mora2818

Sounds like this is getting a little too complicated. If you go back to what you are wanting, Bass and soften your current setup while not spending much money and not sacrificing space, I am not sure getting high end components is the best way to go. Talking about sensitivity and nominal power probably just confuses Dean guessing by his question in the first place. Now I am making that assumption so if wrong take no offense. With that said I would try and figure out for a way to "replicate" a JL Stealthbox. Because you don't want to kick down that money, go to all the local shops and see what they would ask for something similar of for some fiberglass box to be done. You could also see about having some 8's setup in the doors too. There may also be some locals that can do that for you. From what I hear and have seen, Fiberglassing is actually quite easy if you have the materials. There are plenty of good $100 subs out there that will give you a great sound; JL, Image Dynamics, BA, the list goes on. For solving the "brightness" problem I see it 2 ways. Either buy a better set of components or get an Equalizer. Both would probably cost about the same. Better components get you a better sound and smooth out the brightness, but you'll need match up a pair with your amp that will work good together (reference to power sensitivity). The other way is to get a equalizer to control and tune the sound to your liking. These things do wonders and can be had on Ebay for $100 for a great one. They can make ok systems sound great. A quick note, rear speakers are otherwise useless hence why everyone keeps telling you to run them off the deck. Many people in competition settings don't run them at all or use some means as to quite them down a lot. You don't want any sound coming from the rear forward. Your stage should be in front of you. The bad news is you are in essence trying to kill 2 birds with 1 stone but physics don't allow it. You have to move air in large volumes to create Bass. There is no real trick around this. The tricks are using air projected off the movement of the speaker to increase that volume. In other words a tuned box, but that requires additional space. So anyway you slice it, you want Bass, you need a sub.

Easy cheap and not much space could be strap a bazooka tube somewhere. I don't know if they still make those and I have never heard one but I know they were slightly better than some of the garbage out there.

Just an ID10 in a trunk is the problem. Should have done at least a 12 but this was my first vehicle with a trunk and didn't account for how much sound db's would be lost getting through the seats. As far Image Dynamics, ya I love the sound. I have a Alpine Type-R in the Pathy and I think the sound is ok. Definetly loud but only Ok sounding. The ID 10 musically sounds much, much better but just can't push enough air. I was only showing my design as an example of what you could do with a Shallow 10 or 12 if you got creative. But if JL already makes a stealth box and you can afford it, you won't be disapointed. They are overpriced in my opinion but top notch stuff. In fact in a perfect world where I had a ton of money, I would either choose Image Dynamics or JL for a sub/s everytime.

If you need more power you could sell your Alpine on Ebay and pick up an Xtant off Ebay too. The alpine should get you some decent money. I have bought 2 Xtants (403a and 3300x) off Ebay for $100 each and they will pretty much do everything you need with regards to crossovers, equilization, staging. They are kind of a hidden gem and the best part is 1 can run your whole system. If Mich is going to be down there, he can help you set you up with that. They are the easiest amps to configure. I still think you could do a cargo area with 1 of those shallow subs with a raised floor. I agree they won't sound as nice as a "normal" sub but I totally understand the space concern and went with an option that wasn't to my full liking on my subaru as far a sub setup. The good is I lost about 1.5 inches of the trunk. The bad is it doesn't sound great. My pathfinder however has the setup I want but at the expense of a big ported box. Here is some pics of my sub setup in my subaru: Fiberglass Box Raised Floor

Depends but yes. My Subaru sub is in a trunk under the flooring and I have had tons of stuff back there including camping gear. Was it as pronounced? no but it definetly hit and there was plenty of bass. But if there is a concern find a space that you would have room and would be unobstructed. Those shallow subs could probably fit underneath a seat much like you were going to do with a JVC powered sub. I can't remember how much space is underneath them but I am just guessing you could.

What is under your rear carpet in that little cargo area? You could fab up small box with the new pioneer shallow subs to get you some low end. Pioneer Shallow Subs For my WRX I actually had a custom fiberglass box made to fit into the spare tire wheel well. I lost all of about 1 inch of usable cargo area. You wouldn't even know it was there so if you go creative and had a little money to spend you could definetly get a sub without losing space. I also have some CDT components that actually play fairly low but I have an Audiocontrol EQX to help. I think I like my CDT's the best so far from Infinity's, Alpines, and MB Quarts (currently in my Pathfinder). I think if you spent some time and money and figured out what you really want could help. In my opinion the self powered subs are marginal at best, but are easy to install and don't cost too much money or time. A little time and money you could get your rig to sound amazing. Those pioneers need about .35 cubed feet of space for a sealed enclosure and sound quite nice. My friend installed 2 12's in his F-350 behind the seat.

Wow no kidding. THat is impressive. Probably just scratching the surface of what you could get out of the VG. If I had something newer I would probably spring... Cool deal.

Any chance there are so more charts like baseline or references to if this was corrected for drivetrain loss. If that is WHP/TQ those numbers are insane so I am guessing it was adjusted???

Nevermind, read the wrong section. Found out how to do it. I would have never guessed that hole on the outside was a slot for the spare tire pole/wrench.

I do, the instructions are for the external spare tire carrier.

My spare tire is underneath my cargo area and for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove it. It looks like there is a spring attached to a block that holds it up. But How the heck do you lower and raise it. I can't seem to turn it either way to lower or raise it. And a chain is hanging down too. Thanks for the help. And I know this should be very easy.

Hi-Jack away. I went down and bought a plug and play T-One adapter so I don't have to mess with this anymore.

I love ghetto stealth creations. Luckily I live in a place with very low crime so it isn't a big concern of mine. In High School my buddy glued cardboard to the sides of the box with the woofers firing at the rear seat. Nobody guessed there were 2 12's hidden in there.

I would. You can reference Wiring Guide for various ways. You'll probably have to turn down the gain for the set of channels as you are driving your amp below the recommended load. You could also bridge that set of channels and run a series/parallel wiring scheme however your setup would be mono rather than stereo but it would give you the right load. What kind of Sub do you have and what is the impedence on it? That too can make a difference on your setup.

What type of a T-Connector did you get?

You should be able to run all your speakers and sub off that 1 amp. Bridge a pair of channels for the sub and wire the other speakers off the other set of channels. Depending on what speakers you are using you would want to wire in parallel or series. Your current draw shouldn't be too much for your speakers to overload the amp but then again it is a Sony. I assume it is this guy: Sony Amp Looks like it is 2ohm stable so what is the impedence of all your speakers?

Borrowed from NismoSkyZ's reference to the amp install question. That is strip I am talking about and the wire is under it.

I'll try and get one tomorrow. That carpet you see is the rear carge area carpet. The bottom black strip is the weather stripping where the rear hatch meets. Below that where the black with the white residue shows is actually the rear bumper itself. And the wire is under that long skinny panel that you first see in the rear area. It has like 6 to 8 screws holding it down.

I bought a trailer and now must get the wiring done to go along with my hitch. The wiring harness adapters seem to run about $40 or so however the universal 4 wire ones are only about $5. Is it possible to use these $5 4 wire kits or must I purchase one of these adapters? Anyone know what this wire is for? It is under the rear hatch plastic cover piece. It looks like the gromet drops in underneath the rig by the bumper. Thanks, Kevin

You can pull out the plastic bin under that rear carpet to get you more space. I had to in order to get my amp in: Amp My amp is huge, what the heck are you putting back there anyway?

My guess would be 30X9.5QR15 but I'll let others verify.

Wow, that is pretty decent power improvement for an air filter on the VQ's. Is it that drastic on the VG's?

What exactly is a "Full Tune-up"? I hear that term a lot and thought it just meant plugs, wires, fluids, filters. Kevin

So I just hit the 120,000 mileage mark but the service manual doesn't go that far. I am wondering what if anything I need to do. I bought the rig with 110k and all the only thing I am aware of before that was done was the timing belt. So far in my possesion I have changed the PCV valve, Air Filter, Oil Filter, Plugs, and Coolant Temp Sensor. Keep in mind that I have a fairly annoying oil leak from the PCV system being plugged that has caused my RMS and FS to leak. Tax return should be here next week and this thing is going in the shop to get those fixed. So while under there it may be worthwhile to change some other parts. Thanks Kevin

Wowski! Glad to hear you made it home.