SantaCruz163

Just be careful when pulling the filter off the rubber line. I cracked my hard line from being a little rough.

I see on a daily basis at least 10 Pathfinders on the road and more than half are either WD21 or R50. I think that says something right there... Of course, if you properly maintain any vehicle is should stay reliable (unless it's a european car). My current Pathfinder is my 3rd Nissan, 1st being a 95 Maxima SE 5spd, 2nd being a 93 Hardbody 4x4 5spd, and now my pathfinder. All 3 vehicles have never given me any problems [knock on wood] so I would consider a Pathfinder pretty reliable.

+2 on the second kind of compressor; that is the kind I used on my lift. I ran into a couple snags on doing the front part of the lift. The lower bolt on the passenger strut was seized in the knuckle so what we had to do was remove the whole unit off the truck and blast off the head with oxy torch then had to drill out the shank; like I said, a royal PITA. The second issue I had, which isn't that big of a deal, was the sway bar end links had to be cut in half because the nut wouldn't come off. I still need to cut the old ones off the sway bar and install new ones. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. I would also highly recommend replacing lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and strut bearing while you already have everything apart. Then get camber alignment bolts and get a front end alignment. Good luck.

Nevermind, I fixed the issue. The linkage came off so I reattached it by removing the plastic cowl over.

On my way home tonight from class my wiper arms got stuck in the up position so I waited until I got home to see what was up. When I got home I was able to move the arms freely up and down. The motor still works because I can hear it going but it's like the arms came off linkage or whatever. Has anyone had this happen to them? Is there way to access to wiper arm linkage under the front cowl to visually see what broke or came undone?

I don't think it's fuel pump related. When I turn the key 'on' I can hear the pump buzzing so it is priming the system and it will fire up. Like I already mentioned, the truck runs great with 0 problems [knock on wood]; no rough idle, spuddering, etc. and it pulls strong through the RPMs. It has been pretty cold lately so that could cause it to take a little longer to start. I'll keep on eye on things but hopefully I'm just paranoid.

cap & rotor possibly?

About 1 year ago. Haven't driven it much; <10,000 miles.

I noticed recently that when I go to truck my pathfinder it takes longer cranks to get started then usually. There is plenty of juice to turn the engine over, but it just takes more cranks from the starter. Once it gets started it runs great, with 0 problems [knock on wood]. Anyone experience this? Am I just being paranoid?

That one on ebay worked fine on mine?

Replace: O2 sensors with good ones (Denso) Plugs & wires (use the supplied kit under the rear seat makes it very easy, even #6) PCV valve Air filter Fuel filter Coolant temp sensor Clean the MAF sensor Seafoam the the intake, fuel, crankcase I bought my O2 sensors & PCV valve online because they were a lot cheaper than in the store. www.autopartswarehouse.com

Dude, you wasted $145 at the dealer. All you needed was a O2 sensor socket. I bought mine on eBay for something like $15 shipped and worked like a charm. Live and Learn, I guess. Now, I need to replace the coolant temp sensor. http://cgi.ebay.com/O2-OXYGEN-VACUUM-SENSO...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm kind of in the same boat. But I did: plugs, wires, fuel/air filter, all 4 O2 sensors, PCV valve, and seafoam, and still get ~230 to a tank which equals ~12MPG but with the 31s I am running I don't know what the actual mileage is. I'm guessing ~13MPG. I guess the next things I can try is cleaning the MAF sensor and replacing the coolant sensor. Where is it located? I'm guessing on the lower part of the radiator?

When I changed my plugs back in February I used AC Delcos and haven't had a problem with them yet. I thought #6 was actually pretty easy to change. The ones that are a hassle are the ones under the intake manifold; it was impossible to start the threads of the new plugs but then I used old fuel line to turn the plugs and worked like a charm.

I'd be interested if the price is right.

Nicey nice!

http://www.rockauto.com/ This is where I buy a lot of my OEM parts. Best prices I've ever come across.

I assume everything is grounded properly considering the wiring is still in the stock wire lume. I changed out the relay with the an identical one and still nothing. And no, I didn't have the high beams on; just the headlights. I guess tomorrow I pull out the ohms meter and see and I can figure it out. Hopefully it is something stupid...

When I bought my Pathy it didn't have the factory fog lights present but I'm 99% sure it came with them from the factory because it's a SE model, it has the fog light switch on the headlight switch, there is a fog light relay in the panel under the hood and the wiring harness is present where the fog lights go. Fast forward to last week, I bought a set of OEM and hooked them up, but they would not turn on. Is there something stupid I am missing or shouldn't they just plug in and work? Yes, i had the headlights on when I tried to turn them on.

How can I have the shop integrate sliders into the rockers? Sliders are usually secured to the frame or am I missing something...

So you guys would let the rot stay and cover them with some rock sliders? Link for some sliders?

The rocker panels on my Pathfinder are rotted to hell and I was looking to have them replaced so I found a shop that is willing to tackle the job. They said no one makes these panels for the 96 Pathfinder, which it true after doing some investigation on my own, so that means they would have to fab-up new ones. They want $800 to do the job. I just don't know if it's worth it or not. On the down side, it's a 96, 12 years old with ~145k miles and starting to show her age (case in point the rockers). On the plus side, I keep up with all the maintenance, just bought a 2" lift so I am planning to hang on to it for a while since It's been good to me as a D.D. (knock on wood). I have the money to get the work done, but it's just a lot to spend... Opinions would be appreciated.

I received my lift today and was wondering who bought camber adjustment bolts to install with the lift or who left the stock ones in? I'm planning on installing everything this weekend and chances are I will not have chamber bolts by then so I was wondering if it is a big deal to run with or without them.

I'd just go ahead and replace the outer tie rods, they are cheap enough and it's an easy job to replace them. How is your suspension? Stiff of sloppy? The best way I have found to balance tires is to use dyna-beads and then get another alignment after all that.

I don't want to steal this thread but I'm going to order coils and was wondering if the $70 difference between the A/C 2" lift coils and the OME heavy duty coils was worth it. Input?