SantaCruz163

Could be. Check the fuse panel.

Nice, I tried looking for one on torrentz but never had luck. Thanks.

Any idea what parts store would carry BG Products?

Thanks for the info. Is there a code on my door jam I should look for to see if I have a limited slip diff?

I'm going to change the fluid in my tranny (manual) and front/rear diffs. Only problem is, I don't know what I should be using. My Trans Am used Dextron III ATF in the T56 (6spd) and I'm not sure if there is a certain fluid I should be using. Diifs.... I don't have the slightest idea. Thanks. At 150k miles, is it worth switching to Mobil 1 synthetic oil, or should I continue with regular dino oil?

Once I get the money from selling my hardbody, on Friday, I'll be ordering an AC lift as well. I don't do a lot of off roading but my suspension is shot and I want a more aggresive look and some added space for my current 31"s for when I do go. I was probably going to go with the Rancho 5000 shocks/struts combo. Anyone have input on that combo?

Leave it to 'the man' to try and screw the working average joe. But little does he know there are mechanical inclined people that do work themselves.

The factory says don't clean them..... So what do they expect owners to do to clean them to obtain better fuel economy and a healthier running engine?

I just changed my plugs and wires tonight. It wasn't bad at all. I did the entire job in about an hour. It definitely helped with misfires. Now, I want to clean my fuel injectors. I see a lot of products that claim to clean fuel injectors. Other than buying new ones, what is the best way to clean fuel injectors? Is there a product that actually does what it says it will?

On my last fill up I averaged 11 mpg. I need to fix a small exhaust leak, do need plugs/wires and front O2 sensors and I'll see when I stand after that. It doesn't really bother me yet but I still would like to get better mileage so the VG is running healthier.

Well, I went ahead and ordered Gatorback belts for the altenator and power steering. Have to wait until my Pathy gets out of the shop to put them on.

Rubber line is what it should be then. -bounce-

Well I did some investigating and found out where it is leaking. There is a pin-size hole on the bottom on the fuel line where the fuel line runs thru that first clamp (where it's all wet in the pic, duh). So what I was thinking about doing is: 1. is there a fuel resistant compound i can use. But kind of a ghetto fix. 2. cut the fuel line past the hole and just run rubber fuel line from the filter to the hardline. 3. do a compression fitting. but that would require removing the entire length of fuel line, probably. I am leaning more towards number 2. Considering there is already rubber-to-hard line. There would just be a longer length of it, which I don't see being a problem.

I was changing my fuel fitler and I must have pulled too hard to get the filter off and I cracked the hard line where it bends into that clamp that holds the brake, fuel and return lines to the body. How should I go about fixing this? My buddy was saying a compression fitting? Heres a pic:

Before posting this subject I tried searching and couldn't find anything I was really looking for so here it goes. My serpentine belt has been squealing a a b*tch lately and I want to change it. I went to Pep Boys and was going to get a belt and tensioner the same time I bought my plugs/wire (got AC Delco plugs and B&W wires) but I held off on the belt because they did not have a tensioner to go with it. The question(s) I have is 1) is there a need to buy a tensioner from the stealership when I go ahead and change my belt. 2) what is the best belt to go with. 3) other than the belt & tensioner (if need be) what else should I change? I plan on cleaning all the pulleys with brake clean before the new belt, as well.

I'm going to change my plugs & wires tonight and was wondering what are the best plugs to go with? The Number 6 cylinder looks like it is going to be a true PITA, any tips on getting this one out? For wires; I'm just going to get the OEMs. I might go ahead and change my belt and tensioner as well, the squeal is starting to really drive me nuts. Which belt should I go with?

Those all seem to be logical answers. Don't know how I didn't think of that. -alcohol-

My passanger seat is very firm, it's as if no one has ever sat in it. I was just wondering if there is anything I can do to loosen it up to make it more comfortable for my shotgun passanger?

I'm game.

I didn't land the rocker on a stump or anything. It is just starting to rot and I want to get it replaced before it gets really out of control. Rock sliders would be to protect the new rockers

Hey whats up, I'm a new member here, although I've been on A/Cs forum for a while. I have a 93 Hardbody and a 96 Pathfinder, both 5spd 4x4. The only problem I have with the pathfinder right now is I need the passanger rocker panel replaced and the tach acts up. I have 150k miles on it right and still runs great *knocks on wood* The pathfinder has 31" BFG A/Ts and I plan on getting the 2" A/C lift and skid plates in the future. What is a good set of rock sliders to get to protect the rockers?

Well I just tried searching for 'Tachometer' and only came up with 5 results since the begining. Yea, I'll intoduce myself in that new members area. Thanks for the link.

Well I'm new to this forum. Mind giving me a link to a thread I would start with?

Ever since I bought my Pathfinder the tachometer has been acting weird. For example; when I start the engine the tach will read low then eventually drop down to 0, yet the engine is still running perfect. When I rev the engine, the tach will rev as well, then eventually it'll drop down to 0 again. Has anyone experienced something along these lines? All the other gauges work fine, and although it's not a huge problem I would like to have all working gauges. I can probably upload a video to show exactly what I am talking about.