mora2818

Hi all, I am no longer a R50 owner and I have a needle bearing that should find a home before I throw it away. Looks like the part # is 40588-88G00. It is just 1 needle bearing that I thought was causing my front left wheel to squeal. Its free to anyone + plus shipping via paypal. Email me at kevinpatrickmoran@gmail.com if you want it. Thanks for everyone's help over the years, -Kevin

Does anyone have a picture of solenoid connected to wiring handy? I just had one rebuilt and the power wire doesn't want to line up to the post. It seems as if they may have installed the solenoid backwards. Either that or I am having the worst time getting the wire to flex enough to mount properly. Thanks, Kevin

A big ass amp

Ya, I can see that. I am personally not into upgrading too much, more of just understanding everything about the vehicles I own. This has definitely been the best value vehicle I have ever bought (R50). I am going to buy a new used SUV this Spring and wanted to find out what folks think of the R51. I am also looking at the standard "cute yutes" of highlander, 4runner, sequoia, and pilot. To me Nissan seems to be the best value out there. I am appalled at home much folks will pay for a used 4runner with 90k miles on it. With any luck, I'll be posting on this forum regularly in the next couple months. Cheers, Kevin

Why are there so few threads started in the 2005+ forum? I am looking to upgrade my R50 and was shocked to see very little talk on the boards about upgrades, likes, dislikes, projects, FAQ's, etc. -Kevin

It was doing nothing at all, like the unit wasn't receiving power. Since tapping on it, I have started and stopped about 6 different times with no issues. -Kevin

So when my starter is failing like this and all it takes is a couple taps on the solenoid or starter to get it going, what part do I need to replace? Just the solenoid or the whole unit? -Kevin

Vandalization where I come from doesn't happen too often. You can pretty much leave your doors unlocked to your car and house and chances are nothing will happen. Plus it was in front of a business so I don't think anyone would have thought anything of it.

Many thanks to all!!!! It worked. Drove to where the pfinder wouldn't start this morning, tried again and nothing. Crawled underneath and found the starter and solenoid. Banged on it a couple times with a hammer, then tried to start it and wouldn't you know it, it fired right up. I really appreciate the help. This saved me a huge towing bill, a mechanics bill, and about 4-6 hours of additional commuting time as I would have had to driven back home and possible driven up to the mountain town a couple times just to get it repaired. We made it home fine and now I can simply just replace the starter this upcoming weekend. It is a good day thanks to NPORA!!!! -Kevin

And the location of this starter?

Hi all, I am up in a mountain town and I think my starter just died. I have read and been told that sometimes you can bang on the starter and it will do something then work just fine. Where is the starter located on a 97 automatic? And any truth to the bang on the starter fix? I am really hoping to avoid a tow and mechanics bill. -Kevin

I have the Yakima Load Warrior. I am thoroughly impressed with the durability and load. I have stuck a ton of crap up there with the net keeping it all safe. The thing I would warn about is the factory cross bars if you plan on using them. I snapped one in half driving around logging roads in Idaho looking for a place to camp. I would run Yakima or Thule bars if you plan on putting some serious weight up top. -Kevin

For lowers, I went to NAPA which carried a couple different brands, but one brand was around $20 per joint. No issues so far but I don't have many miles on them. Other places wanted around $90 including Nissan OEM. I have a 97 with high miles so as long as it works, that is good enough for me. -Kevin

I have a similar problem that has been a nightmare to fix. I replaced rotors, pads, calipers and had the brakes bled. The bearings have only about 30,000 miles on them. My last bet is the needle bearing inside the knuckle that I am unable to remove because it must require some tool that nobody has but Nissan. So know I live with this awful squeal until we get a new rig. Good luck and let me know if you ever fix this issue.

I pulled one off a wrecked rig and for a week or so I was good without a CEL light. I haven't pulled the code so i am not sure if I still have some EVAP issues or not. I think my pathfinder is dying a slow death. Cracked windshield with a run 2 feet long...check. CEL light on and I don't really care...check. Terrible squeaky wheel/hub/bearing from something I can't figure out...check. But it still drives just fine. -Kevin

anyone?

So in my quest to replace the needle bearing in the knuckle I tried to figure out how to remove the ABS front sensor that is attached to the knuckle. There is a bolt on the back side that I removed but that sensor seems pretty well lodged in there. I didn't want to risk damaging the sensor trying to pry it out. How the heck does that thing come out? -Kevin

I have the same problem with trying to figure out how to pull this bearing out. Anyone else accomplish this? -Kevin

Just so I am clear, when you say center bearing, you are referring to the needle bearing in the service manual? Thanks, Kevin

It is definitely from the front and not the rear. That I am positive about. I have driven next to my wife in my car and can easily distinguish it is from the front. It typically only happens about from stop to 35mph and anything over that, the noise vanishes or the wind noise is greater than that of the squeal. I'll take a look at the center bearing to see if that is the cause. Thanks for the idea. -Kevin

To avoid paying the $200 in parts for the canister and valve, I sourced a canister and valve from my local salvage yard for $15. I followed the instructions and installed the used EVAP canister and after a day of driving, no CEL code. My sourced junker was a 99 to be used on my 97 for reference. Thanks for the great write-up. -Kevin

I posted this same question at the end of a thread on replacing the EVAP system but it seems there aren't many views: I have a quick question, in researching the fact that I have granules in my EVAP lines and I need to replace the canister, I haven't found why I need to replace the EVAP canister vent control valve. Can someone tell me why this is also necessary to replace? Thanks, Kevin

Hi all, I am at a loss on what my latest problem is. I have a issue that manifests itself only after 10+ minutes of driving. What happens is it sounds as if the caliper is stuck ever so slightly and pushing the pad against the rotor thus a squealing brake. My 97 XE has 153k miles on it so I figured it was just the caliper stuck since they are the original calipers. What I can't figure out is why after replacing the rotors, pads, and caliper the squeal still persists. The wheel bearings were also greased. It seems like something in the wheel assembly is heating up and rubbing against something. Any ideas on what that might be or other ways to identify the issue? Thanks, Kevin

I have a quick question, in researching the fact that I have granules in my EVAP lines and I need to replace the canister, I haven't found why I need to replace the EVAP canister vent control valve. Can someone tell me why this is also necessary to replace? Thanks, Kevin

Maybe I'll pay more attention to that. Never even thought it could be an issue.