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Gas Mileage is terrible!


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I'm been getting like 10MPG and it's starting to piss me off. I replaced the O2 sensors after the cat, air filter, plugs, wires, oil change; and my mileage hasn't gotten any better. I used Bosch O2 sensors and I have mxed feelings about them. Dealer OEM sensors are ~$195 each but I don't want to drop that kind of money on 4 sensors if it's not going to make a difference.

 

What should I try to get my mileage up? I don't drive with a heavy foot. I skip shift a lot of the time. I plan on getting Warn hubs soon to free up some rotating mass on the front end, hopefully get some mileage back that way. What else can I do?

Edited by SantaCruz163
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Your signature says you are running 31" tires, but what gears are in your axles? You should have the 4.636, if you have the 4.363, that will hurt MPG.

 

Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor for the ECU?

 

Condition of Spark plugs?

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i have 32s with 4.3s and get 15 city and 17-18 hwy. check for intake/exhaust leaks. If you have an exhaust leak before the rear 02 sensor and after the front 02 sensor then it will think its running lean by the extra oxygen being fed into the system, hence more fuel to try to level it out. and any intake leaks after the MAF sensor. and some vacuum leaks etc can do that.

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i have 32s with 4.3s and get 15 city and 17-18 hwy. check for intake/exhaust leaks. If you have an exhaust leak before the rear 02 sensor and after the front 02 sensor then it will think its running lean by the extra oxygen being fed into the system, hence more fuel to try to level it out. and any intake leaks after the MAF sensor. and some vacuum leaks etc can do that.

I do actually have a small exhaust leak, right at the O2 bung on the driver side after cat sensor. When replacing them, the old sensor would not come out nice so it basically destroyed the threads. I ened up welding on a nut to replace the bung and I must of missed a small area.

 

I didn't realize that would kill my mileage that badly.

 

My gears are what ever stock gears are in a SE model. With highway driving bigger tires with stock gearing should give you better mileage.

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With highway driving bigger tires with stock gearing should give you better mileage.

Negligible. The extra weight of the tires, even at highway speeds usually eats that up. NOt to mention, the extra friction from typically wider tires as well. When I upsized, I was happy to simply not LOSE highway mileage.

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I seriously doubt having 31" A/Ts is going to kill my mileage this dramatically.

 

I'll have to reweld the O2 bung to fix that leak and maybe just bite the bullet and replace the O2s with OEM ones...

 

Is there a dealership or an online store that sells OEM parts at a whole sale price and not at a typical stealership mark-up price?

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i have 32s with 4.3s and get 15 city and 17-18 hwy. check for intake/exhaust leaks. If you have an exhaust leak before the rear 02 sensor and after the front 02 sensor then it will think its running lean by the extra oxygen being fed into the system, hence more fuel to try to level it out. and any intake leaks after the MAF sensor. and some vacuum leaks etc can do that.

I get the same mileage with 31s. I just installed the Warn hubs, but haven't gone through a full tank yet to find out if it helped. It sure coasts better with the Warns and seems to be a little quieter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have about 124K miles on mine, along with a significant passenger side exhaust manifold crack/leak. I get about 14.3 mpg in the city. I noticed a significant improvement when I removed my roof rack, and an insignificant improvement when I removed my spare tire and swing gate off the rear. I'm hoping to see an improvement once I finally get the dough to replace that exhaust manifold leak.

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2001 XE , 157 000 km, 18 lit/100 (13 MPG), mostly city driving though

- changed air filter

- put Lucas inj. cleaner several times

- did inj. cleaning service

- regular oil change (every 3 months)

 

---> and still no way to bring the consumption down.

 

What else to do?

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Try to shift at 3000 rpm. Keep your RPM's between the 2k to 3k range, except when in fifth going over 55.

 

 

Also, just do some maintenance like changing the plugs and wires, cap and rotor, air filter, fuel filter, make sure there is adequate air in the tires, change the oil if its over, use some injector cleaner...the list goes on and on.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Denso makes the better OE style O2 sensors. They can be hard to find in some areas though. Never had much luck with the Bosch on Japanese vehicles. They consolidate too many numbers. NTK s also another decent OE type sensor. This is the same company as NGK plugs.

Denso #'s: Frt Left: 234-3097

Frt Rght: 234-3087

Rr Left: 234-4703

Rr Rght: 234-4704

 

NTK #'s: Frt Left: 24526

Frt Rght: 24521

Rr Left: 24543

Rr rght:24544

 

The Denso's usually run about $65-75 US.

 

Make sure you clean the MAF with proper cleaner. CRC products makes one.

Edited by bryfry
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My mechanic says another possible culprit could be the fan clutch -- if it doesn't disengage, it will keep engine needlessly working hard. Quote was $200 to replace; might be worth it in gas.

 

Best,

GT

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Excellent point, qtrotta. There will be a distinct roar coming from your engine when those clutches are seized. Something to check out. With the engine shut off the fan clutch should spin somewhat free. If it is super hard to move, it probably is no good.

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i had the same prob as you and i got mine up to 16.5(highway) 15(city). I had a leak that i got fixed and it made a huge difference, also ive got the K&N FIPK and that has helped as long as its clean. Like the others said check the plugs, wires, filters(air, fuel), TIRE PRESSURE, etc... Ive also got warn hubs and i noticed a little difference in MPG but the biggest difference was that it coasted a lot better and the other benefits of having them. Check out drivewire.com for the O2 sensors.

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Well, I buttoned the front end back up and took a look at my MAF sensor. Man, that thing was dirty. No telling when it was cleaned last (or if it's ever been cleaned). I filled up yesterday and have started clocking mileage. I will keep you guys updated.

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I bought Denso O2 sensors, a Hastings PCV valve but haven't put them in it. I'll check my MAF and clean it out as needed when I put the new equipment in. Driver's side O2 looks like it's a going to be a real bitch. Passanger side not so bad. Any one have tips to make getting them out easier? I still need to weld the exhaust leak on the rear O2 bung.

 

I did plugs, wires, air filter & fuel filter all within the last 4 months so I know those are alright.

 

I really need new suspension too. I'm rolling on the factory stuff and it has about 150k miles. I was thinking about going with a cheaper AC 2" setup.

 

Then, an alignment job & plastic airsoft BBs in the tires for a true balance.

 

Finally, Warn manual hubs.

 

 

 

Sidenote: Is it easy to take off the 'nose' of a R50? Having it off would make make doing timing belt, serpentine belts a breeze.

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Sidenote: Is it easy to take off the 'nose' of a R50? Having it off would make make doing timing belt, serpentine belts a breeze.

 

It is easy. For me it was easy-ish, but that's because I am almost useless as a wrench-turner. The hardest part was the nylon (hard white plastic) alignment/retainer clips on either side of the bumper, which was also the only thing the Haynes manual forgot to mention. They were pictured in the service manual, though I didn't think to check it until the job was already done. D'oh!

Edited by AssBeard
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