end speakers, you can by bridging that amp to 2 channels. There is no point in powering your rear speakers off that amp instead of the headunit in my opinion. So I'd either power a sub, or bridge to the fronts. Bazooka is junk... The stealthbox looks good, is small, would work off your amp's power. If you want to go cheaper then build something small yourself. I can tell you that the MBQuart Q series won't do well off 40 watts. With only 40 watts you are probably looking at entry-line, like a Focal 165 A1. Not sure if MBQuart or Polk offer something in that power range. You can also check the other big manufacturers like Alpine, JL Audio, Rockford, Pioneer, etc. The best way to judge this is looking at the nominal power rating and the sensitivity. Something with a continuous power rating of 40-60 should work. Higher sensitivities will make better use of that power, so avoid getting something with 60-70 watts power rating unless it has a sensitivity >90. If you want to make sure it doesn't sound "bright" then look for a silk dome tweeter instead of metal, or just get an equalizer.

Do you know what comes with that uhaul unit for tie downs and what I should get myself? I'd like to go through the pairs of Drings on both my front and rear bumpers in addition to the regular tire tie downs.

JL audio is overpriced, and any authorized dealer will charge closer to MSRP than online dealers. If you want to save money, build your own. You can fit tweeters behind those grilles. I stuck my aftermarket tweeters to the A pillar without their own grille, fit just fine behind the OEM one. Did you disconnect those stock tweeters that were in parallel yet?