AssBeard

It is easy. For me it was easy-ish, but that's because I am almost useless as a wrench-turner. The hardest part was the nylon (hard white plastic) alignment/retainer clips on either side of the bumper, which was also the only thing the Haynes manual forgot to mention. They were pictured in the service manual, though I didn't think to check it until the job was already done. D'oh!

Well, I buttoned the front end back up and took a look at my MAF sensor. Man, that thing was dirty. No telling when it was cleaned last (or if it's ever been cleaned). I filled up yesterday and have started clocking mileage. I will keep you guys updated.

I use Mobil1 Synthetic 5w-30 every 3000-6000 miles or so.

OKC Metro here!

I am going to try the MAF sensor cleaning this weekend. I will let you all know if it helps as soon as I button up the front and start driving it again (I am currently doing a bumper trim swap).

I know this is a relatively old thread, but I too am now looking aggressively for new wheels for my 97 SE. Here are the ones I'm looking at currently: U.S. Wheel 94 Series The quick specs: 15x7 6x5.5in bolt pattern +12mm offset 4.5in backspacing 4.28in center bore diameter By reading this thread I can see that (in theory) these bad boys will fit. I'm all set to buy them but I want your expert opinions on them. FYI, I'm not planning on putting huge tires on them....some stock size/profile tires will do as it's just my wife's DD. I have some specific questions: -What size lug nuts do I need? I could go home and measure, but I want to order them ASAP since the tires she's on now are almost bald -How far will they stick out (given the +12mm offset)? -Will I need hubcentric adapters? -Will the (much) heavier weight be an issue when braking (stopping distance) or gas mileage is concerned? Thanks in advance for the help, guys. One year later and I'm still a truck/SUV/4WD NOOB!!!!!!!!

Shoot, I think you're right. For some reason I've always thought they were 16's but since it's my old lady's car I've never paid too much attention. My bad.

Did this transaction go down? I am interested as well. I also have 16" SE Alloys from a 97. Will your bling-bling wheels accomodate the 4x4 hubs on my Pathy?

I have about 124K miles on mine, along with a significant passenger side exhaust manifold crack/leak. I get about 14.3 mpg in the city. I noticed a significant improvement when I removed my roof rack, and an insignificant improvement when I removed my spare tire and swing gate off the rear. I'm hoping to see an improvement once I finally get the dough to replace that exhaust manifold leak.

Well, I got it done at the new Bob Moore off I-35 in Norman, but it was from one of their courtesy card things they sent me. I just called them, told them I had a card and scheduled an appointment. They are doing them through the end of the month. They never asked for my card....even if they ask to see your card you could just tell them you left it at home or something. Unfortunately, last time I checked there are no available headers for R50's. Local shops won't do custom jobs either because they know about the infamous usually-seized Nissan studs.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I don't really know what any of that stuff even is though. I mean....what is a "thermal wax element"? The tires are worn and the belts probably need to be replaced. The other stuff I'm still skeptical of. You guys know much more about these cars than I do, so what other things from that list (specifically) should be done?? I have to get this beast into tip-top shape before my baby comes. This is my old lady's daily driver and she'll be hauling around the lil' dude in it so it needs to be as close to perfect as reasonably possible.

When I got my 97 at 120,000 miles the first thing I did was remove the OEM step rails. They were both badly rusted. Personally, I like the look of the Pathy without them. But I am not an off-roader.

Hey guys, I took advantage of Nissan's lovely "Absolutely Free 100-Point Spectacular Courtesy Inspection Check-Up" at the brand new dealership here in Okie. As could be predicted, they found quite a few things that need to be fixed/replaced. I know very little about cars, so I'd like to know what out of these things is legit and what is bogus. Also, anything you can tell me about the parts, replacement, costs, etc etc would be greatly appreciated. Here is what they gave me: -Thermal Wax Pellet/Element - $421 -Tires, BF Goodrich - $653.72 -Valve Cover leaking oil - $556.16 -Belts cracking - $145 -LEFT CV Axle Boot - $270 -RIGHT CV Axle Boot - $270 -Coolant Flush - $135 -Rear Main - $1060 -Oil Flush - $125 -Fuel Induction - $155 -Rear Differential Service - $95 -Front Differential Service - $95 What's funny is that they didn't mention anything about the loud as hell, annoying passenger side exhaust manifold leak. What does all the stuff on that list mean? Besides the obvious fluid flushes, tires, etc. P.S. The whip is a 97 SE 4WD with about 124,000 miles. Unfortunately, I got the car with 120,000 so it doesn't qualify for the exhaust manifold recall/TSB.

Just got this message from RockAuto....I'm sure most of you have seen it before: "Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you. Your discount code is: 491703417827 The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices, and there's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks. This discount code expires on November 7, 2006; so don't wait! " I figured some of you might want to use this code. I know I will be using it soon.....'bout to order me some chrome bumper trim pieces and passenger side exhaust manifold (infamous R50 problem). Anyone that gets a code in the future can post it up here so we can always get Rock Auto discounts. Boo yah!

From what I can see, my leather was glued on......I still don't know if that's OEM-style or if the previous owner did a ghetto-self-fix job. I tried to re-glue the leather back on and just made a big nasty mess so I went ahead and ordered a new leather wrapped knob assembly (including the buttons) from the stealership.....$129.....I actually thought it was going to be hella more expensive so I guess I should be satisfied. I still feel a slight pain in my rectum though... :sniff:

Can someone PLEASE just look at your auto shifter and tell me if it is actually stitched on or (appears to be) glued on?? My leather has been slowly peeling off and is now flapping in the wind. I need to either glue it back on or find a replacement for it. Thanks, homies.

The leather on my leather-wrapped auto shift knob (with OD button) is coming off. It looks like it was glued on as opposed to actually stitched together. Is this something that the previous owner did, or do the OEM shift knobs have the leather glued on?? Also, what options are available for replacement shifters? I can't find the OEM replacement on Rock Auto or anywhere else. Thanks.

Yeah, I decided not to go with the custom bored Denali rims. They look nice, but the custom bore job makes me uneasy. Haha..I have long thought that I would be one of the only dudes on this board that is more interested in looks since it is, in fact, the OFF ROAD Association for Pathys. Dubs do look nice....however, I am with the guys that don't like the low-pro look on SUVs...especially a Pathy. The "dubs on blades" look is more suited to Escalades, Suburbans, Yukons, etc. Believe me, I don't like ricey or ugly or ridiculous looking @!*%. I still think that polished 17's would look hella clean on my white R50. Guess I will keep looking.... I should post up some pics so you guys can see my "rig".

Well.....I don't consider myself a wheeler or a poser. Like I said before...I don't offroad. I've just never had an interest in it. I'd rather spend the money to make my cars (trucks/SUVs) look nice. So, I guess these Denali rims are about as cheap as bling is likely to come.

Where are you guys getting your rims from?!?!?!?! I'm talking flashy, bling-bling, aesthetically-pleasing rims.....a la Discount Tire Direct, Tire Rack, or 1010 Tires.

Thanks for the prompt responses. Yeah, the guy wants $300 bucks for all four wheels......they're in decent shape. Like I said earlier, I'm worried about the quality of them since the centers have been bored out though.

What issues will I run into from putting GMC Denali rims on my Pathy? The rims are 17x7 and have the same bolt pattern, but the offest is +18mm (versus +40mm for my R50). I'm assuming, of course, that I won't have any other fitment issues, like the wheel not fitting over the hub or something. EDIT: The seller says the the centers have been bored out to fit a Nissan Hardbody. I searched and searched and only came up with people pointing out that one must be mindful of the offset/backspacing, but not actually mentioning if wheels with different offsets would work or the issues involved with changing it up. Also, do you think I'll need hubcentric adapters? The fact that the centers are bored out is worrisome to me. No, I do not take it offroad. The wheels are purely for show. Mmmmm...chrome!

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I'm thinking it would be easier to send these 5000's back to 4x4parts and get some that are made for the 97 Pathys..... I'm kind of bothered by the fact that they advertise the 5000's as being able to fit on my car. Guess I'll start on the front suspension while I wait on a solution to this issue......

I am trying to install my Rancho RS5000 rear shocks (Rancho part number: RS5116) and they don't fit. The mounting area is too narrow compared to the OEM shocks. At first I thought the guys at www.4x4parts.com sent me the wrong ones. When I questioned Rancho technical support they confirmed that they are the wrong shocks for my 97 SE and said that they don't make a 5000 series for this year Pathy. He said the ones I have are for the Frontier/Xterra. I KNOW some of you guys have 5000s on your 97's, so what's the deal? Did you guys just leave the shock installed with the extreme left-to-right movement, or did you install some kind of rubber or nylon spacer in there to keep everything tight??? :help: